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10-12-2013, 06:34 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: McKinney, Texas
Posts: 10
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Canopy Mistake
Ok, I've messed up! I drilled the front latch hole (for C-409) through the canopy frame and into the instrument panel (F-403). The problem is I managed to align the hole exactly with the nutplate that attaches the fwd top skin (F-421). Anyone have any clever ideas how I can get myself out of this mess? I might be able to use a thin stop nut instead of the nutplate but I doubt it. In any case the screw and nut will interfere with the nylon block (C-410). I've included a few pictures to show my predicament.
Brad, McKinney TX
__________________
AcroBoy
Brad
McKinney, Tx
RV-4 still not done after 24 years but getting close!
Dynon Skyview w/ Autopilot, ADS-B, MGL Comm
ECI Titan OX-360 w/Pmag, Rotec TBI, Catto 3-blade
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10-12-2013, 11:32 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: West Fargo, ND
Posts: 1,073
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Move the nut plate.
__________________
Derek Hoeschen
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-9A #92103 - N803DK
G3X, Superior XO-320, Dual Pmags, Catto 3B
www.mykitlog.com/dbro172/
1974 Bellanca Super Viking - N16AW - Flying
RV-8 #83565 - N184DK - building
1968 Mooney M20C - N6801N - Sold
1956 C-182 - N744W - Sold
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10-13-2013, 01:26 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Gilbert AZ
Posts: 414
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Or.....
Swap the nut plate for one with both rivets on one side.....it looks (might be the angle) that the hole will only interfere with the bottom portion of the nut plate.
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Jeremy
ATP, CFI, CFII
RV-7 N424JD KCHD
EAA Tech Counselor
2017 Bronze Lindy
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10-13-2013, 05:11 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Winston-Salem, N.C.
Posts: 1,213
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Leave it
I think you will be fine. On mine, I installed a phenolic block about 1/4" thick on the forward side that the pin fits snuggly into, but I believe it could just as easily be installed on the AFT side as there is quite a bit of room between the canopy frame and the panel. Any extra pin length can be trimmed off, as it doesn't need to be that long, and actually causes problems with the forward skin panel interference. I believe many others have done the same. I also put a microswitch on the forward side that is contacted by the pin when fully closed, which extinguishes a bright red LED indicating the canopy is fully locked.
__________________
Bill E.
RV-4/N76WE
8A7 / Advance NC
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10-13-2013, 08:27 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 1,024
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Do away with the nut plate. Make your block out of delrin and just drill a hole so you can use the block as a substitute for the nut plate. You don't even need to thread it since it will act as a self locking nut. Just drill the hole undersize for the screw and screw it in.
That will also help hold the block in place.
You could even put number 4 screws where the rivet holes are to fill them in and hold the block even more firmly.
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Steve Formhals
A&P, Tech Counselor & Flight Advisor
RV3B
RV8
Last edited by sf3543 : 10-13-2013 at 08:29 AM.
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10-13-2013, 09:25 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: McKinney, Texas
Posts: 10
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Thanks for all the great ideas. I will probably go with Steve's idea of using the block as my nut plate. I figure I can always helicoil it if the plastic starts to wear. As far as I can tell there isn't room for any kind of nut plate. I had thought of trying a pk-7 clip nut since it might be slightly thinner. No matter which way I go, even the screw must be very short in order not to interfere with the shaft. The idea of using the block on the aft side is definitely worth considering as well as long a I penetrate the panel with enough margin.
__________________
AcroBoy
Brad
McKinney, Tx
RV-4 still not done after 24 years but getting close!
Dynon Skyview w/ Autopilot, ADS-B, MGL Comm
ECI Titan OX-360 w/Pmag, Rotec TBI, Catto 3-blade
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10-14-2013, 07:48 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Freericksburg, VA
Posts: 624
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On mine I just modified the nylon block to fit around the offending nut plate. Ground clearance with dremel tool, etc.
If the nut plate and installed screw don't prevent the canopy latch rod from fully engaging you have no problem. I'd do this before going the helical, tapping the nylon block route. Works fine on my airplane this way.
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Richard Bibb
RV-4 N144KT
Fredericksburg, VA
KEZF
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10-14-2013, 08:13 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: fort myers fl
Posts: 949
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i just did away with the block and used a .125 or .250 inch aluminum doubler on the panel instead.
bob burns
rv-4 N82RB
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10-14-2013, 09:15 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: AOTP
Posts: 192
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Add me to the list of people that carved a cavity in the holddown block to clear the nutplate.
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Nauga
2004 RV-4
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10-14-2013, 04:33 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nauga
Add me to the list of people that carved a cavity in the holddown block to clear the nutplate.
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Me as well,,
And in addition to modifying the block with a dremel to snug up against the nut plate,, I also cut the block in half, and have equal portions of the block on both sides of the panel.
And, I also have a "special" screw for that hole, in that it is trimmed very short, and does not protrude beyond the nut-plate. Another one of those "custom-features" for my airplane 
__________________
Derrick L. Aubuchon
RV4 (Flying, approx 900hrs)
Tacoma Narrows Airport (TIW)
dlaubuchon@gmail.com
( 2020 dues paid)
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