|
-
POSTING RULES

-
Donate yearly (please).
-
Advertise in here!
-
Today's Posts
|
Insert Pics
|

10-02-2013, 07:59 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: KSLC
Posts: 4,021
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mile High Relic
My first tip would be to read VAF for hours and hours, including all the discussions on Gross Weight for the RV-6, along with all the other classic RV debates.
My second tip would be to take your time. It takes time to discover much of what you don't know about this aircraft. 6 months is by no means too long to search for the right RV-6.
My third tip would be to find one or two trusted advisors who are specifically knowledgeable of RVs, and the RV-6 in particular, and talk to them a lot, Internet opinions are pretty easy to come by.
I purchased a 1115 lb RV-6 with an 1800 lb gross weight (says so right on the data plate) and it flies great. It is almost perfect for my mission. IM me if you want to chat about the experience.
None of these are actually "inspection" tips, but hopefully that isn't too much thread drift.
|
I too, have been around this gross weight debate for around 20 years now. Mine was set at 1850 lbs. gross, and for good reasons. There are a lot of builders who have. If the data plate is much lower than 1800 lbs, I probably wouldn't purchase it. There are of course, the no frills light weights, with sparce interiors and wooden props. But I have to have a constant speed prop. It weighs more, but performs much better, unless you need maximum race speed like Bob Axsom. He'll just have to nurse the sluggish takeoff, once he switches. My 1850 Gross weight C/S equipped plane, could beat those wooden props in climb, and cruise.......any day!
Note: In the old days, the Van's way of doing things, was light and simple. The gross weights reflected that principle. I don't care to putter around the airport in a lightweight simple aircraft. My 6A performed as an excellent cross country machine. Leather seats, two axis auto-pilot, and a constant speed prop.
|

10-03-2013, 10:41 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 150
|
|
Sluggish takeoff? Compared to what? I have a 3-blade catto and there is nothing sluggish about it's performance in any stage of flight. You will get better climb with a CS prop, but my 6 climbs great without one. I seriously doubt you'll get better cruise than the catto. The real benefit I see is for aerobatics and slowing the plane down, but there is additional maintenance, complexity and cost associated with it. I agree on the gross weight though, from what I understand the gross weight for the 7 was set based on experience flying higher gross weights on the 6.
Quote:
Originally Posted by L.Adamson
I too, have been around this gross weight debate for around 20 years now. Mine was set at 1850 lbs. gross, and for good reasons. There are a lot of builders who have. If the data plate is much lower than 1800 lbs, I probably wouldn't purchase it. There are of course, the no frills light weights, with sparce interiors and wooden props. But I have to have a constant speed prop. It weighs more, but performs much better, unless you need maximum race speed like Bob Axsom. He'll just have to nurse the sluggish takeoff, once he switches. My 1850 Gross weight C/S equipped plane, could beat those wooden props in climb, and cruise.......any day!
Note: In the old days, the Van's way of doing things, was light and simple. The gross weights reflected that principle. I don't care to putter around the airport in a lightweight simple aircraft. My 6A performed as an excellent cross country machine. Leather seats, two axis auto-pilot, and a constant speed prop.
|
|

10-03-2013, 05:12 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Posts: 3,932
|
|
Don't bother arguing with Larry... When it comes to constant speed props and higher gross weights, his mind is firmly made up.
Unless you're qualified to be making the calculations yourself to confirm the full effect of the increase in gross weight, don't be assuming that just because it says on the data plate that you can carry 1800lb in your -6 that that's the end of the story. Consider carefully where that extra 200lb will go, and what effect it will have on performance.
__________________
Rob Prior
1996 RV-6 "Tweety" C-FRBP (formerly N196RV)
|

10-04-2013, 07:37 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 150
|
|
What is it about the design of the 7 tha allows it to have a higher gross weight than the 6? The 2nd hand information I have is that the gear legs are the limiting factor in both, but they both have the same gear legs. I guess we're getting a little off-topic here unless the poster is deciding between a 6 and a 7.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowflake
Don't bother arguing with Larry... When it comes to constant speed props and higher gross weights, his mind is firmly made up.
Unless you're qualified to be making the calculations yourself to confirm the full effect of the increase in gross weight, don't be assuming that just because it says on the data plate that you can carry 1800lb in your -6 that that's the end of the story. Consider carefully where that extra 200lb will go, and what effect it will have on performance.
|
|

10-04-2013, 07:40 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Posts: 3,932
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by bjohnson1234
What is it about the design of the 7 tha allows it to have a higher gross weight than the 6?
|
It's a different airplane. Not completely and totally different, but different enough, in the critical areas, that Van is confident marking it as 1800 gross.
__________________
Rob Prior
1996 RV-6 "Tweety" C-FRBP (formerly N196RV)
|

10-04-2013, 09:12 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 150
|
|
Make sure you look behind the panel. Are the wires neatly organized with proper strain relief, etc..? Make sure you understand how the bus(es) have been configured, fused, etc... Most RVs have a single alternator so it's a fairly simple system. A read through aeroelectric is a good place to start before you look at the plane.
Watch http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=2149054014001 to learn about compression and oil consumption myths
Quote:
Originally Posted by trevlac8918
Greetings,
I'm looking for some tips on inspecting an RV6 for purchase.
Is there anything I should particularly ask an owner? (obvious questions will be inherent to buying any aircraft) I'm asking specifically to RV6's
Are there any recurring issues or issues during a build that would cause problems for the aircraft?
Is there a typical problem (area), while building, that most people have trouble with and needs re-work?
I guess any other quirks someone who has built or is building or owns, that a prospective buyer should look out for.
Any help is appreciated.
|
|

10-12-2013, 08:46 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Winnfield louisiana
Posts: 25
|
|
First buyer!
First do a tittle serch for leans..and be really good if you can find a quick build, no slosh at all in tanks.. ( nightmare) .. Reputable builder.. No old eci cylinders! Check serial numbers on them, good commpretion,under 1000hrs,the quick build will solve a lot of your build build problems.. And worth every penny.. All depending on how much you wanna spend also., could go on and on but tahrs a good start.. 
|

10-12-2013, 09:43 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Shell Knob, MO
Posts: 119
|
|
Read Van's Service Bulletins
I began looking at the -6's. I found that the gussets on the landing gear and gussets on both floor mounted and overhead rudder pedals were already included in the -7's.
Van's service bulletins helped me ask some of the right questions when I went shopping.
__________________
Bud K
N682TT RV-7
Legal Eagle - Flying
FFR Roadster (sold)
|
| Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:24 AM.
|