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10-04-2013, 10:39 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Douglas Flat, CA
Posts: 589
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLDSAM
Other than the cool factor, why not use a plain open end wrench?
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And is the coolness factor a constant? Hmmm...
Thanks, Bob K.
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Bob Kuykendall
HP-24 kit sailplane
EAA Technical Counselor
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10-04-2013, 11:40 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Peachtree City Ga
Posts: 56
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I used a crow foot wrench/socked held the rod end with an open end wrench, worked great.
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Gregory Targonski
Peachtree City GA
RV-9A Flying as of September 12, 2013
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10-04-2013, 01:05 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Kalamazoo, Mi
Posts: 27
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hey just think what it would have cost if you had snap on make that for you. 
i have had to make new tools out of what i had alot cheaper to make them and buy a new one 
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James Longstreet
little toot biplane built and flew for 10yr-Sold
Bearhawk- project - Sold
RV-7 - Tail kit
skybolt-project
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10-05-2013, 12:26 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 2,125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Kuykendall
And is the coolness factor a constant? Hmmm...
Thanks, Bob K.
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Now that's funny right there Bob!
But no, its not a constant. If its a snap on, you divide the length of the wrench (in mm) by the angle of the bend in the handle (in radians) and apply that number to...oh never mind...lets just call cool a constant!
Crows foot and a home-made bearing holder that my next door neighbor has is what I used when I built and switched to an 8 tail. But I can't get in there when he's gone, so I need those specialty tools (that's what I'm gonna tell my wife anyway!)
Cheers,
Bob
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10-05-2013, 09:47 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,346
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I'm sure there is already a tool out there that would work, it's just a matter of finding out what it was originally intended for. The box of tools I inherited from my auto mechanic father includes a lot of ? tools that were for some special purpose. Among them are offset distributor wrenches, belt tensioning adapters, etc. such as this, which would probably work if it was 9/16":
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KD-Tools-325...437278&vxp=mtr
or this, with a cut:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/vintage-SNAP...51129738704%26
so who out there knows what tool is like the snap-on s8681, but with a 3/8" drive?
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Mike W
Venice, FL
RV-6A. Mattituck TMX O-360, FP, GRT Sport EFIS, L3 Lynx NGT-9000
N164WM
N184WM reserved (RV-8)....finishing kit in progress. Titan IOX-370
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10-05-2013, 10:15 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Marion IA
Posts: 1,095
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dumb question
I'm not flying yet, so forgive me if this is a dumb question. When you all are checking the jam nuts, are you first removing the control surface?
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Dave Gribble VAF #232
Building RV-9A N149DG (slider, IO-320, IFR)
Restored and Flying Beech Super III N3698Q
Marion IA
Struggling with fiberglass
There is no sport equal to that which aviators enjoy while being carried through the air on great white wings." Wilbur Wright, 1905
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10-05-2013, 12:25 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,646
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IowaRV9Dreamer
I'm not flying yet, so forgive me if this is a dumb question. When you all are checking the jam nuts, are you first removing the control surface?
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It's a bit easier with them off, Dave, but it can be done with them on. The trickiest part is hold the rod end square whille you're tightening the jam nut. Harder to do with it's inserted into the HS hinge. As an aside, I used blue loctite when I first torqued them and haven't had any loosening issues. Blue loctite is pretty strong.
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Steve M.
Ellensburg WA
RV-9 Flying, 0-320, Catto
Donation reminder: Jan. 2021
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10-05-2013, 12:45 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battle Ground
Posts: 480
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Back to the rudder
This discussion is excellent timing for my build as I am finishing mounting my tail. I have written down several items to double check. One question that I have concerns the rudder.
When the aircraft's rudder was damaged by the wind, the rudder stop was ripped from the aircraft. A few folks have mentioned wind damaged rudders. It seems prudent to inspect the rudder spar and the VS spar. That is a lot of force transmitted through the rudder horn into the spar and it's hinge points.
Please do not interpret this as speculation on an accident. It is not. Just trying to further my knowledge.
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Scott
RV-7 N818BG (flying)
Bearhawk Patrol (building)
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10-05-2013, 01:18 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Townsend, Montana
Posts: 3,179
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I don't know the "normal" procedure, BUT when I do my tail group inspection.
I do everything from the tail strobe to the baggage bulkhead. If I try to do just a portion, I'll most likely forget something. so it' all or nothing for me.
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Retired Dam guy. Life is good.
Brian, N155BKsold but bought back.
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10-05-2013, 01:19 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
Posts: 5,686
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IowaRV9Dreamer
I'm not flying yet, so forgive me if this is a dumb question. When you all are checking the jam nuts, are you first removing the control surface?
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Absolutely Not!
__________________
Walt Aronow, DFW, TX (52F)
EXP Aircraft Services LLC
Specializing in RV Condition Inspections, Maintenance, Avionics Upgrades
Dynamic Prop Balancing, Pitot-Static Altmeter/Transponder Certification
FAA Certified Repair Station, AP/IA/FCC GROL, EAA Technical Counselor
Authorized Garmin G3X Dealer/Installer
RV7A built 2004, 1700+ hrs, New Titan IO-370, Bendix Mags
Website: ExpAircraft.com, Email: walt@expaircraft.com, Cell: 972-746-5154
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