7A elevator spar crack

[Bob Kuykendall]

Originally Posted by OLDSAM

Other than the cool factor, why not use a plain open end wrench?

And is the coolness factor a constant? Hmmm...

Thanks, Bob K.

[rivetshaver]

I used a crow foot wrench/socked held the rod end with an open end wrench, worked great.

[old pete]

hey just think what it would have cost if you had snap on make that for you.
i have had to make new tools out of what i had alot cheaper to make them and buy a new one

[rvmills]

Originally Posted by Bob Kuykendall

And is the coolness factor a constant? Hmmm...

Thanks, Bob K.

Now that's funny right there Bob!

But no, its not a constant. If its a snap on, you divide the length of the wrench (in mm) by the angle of the bend in the handle (in radians) and apply that number to...oh never mind...lets just call cool a constant!

Crows foot and a home-made bearing holder that my next door neighbor has is what I used when I built and switched to an 8 tail. But I can't get in there when he's gone, so I need those specialty tools (that's what I'm gonna tell my wife anyway!)

Cheers,
Bob

[fl-mike]

I'm sure there is already a tool out there that would work, it's just a matter of finding out what it was originally intended for. The box of tools I inherited from my auto mechanic father includes a lot of ? tools that were for some special purpose. Among them are offset distributor wrenches, belt tensioning adapters, etc. such as this, which would probably work if it was 9/16":
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KD-Tools-325...437278&vxp=mtr

or this, with a cut:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/vintage-SNAP...51129738704%26

so who out there knows what tool is like the snap-on s8681, but with a 3/8" drive?

[IowaRV9Dreamer]

I'm not flying yet, so forgive me if this is a dumb question. When you all are checking the jam nuts, are you first removing the control surface?

[alpinelakespilot2000]

Originally Posted by IowaRV9Dreamer

I'm not flying yet, so forgive me if this is a dumb question. When you all are checking the jam nuts, are you first removing the control surface?

It's a bit easier with them off, Dave, but it can be done with them on. The trickiest part is hold the rod end square whille you're tightening the jam nut. Harder to do with it's inserted into the HS hinge. As an aside, I used blue loctite when I first torqued them and haven't had any loosening issues. Blue loctite is pretty strong.

[sahrens]

This discussion is excellent timing for my build as I am finishing mounting my tail. I have written down several items to double check. One question that I have concerns the rudder.

When the aircraft's rudder was damaged by the wind, the rudder stop was ripped from the aircraft. A few folks have mentioned wind damaged rudders. It seems prudent to inspect the rudder spar and the VS spar. That is a lot of force transmitted through the rudder horn into the spar and it's hinge points.

Please do not interpret this as speculation on an accident. It is not. Just trying to further my knowledge.

[hydroguy2]

I don't know the "normal" procedure, BUT when I do my tail group inspection.

I do everything from the tail strobe to the baggage bulkhead. If I try to do just a portion, I'll most likely forget something. so it' all or nothing for me.

[Walt]

Originally Posted by IowaRV9Dreamer

I'm not flying yet, so forgive me if this is a dumb question. When you all are checking the jam nuts, are you first removing the control surface?

Absolutely Not!