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08-31-2013, 11:44 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 689
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Confusion riveting fuse skin
If you check out the build instructions page 8-10, top third of the page, paragraph that starts 'Pre Rivet..."
I am at this point in the build and I am confused about what they are asking. I know what I want to do, but I cannot ignore the little voice in the back of my head that says "Do it Vans way or you will pay!" We've all heard that voice and paid the price for not heeding it.
The confusion comes from this section:
Quote:
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"'Pre-rivet' the F-704H Center Section Side Plate (DWG 11) to the F-770 skin. A few key rivets are set at this time because they will be very difficult to reach when the skin is installed on the fuselage. These rivets are right next to the spar entry cut-out. Set the upper five rivets forward of the spar cut-out, leaving the lowest one open...it will be riveted when the skin goes on. Set the six rivets aft of the spar cut-out."
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Now look at this picture. Note that the fuse is upside down on the saw horse.
The holes with the black circles are the five that get pre-riveted to the F-770 skin now. The red circle is the "...lowest one...". Notice the proximity of that hole to that spar support behind it. I can see no reason to leave that hole open now. The chance of damaging the bar behind it is very high if I do it the way the instructions want. What is going to come back to bite me if I don't do it the way the instructions state?
__________________
Gil Brice
McKinney, TX EAA-1246
RV7 - Working on fuse, fuel, brakes etc...
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08-31-2013, 12:07 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Litchfield Park, AZ
Posts: 1,019
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You can pre revit the 704h to the side skin now but leave the bottom rivets open.
1) the bottom fuse skin also rivets to these locations and
2) DWG 28 shows to use LP4-3 because of no access to shoot/squeeze them.
__________________
Carlos in Arizona
EAA Chapter 538 www.chapters.eaa.org/eaa538
Wittman Tailwind W8 N53CH (built & sold)
Pazmany PL-1 N2029 (bought & sold)
RV7 - N537TC (reserved & building)
Emp, Wings & Fuse done - working on FWF
"The air is an extremely dangerous, jealous and exacting mistress. Once under the spell most lovers are faithful to the end, which is not always old age." - Winston Churchill
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08-31-2013, 01:02 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Olympia,WA
Posts: 210
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Gil
Like Carlos said the red circle will get a LP4-3 later on and the cleco on the left in your picture will get a solid rivet when the forward bottom skin gets attached. I have a note on my fuselage skin that I used an 8 there which is longer than the plans #28 specs. YMMV
Also maybe its just your picture angle but the outboard seat rib forward flange sits inside the 704 center section flange. Drawing #22 detail E.
__________________
Arnie Barros
VAF #1401
(N89269) reserved
"Seek to understand before trying to be understood"
Last edited by AlphaCharlieBravo : 08-31-2013 at 01:15 PM.
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08-31-2013, 01:52 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 689
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Got it! Thanks. I looked at the rivet call-out earlier and thought it was a 4-6. Having looked at it again I see that it is, in fact an LP4-3.
__________________
Gil Brice
McKinney, TX EAA-1246
RV7 - Working on fuse, fuel, brakes etc...
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09-28-2013, 09:12 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Murphy, NC
Posts: 535
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Thanks for the info, I was having the same confusion. I am assuming it is OK to use the driven rivet in the bottom hole aft of the spar cutout?
__________________
John Johnson
Murphy, NC
RV7
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09-28-2013, 10:41 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Lee's Summit, MO
Posts: 747
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Bottom rivet
I had a problem with my -8 build at this location. The spar reinforcing bar was so close to the back side of the skin that there was not room for the back of the blind rivet. I pulled the skin and doubler plate away from the spar and set a 470 with the shop head towards the outside of the airplane and the manufactured head towards the spar. The forward bottom skin will be more difficult to install with this rivet already placed, but I couldn't see any other way of setting a rivet in the bottom hole.
__________________
Robert Williams
Lee's Summit, MO
RV-8 - Empennage & Wings Done
Working on Fuse
O-360-A1A
1946 Cessna 120
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09-28-2013, 03:32 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Olympia,WA
Posts: 210
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Pilot28906
Yea,you are good to go with 470 rivets aft of the spar cutout on lower two holes.
__________________
Arnie Barros
VAF #1401
(N89269) reserved
"Seek to understand before trying to be understood"
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09-28-2013, 05:32 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Murphy, NC
Posts: 535
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Thanks for the clarification.
__________________
John Johnson
Murphy, NC
RV7
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12-23-2014, 09:14 AM
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Grand Marais
Posts: 33
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Riveting F-770 Forward Side Skin
The instructions are not very clear to me about riveting the side skins to the longerons on my RV-7A. On the rear fuse I riveted only the holes in between rivets to hold the F-773 skins in place. I then drilled 3 holes through F-770 and the longeron and plan to rivet those 6 (3 on each side) to hold the skins in place until I am ready to rivet on the top skins fore and aft. My plan then is to set all of the rivets in the cockpit area in between the forward top skin and the rear top skin. Am I correct in this plan or am I missing something? Thanks.
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10-03-2016, 10:33 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Launceston, Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 774
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Replace LP4-3 with MSP-42 at F-770 to F-772 to F-704H
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaAV8R
I had a problem with my -8 build at this location. The spar reinforcing bar was so close to the back side of the skin that there was not room for the back of the blind rivet. I pulled the skin and doubler plate away from the spar and set a 470 with the shop head towards the outside of the airplane and the manufactured head towards the spar. The forward bottom skin will be more difficult to install with this rivet already placed, but I couldn't see any other way of setting a rivet in the bottom hole.
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I had the same issue on my -7, however I didn't realize it was a problem until I had already riveted much of the F-770 in place. It turns out that the thickness of the sheet stack here is right on the upper limit of the grip length for an MSP-42 Monel rivet. This rivet was still slightly too long, so I simply ground down the bulb a fraction, and sure enough, it worked perfectly. Hopefully this may be of help to someone in the future.
Tom.
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