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08-30-2013, 07:59 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Garden City, Tx
Posts: 5,145
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This most certainly won't be the last time you build it exactly to the plans and then look at it for a while saying "That just won't work!"
There are some (several) points in the plans that need some updating, but if you'll do a search on the forums here when you run into one of those spots, odds are good you'll find the solutions discussed in here.
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Greg Niehues - SEL, IFR, Repairman Cert.
Garden City, TX VAF 2020 dues paid 
N16GN flying 700 hrs and counting; IO360, SDS, WWRV200, Dynon HDX, 430W
Built an off-plan RV9A with too much fuel and too much HP. Should drop dead any minute now.
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08-30-2013, 09:32 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,692
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As has already been stated, the plans are wrong. Make a part that will work per the intent.
In regards to the internal stop, make your own choice and remember that on the internet you can always find the answer you want to hear.
Pics of my rudder stops
__________________
Bill Pendergrass
ME/AE '82
RV-7A: Flying since April 15, 2012. 850 hrs
YIO-360-M1B, mags, CS, GRT EX and WS H1s & A/P, Navworx
Unpainted, polished....kinda'... Eyeballin' vinyl really hard.
Yeah. The boss got a Silhouette Cameo 4 Xmas 2019.
Last edited by rzbill : 08-30-2013 at 03:29 PM.
Reason: added link
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08-30-2013, 10:16 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Marion IA
Posts: 1,095
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Thanks guys - I did a quick search but somehow missed the point that the plans are WRONG. My stops as-is may not be ablle to be used. I'm going to look in the scrap bin and see if I have anything that will work.
Are the internal stops even still available? I like the idea of pressing against the big bar rather than the rudder spar.
Anybody with a flying -9 able to measure the horizontal distance between elevator and rudder? I think it will be a bit under an inch, which seems close.
__________________
Dave Gribble VAF #232
Building RV-9A N149DG (slider, IO-320, IFR)
Restored and Flying Beech Super III N3698Q
Marion IA
Struggling with fiberglass
There is no sport equal to that which aviators enjoy while being carried through the air on great white wings." Wilbur Wright, 1905
Last edited by IowaRV9Dreamer : 08-30-2013 at 10:17 AM.
Reason: typos
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08-30-2013, 11:24 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LettersFromFlyoverCountry
Easiest way to do the rudder stop is attach it like you've got it (with clecoes, of course), then take a file and just keep filing until it hits the stops, then just keep filing until you get the proper limit angle as indicated in the instructions.
Same deal with the elevator stop.
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I would do it like Bob suggests. You really want to make sure the stop is flush against the horn. I think I set mine so that there was about 1.5-2" between the rudder and trailing edge of the elevators when hard over.
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Andy Compton, PhD EE
RV-10 - #41414 (building)
RV-9A - N643AC (built,flying,sold,missed)
My blood and sweat, the Wifey's tears
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08-30-2013, 11:48 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Marion IA
Posts: 1,095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lionclaw
I think I set mine so that there was about 1.5-2" between the rudder and trailing edge of the elevators when hard over.
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Vans gives a measurment like 46 1/8" from rudder trailing edge to elevator trailing edge for 35 degree throw. If I position it there I get less than an inch of clearance. I think we are allowed to have rudder throw as low as 30 degrees, so maybe I'll see what that works out to in terrms of gap between elevator and rudder.
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Dave Gribble VAF #232
Building RV-9A N149DG (slider, IO-320, IFR)
Restored and Flying Beech Super III N3698Q
Marion IA
Struggling with fiberglass
There is no sport equal to that which aviators enjoy while being carried through the air on great white wings." Wilbur Wright, 1905
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08-30-2013, 12:47 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hopkinsville, KY
Posts: 957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhester
I found this while building my early 70172 RV7A. If you build them per the plans they will be wrong. I used mine to measure from to make the second ones correctly. I looked at the one on the company plane while at SnF and found theirs looked just like my corrected ones. I don't understand why they won't fix the plans to show the correct way to make them. There has been a lot of rudders damaged from these stops not extending far enough. Ill try to get a picture today.
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Got those pictures, This is the way they should be made and the way they look on the factory plane (not per the plans):

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Bobby Hester - Builder/Pilot/A&P
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
N857BH RV7A XP-O360 - Garmin G3X ADS-B IN/OUT 2020 Compliant
Web site: http://www.newtech.com/bobbyhester/RVSite.htm
Dec. 2019 VAF donator - alot better than any magazine subscription
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08-30-2013, 04:31 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Marion IA
Posts: 1,095
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Thanks Bobby and all who posted. Your pictures made the difference. The rudder stops came out super solid.
I ended up adding some metal to the underside of the stops as I didn't have enough material to make new stops and I really wanted to get this done tonite. It is the last "thing" before disassembling the airframe and letting the wife's car back in the garage
I ended up with 35 degrees in each direction, measured with an angle finder and some homemade paper triangles. I have 1 3/8" clearance between the elevator and rudders, and 47 3/8" from rudder trailing edge to elevator trailing edge. Doesn't match the numbers in the manual that well, but they are probably just as wrong as the rudder stop on DWG 27A.
OK - now for a rant. Please ignore as needed:
If "everyone" knows the rudder stop drawing is NG on DWG 27A, and if it is different on the FACTORY PLANE, why doesn't Van's either:
a) revise the drawing with a correction
b) revise the drawing with a note "This is incorrect"
c) Issue a revision note / construction bulletin online
I know a bit about engineering... and what ECOs cost... but there is also right and wrong. I didn't need a new dimensioned drawing, but an isometric of the new part would have helped. It can't be that hard for them. This is one of the few areas that I've found where the plans are flat out wrong (not just with missing info). On the opposite side, I bet they sell a lot of rudder stop material!
Whew, rant over. Thanks for listening.
__________________
Dave Gribble VAF #232
Building RV-9A N149DG (slider, IO-320, IFR)
Restored and Flying Beech Super III N3698Q
Marion IA
Struggling with fiberglass
There is no sport equal to that which aviators enjoy while being carried through the air on great white wings." Wilbur Wright, 1905
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08-30-2013, 05:12 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ao.frog
I had to fabricate another pair of stops, because the orginal ones allowed the rudder hit the elevators.
I riveted my new ones on top of the orginals. That way, the new ones hit the correct place on the rubberbar.
The left and right rudder-deflection met the requirement in the manual with these new stops.
On my second -7, we ran into exactly the same problem and we've solved it the same way.
The same mod has another Norwegian -7 builder done.

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Why have those cable connections to the rudder been done that way? That will introduce a twisting moment in the corner of the rudder bar that it may not be designed to take. If those washers are ever orientated with the sheared edge against the bar that`s not good a good situation. When is a failure most likely to occur if it does? The right side on the take off roll? Ouch...
I`m building a 7 with no bushing in the rudder bar and the drawing clearly shows a direct cable connection. Just my opinion, but that doesn`t look right to me at all. Is the 9 drawing the same as the 7?
Last edited by hayabusa : 08-31-2013 at 05:02 AM.
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09-01-2013, 08:04 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: St. Paul, MN.
Posts: 4,792
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You guys know those bolts on the bar aren't torqued down, right? Those bolts move freely. Same as the bolts on the connection at the pedals.
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09-01-2013, 11:01 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fort Myers, Florida
Posts: 15
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I found the plans to be correct in this case. The rudder deflection is adjusted with the position of the rod end bearings in the rudder. I found that moving the rudder closer to the VS will decrease the rudder deflection and give the desired amount of clearance between the rudder and elevators. The stock stops worked for me.
__________________
Tom Kracmer
Fort Myers, Florida, KFMY
RV-7A Tip-up
Flying
2020 Donor
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