Flaring tool operation....

[TS Flightlines]

Larry, I use a Rigid RFT37 that I bought from Tom Brink at GAHCO. works great, especially on stainless.
Tom

[Sig600]

I've found the cutting tool is important, don't smash down as you twist, go slow for a clean cut. The cheap Home Depot/Kobalt variety work as long as you GRADUALLY tighten down. Sharper is better though.

Then debur the inside, use a file to take off the edges on the outside, and a quick spin on the scotch bright wheel.

When flaring, tools vary how deep or proud to put the line to get a good seat on the collar. Some practice a few times you'll find it. My particular tool is dead flush.

As was mentioned, a drop of oil on the mandrel. I use marvel mystery air tool oil. Tighten down until you meet resistance, don't torque it down. Back off and voila!

[OLDSAM]

Ditto all the foregoing, emphasize all the advice not to overtighten (ask me how I know). I'd be willing to bet if you run the tube up to the depth stop next time, and stop when you feel the resistance, and see the tube wall lay against the outside of the recess, your outside diameter will not be too large, assuming you have a quality tool. I would be very leery of using flares where the tube was not set up against the depth stop.

[tkatc]

After doing a few flares yesterday using the advice on this forum, I have acquired the "feel" for that pressure everyone has mention but I failed to recognize on my own. It really is pretty fun to create nice flares.

I still have one question.... I check my flares against the AN fitting and they all match up nicely with the nipple but I have seen some that cover the entire nipple and some just shy of covering. In my mind they are all acceptable but I just wanted to run it past some experts.

[380mxc]

Tony,

There is a specification for flair diameter SAE J533 3/8 aluminum tube should be
.484 +.000 -.010 This can be checked with a dial caliper.