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  #11  
Old 07-25-2013, 07:57 AM
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rv9av8tr rv9av8tr is offline
 
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Location: Portland, OR
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The absolute KEY is keeping straight on the rivet. If you push ANY amount off the centerline of the rivet it will bend over. That's why a squeezer is best because you can see and control the geometry before & during the squeeze. Once you start hammering with the gun, that bucking bar can go any which-way if you aren't extremely careful. The gun AND the bucking bar have to be pushing very firmly on the rivet AND the head must be fully seated, then about 3-4 raps of the gun and presto, done.

It's "EZ", but you have to be in control of the geometry.
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  #12  
Old 07-25-2013, 08:01 AM
krw5927 krw5927 is offline
 
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Location: Wichita, KS
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Glad it all worked out. There is a technique to removing rivets that does not enlarge the hole - this would be a great skill to practice and master with the scrap pieces you mentioned.

When drilling out a rivet, do not drill all the way through it. Instead, start drilling on the manufactured head side, just deep enough to drill all the way through the rivet head and not the shank. Remove the drill and use the blunt end of the drill bit to pry/snap the head off. Then use a punch nearly the size of the hole, with a hammer, to knock the rest of the rivet out. Done properly the hole will not suffer any enlargement.

If a hole does become slightly enlarged, sometimes pre-squeezing a rivet just a tiny bit to make it fatter can help keep the shop head from folding over.

Finally, as you discovered here, drive from the manufactured head side whenever possible, and buck the shop head. No need to smash the bucking bar against the rivet when driving - the rivet gun will do the work. Just keep the bucking bar steady on the shop head side and all will be well.

Everyone struggles at the beginning - you're doing great. Keep at it and practice a lot. Ask lots of questions.
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  #13  
Old 07-25-2013, 05:48 PM
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eh_v8_tor eh_v8_tor is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Plattsville, Ontario
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Smile Drilling out rivets ...tip that helped me out.

Ditto to what the previous poster said on drilling out rivets. A great tool that I have that makes taking bad rivets out a breeze, is a spring loaded centre punch.... I think that's what you call it anyways. Get the smallest one you can find for the best results. I got mine from Busy Bee Tools in Ottawa, Canada.

You drill into the head of the rivet very carefully, so as not to be drilling the edge of the hole, almost to the point where the stem is being drilled. Be exactly centred with the drill bit, and take it slowly. I even use Beolube on the bit. The rivet will still be firmly in place, but the head will be weakened so that the punch will take it out.

This spring loaded centre punch just works by applying hand pressure to it. It stores up spring pressure, then snap, it kicks as if it has been hit by a hammer.

Remember to back up your work with a bucking bar next to the shop head (but not covering the shop head), so that the jolt doesn't damage the material that you are removing the rivet from. If the head breaks off, and the stem gets kicked out, then you are in business, and the hole has not been enlarged. If the head doesn't break off, then drill very slightly deeper and try the punch and bucking bar again.

I'm sure there must be some online how-to videos on you tube or through through the EAA that will help you out with your technique, both for riveting , and rivet removal.

Happy building,


Steve Wolfe
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  #14  
Old 07-25-2013, 10:28 PM
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Go as slow as you can with pneumatic squeezer and keep straight. Slow slow slow! I had a similar issue. If the pneumatic reaches use it.
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  #15  
Old 07-26-2013, 01:38 PM
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Sooner or later you find a spot where only that little steel bar will fit. For those times, I tape my tungsten bar to the steel one to give it some mass. I also use small strips of gorilla tape on the edges of whichever bar is used to prevent marring of the web or flange area. Gorilla tape rates up there with Boelube.
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  #16  
Old 07-26-2013, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock View Post
Sooner or later you find a spot where only that little steel bar will fit. For those times, I tape my tungsten bar to the steel one to give it some mass. I also use small strips of gorilla tape on the edges of whichever bar is used to prevent marring of the web or flange area. Gorilla tape rates up there with Boelube.
HUM.....would that be the deck plates on the fuse....
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  #17  
Old 07-26-2013, 07:22 PM
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Default tight spot

Not yet for me but thanks for the warning.
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Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #18  
Old 08-02-2013, 01:12 PM
Daniel S. Daniel S. is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tegwilym View Post
We have some good, fancy tungsten bars.
I've cussed at some point in every part of this project. By the time I'm done though, I'll be a expert plane builder...or a sailor!
Dude. Get used to it during every "section" of the build you will be facing a arch nemesis. Make him your freind & learn from him... proceed slowly & take your time Think before doing... follow the order in the plans. I just spent $70 buck in shipping to replace $30 worth of part... dumb me had this grand idea of drilling the aileron counterweight prior to clecoing the LE to the aileron skeleton. the holes curled around the counter weight tube & I had a nice twist in the aileron leading edge... dumb me!
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  #19  
Old 08-02-2013, 05:57 PM
tegwilym tegwilym is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel S. View Post
Dude. Get used to it during every "section" of the build you will be facing a arch nemesis. Make him your freind & learn from him... proceed slowly & take your time Think before doing... follow the order in the plans. I just spent $70 buck in shipping to replace $30 worth of part... dumb me had this grand idea of drilling the aileron counterweight prior to clecoing the LE to the aileron skeleton. the holes curled around the counter weight tube & I had a nice twist in the aileron leading edge... dumb me!

You got that right!
I'm finally calling myself a riveter after screwing up a bunch of them. I can now remove them is many cases, in about 5 minutes or less. Learning from mistakes and moving onward!

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