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  #1  
Old 01-21-2013, 02:53 PM
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Default What gap should I leave for paint on the cowling?

I'm done with rough fitting my cowling on the -9A. Now I want to sand down the edges for a perfect fit so I can start getting the hinge sections attached.

What sort of a gap between the top/bottom/sides should I leave for paint thickness?
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  #2  
Old 01-21-2013, 02:55 PM
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The thickness of a credit card.
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:57 PM
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A hacksaw blade or tongue depressor also work well. When I dropped off my RV-10 to get painted, there were several places that the painter wanted me to widen the gap a little more. I used a tongue depressor wrapped a sandpaper on my doors to get the proper gap.
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:04 PM
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I did about 1/16 inch on my RV9A and it worked out fine.
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:28 PM
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I used the wife's nail file / emory board. Just be sure to dispose of the evidence.
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  #6  
Old 01-22-2013, 05:36 AM
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As Reffeler stated, a hacksaw blade is the perfect thickness to allow for paint. Just see-saw it back and forth at the joint till it is an easy fit between the surfaces.
this method also assures a nice straight line between the upper and lower cowls.
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  #7  
Old 07-20-2013, 12:07 PM
instructor_bill instructor_bill is offline
 
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Default further advise sought

If I use the hacksaw method, should I leave the hinges attached and run the hacksaw blade back and forth towards the face of the hinge below?

Should I do this before or after the hinges have been epoxied and riveted?
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by instructor_bill View Post
If I use the hacksaw method, should I leave the hinges attached and run the hacksaw blade back and forth towards the face of the hinge below?

Should I do this before or after the hinges have been epoxied and riveted?
Before. Use the hacksaw as a measuring device when you make you initial cuts. You can always put it back in later to re-measure
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:09 PM
instructor_bill instructor_bill is offline
 
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Default okay, before rivet/epoxy

Now, only as a feeler guage or have others used the hacksaw in-situ to get an exact assembled gap?

Are there pros and cons to doing either way?

If I protect the hinge with colored electrical tape, I think I should be able to run the blade in assembled, then there's no chance of over-doing it. Has anybody done it this way?
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  #10  
Old 07-20-2013, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceh View Post
What sort of a gap between the top/bottom/sides should I leave for paint thickness?
1/16 or larger, but the exact size doesn't matter. It must be a consistent width to look good.
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