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07-11-2013, 10:54 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Shreveport, LA
Posts: 1,002
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with all the holes in a wing rib....
why not just secure the conduit for wire runs in/through one of the existing holes, rather than drilling a new hole for the conduit? Am I missing the obvious?
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07-11-2013, 11:00 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 78
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I think you can
I think you can use the lightening holes so long as the cabling doesn't interfere with your aileron brackets or pushrods. So you'd have to secure them pretty well. I just drilled the hole in the recommended location as I deburred my ribs. Only took a few seconds per and the corrugated tubing fits pretty snug (it was harder to pull that tubing through then it was to drill those holes).
John
Houston
RV-7 Wings
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07-11-2013, 04:01 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueflyer
why not just secure the conduit for wire runs in/through one of the existing holes, rather than drilling a new hole for the conduit? Am I missing the obvious?
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Yep... weight reduction! 
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07-11-2013, 06:46 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Shreveport, LA
Posts: 1,002
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I get it, heck I agree its not difficult, I just look at all those big holes already in the rib and wonder to myself why I need to route my cables through one of the places that there is no hole!
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07-11-2013, 09:19 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: lake charles, La.
Posts: 699
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I just drilled like a 5/32 hole next to an existing lightening hole and type wrapped my flex conduit inside the lightening hole, all done.
Bird
__________________
Bird
rv8 entire airframe at airport now, painting done, intersection and gear upper and lower fairings done, maybe order engine around first of year or before the next rate increase.
"to fly is a privilege that I am so thankful to God for"
http://www.mykitlog.com/tcb328/
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07-12-2013, 03:04 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Cumming, Georgia
Posts: 873
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Conduit runs
I likewise thought there was not a need to run more holes in the wing so I made small tabs bent 90 degrees and used two pop rivets per tab on every other rib and on the walk ribs only a tab on the outside two wing walk ribs. I ran them opposite so when I ran the conduit I could put slight tension on the conduit to keep it from sagging. Pictures are in the first building log pictures of the conduit can be seen in pictures 626 to 675.
I started with the idea to use the rigid blue but changed to the flexible black . Both at the Aviation Dept of Home Depot. The flex is strong enough to run a snake through if you have to pull a wire. I added 2 extra wires in the conduit for future extras like lighting off pyro techs
Jack Hunt
"Smilin' Jack"
__________________
Smilin' Jack & Anita Hunt
N507H RV7, KJZP Jasper, GA
EAA690
APRS/ WB4JKY
Retired Corporate Pilot CFI-AI, MEL
CE500, LRJT, HS25, C650, SBJT, CL60
Hunt Aviation, LLC.
Pilot Service, IPC's Biennials.
Comm Glider
Last edited by Smilin' Jack : 07-12-2013 at 03:14 AM.
Reason: Addition
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07-12-2013, 11:17 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Shreveport, LA
Posts: 1,002
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Well, I think I'll follow suit. I like it. Thanks.
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07-12-2013, 03:54 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
Posts: 2,247
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Today I fabricated some mounting tabs that I secured to the ribs with a single 1/8" pulled rivet. Only one #30 hole near the edge of the lightening hole in each rib (I've only done the outboard half so far).
The tabs are bent 90 degrees and used to zip-tie a polycarbonate shield tube for a T8 fluorescent lamp. You can get these in 4' lengths - perfect for the outboard end of the wing, leaving a gap at the aileron bellcrank inspection plate -- and 8', which can be cut for the inboard side. Plenty of room for wire and cable. I secured the tubing to the tabs with a dab of RTV and a zip tie.
I even put little 45 degree kinks in each end of the tab; one end rests against the stiffening ridge around the lightening hole, and the other is just a little extra insurance that the zip ties won't slip off (even though I also put a dab of RTV on them).
Pics here, if you want to see them. I think it's a pretty nice solution. Minimal drilling, only a couple ounces of weight, lots of room for wires and cables, and I can remove the bellcrank inspection plate to run wires if needed. I'll just secure the wires to keep them clear of the bellcrank and pushrods.
__________________
Dale
Omaha, NE
RV-12 # 222 N980KM "Screamin' Canary" (bought flying)
Fisher Celebrity (under construction)
Previous RV-7 project (sold)
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07-12-2013, 06:15 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Shreveport, LA
Posts: 1,002
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Dale, I like that too. That got me thinking. I could drill a hole in the rib and secure the tubing to the rib with safety wire. Just run the wire through the small hole drilled in the rib, then loop the wire around the tube a coupla time, twist, cut and voila.
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