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07-09-2013, 12:09 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: N. Yorkshire, England
Posts: 1,050
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Brian, thanks for that clarification. I did not see the converters mentioned, but I will look again.
Randle, your comments are practical and helpful. I am flying home on Friday but think the idea of tapping on the converters with the system powered up is a good one. With no bad joints in the wiring system I struggle to believe I made two in the fuel system, so do keep returning to the converters as the probable cause. However no one else is saying they have had them as a problem. Being in the UK a chat with Dynon is expensive also, but perhaps I can Skype them. In the end cheapest might be a new converter to see what introducing that does. The problem that is really hard to prove is a loose connection inside the tank. Perhaps next time I fly I should do lots of uncoordinated flying and see if that has an effect.
Thanks for the interest....its helpful. Steve.
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07-09-2013, 12:50 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,693
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Go to the Appendix 7.1 of the EMS-D120 Installation guide and you will see that the Dynon Freq to Voltage convertor needs to be supplied with 12 volts. You said 5v in an earlier post. Make sure it is 12.
(10 to 15v per document) Over 15 causes damage. Standard aircraft bus 12v is probably not good enough to keep these things stable.
I have mine powered by instrument quality regulated 12v out of my GRT EIS 4000. No Problems.
It outputs 0 to 5 volts back to the EIS input for gage reading.
__________________
Bill Pendergrass
ME/AE '82
RV-7A: Flying since April 15, 2012. 850 hrs
YIO-360-M1B, mags, CS, GRT EX and WS H1s & A/P, Navworx
Unpainted, polished....kinda'... Eyeballin' vinyl really hard.
Yeah. The boss got a Silhouette Cameo 4 Xmas 2019.
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07-10-2013, 09:27 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Atascosa, TX
Posts: 106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rzbill
the Dynon Freq to Voltage convertor needs to be supplied with 12 volts. You said 5v in an earlier post.
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This is the best thing I think you have to go off of so far, have you checked into it or talked with Dynon?
__________________
If you are 90% efficient, and your buddy who checks the 10% you missed is also 90% efficient, together you're 99% efficient.
RV-7A - empennage done minus glass
wings nearing completion
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07-10-2013, 09:34 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: N. Yorkshire, England
Posts: 1,050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randle
This is the best thing I think you have to go off of so far, have you checked into it or talked with Dynon?
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Randle, it will be getting the correct voltage, just my memory faulty there. I had a PM from another to say he had the same problem.
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07-10-2013, 10:42 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 1,499
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They really do need to have 12V, not 5V. I just looked at the schematic and they are regulated to 5V inside, so if you feed them 5V they will misbehave. Regulators need more input voltage than their output to regulate properly.
They can take "noisy" aircraft "12V" just fine. They are fully regulated inside as long as you give them at least 7V and less than 15 they should work. Like all Dynon equipment, they are designed to handle the >15V spikes that an aircraft bus sometimes has.
Otherwise I'm a bit stumped as well as how something could affect both units at once.
--Ian Jordan
Dynon Avionics
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07-10-2013, 10:51 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: N. Yorkshire, England
Posts: 1,050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dynonsupport
They really do need to have 12V, not 5V. I just looked at the schematic and they are regulated to 5V inside, so if you feed them 5V they will misbehave. Regulators need more input voltage than their output to regulate properly.
They can take "noisy" aircraft "12V" just fine. They are fully regulated inside as long as you give them at least 7V and less than 15 they should work. Like all Dynon equipment, they are designed to handle the >15V spikes that an aircraft bus sometimes has.
Otherwise I'm a bit stumped as well as how something could affect both units at once.
--Ian Jordan
Dynon Avionics
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Ian, they are certainly getting the supply from the aircraft bus, a very steady 14.6V. I just remembered they operated at 5V and could not remember where the voltage was dropped. So the supply voltage is a red herring.
So, have you not had other instances of symptoms as I described earlier. It happens on both tanks randomly. For a while it was only one tank, now both. No cross correlation. As I said before, another member here pm'd mme to say he had the same problem. Any simple tests I can do? Thanks.
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07-12-2013, 07:31 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Carson City NV
Posts: 550
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What i did
Hi All
In 2008, after I came back from Oshkosh I had the same issue with my capacitive sender?s .The repair was to cut large access holes in the rear baffles of both fuel tanks. Rewire the capacitive plates and replace the BNC connector, be sure to seal the wire ends with proseal and the BNC connector at the tank bulkhead. This procedure was omitted in the builder manual. The culprit for the inconsistent readings was fuel wicking up the wire and changing the capacitance. After enduring this repair procedure, I had 5 years of trouble free fuel readings, until now. My new system is exhibiting the same faults.
__________________
Dayton Murdock
VAF#408 RV4 N359DM Flying 1046 hrs 7/16/19
Builder Log
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07-14-2013, 02:15 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: N. Yorkshire, England
Posts: 1,050
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Dayton, I am pleased to hear I am not alone.
I just flew two legs, about 800 miles in total. The first leg both tanks behaved pretty well flawlessly. The second leg suddenly one tank dropped to about 27 litres, and then just before landing came back up to a correct reading of about 40. The other tank switched occasionally between zero and a correct reading.
I really would be pleased to hear something from Dynon.
Anyone else had the same problem?
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11-14-2014, 09:31 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Ardleigh, Essex, UK
Posts: 55
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Hi All,
I am the new owner of G-IKON, and still have this problem......did anyone get to the bottom of it please?
Neil
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