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  #1  
Old 07-07-2013, 11:52 AM
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SmittysRV SmittysRV is offline
 
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Default Canopy roll bar/frame height compare

I used the drawing below to determine the height of the canopy frame to the roll bar, which calls for the center of the canopy frame tube to be 3/8" above the roll bar top. But then I read this from the handbook:

Quote:
You should try to get the frame bow to be approximately 1/8-3/16" bigger than the roll bar, all the way around. The point on the roll bar that has the most curve (10 o'clock and 2 o'clock) should be a little larger (a full 3/16") than on the top or the sides.
Which one is correct?

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  #2  
Old 07-07-2013, 12:34 PM
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Smitty,

If you end up with 3/8 all around it's OK, you will end up using washers to fine tune the spacing of the windshield plexi so that it's even with the slider plexi. If you have the rough trimming of the windshield done, laying it in place may give you and idea of how close you are.
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  #3  
Old 07-07-2013, 03:38 PM
ka6dan ka6dan is offline
 
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The 1/8 - 3/16 is very confusing! Work to the 3/8". I know I had to replace the canopy fram due to trying to meet the smaller numbers. Of course it's difficult to verify the 3/8" dim. Do the best you can andexpect to make some adjustments after the big cut. The only way to be sure on frame adjustments is with the plastic is in place.

Don't sweat the canopy as mutch as some (I) did. You can make small frame adjustments after drilling the needed holes. I looked at a flying 9a recently. I know my finish is way better. You can do it!
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  #4  
Old 07-07-2013, 03:58 PM
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I got it close and then finished the canopy. With the canopy finished you can install it and then lay the front screen in place to get a good idea where you need to be. Then you can adjust by shorting the canopy side tubes to lower the canopy or use washers on the front screen to raise it. So the point is don't sweat it yet. It can be adjusted later.
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  #5  
Old 07-07-2013, 05:49 PM
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Thanks guys. I'm going to stick with the 3/8" gap for now. Just for grins, I put the canopy on to see the gap. I put a ruler above the plexiglass to cast a shadow on the tops of the roll bar and canopy frame. Looks pretty close.

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  #6  
Old 07-08-2013, 06:07 AM
RhodeIsland9 RhodeIsland9 is offline
 
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I just finished my canopy. I was confused also so I made the center top 3/8" and down around the sides 1/8". Now the top center is about 1/4" higher than it needs to be.

I thought the spreading affect of installing the canopy to the frame would pull the center down. If I had to do it again I would try for a even 3/16" all the way around.
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  #7  
Old 07-09-2013, 03:25 AM
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What kind of adjustments did you have to do to allow for the 3/8" at the top?

Quote:
I just finished my canopy. I was confused also so I made the center top 3/8" and down around the sides 1/8". Now the top center is about 1/4" higher than it needs to be.

I thought the spreading affect of installing the canopy to the frame would pull the center down. If I had to do it again I would try for a even 3/16" all the way around.
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  #8  
Old 07-09-2013, 06:36 AM
RhodeIsland9 RhodeIsland9 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmittysRV View Post
What kind of adjustments did you have to do to allow for the 3/8" at the top?
I haven't installed the front windscreen yet. I'm using the Sikaflex method so I will probably end up using larger spacers and filling with Sika.

My advice would be to get your bends to match the roll bar as close as possible with the slider frame 3/16" larger all around and wait to cut the slider frame tubes where the rollers attach after your finished bonding or riveting the canopy to the frame to set the final height.

I removed the rollers and tracks while bending the frame. I set the tubes on wood blocks where the rollers go to check the bends.

As others have mentioned you can always shim up the windscreen to a larger canopy but if its too low ???
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