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06-28-2013, 11:15 PM
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: California, MD
Posts: 314
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When to rivet forward top structure?
I have the fuel and vents lines done and installed. Brakes are completed and tubing is installed. The rudder pedals also except for the attachment of the rudder cables. FI pump and tubing installed along with manual trim cable. I want to start attaching electronics so is there anything else I need to have done and installed before I rivet the structure over that area? Thanks,
Nick
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06-29-2013, 06:07 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,690
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Without knowing what RV and what canopy, nobody can answer that question exactly.
In general, I think it is best to keep it cleco'ed until the absolute last minute possible in your RV design. This will allow you to work on wiring and firewall penetrations by yourself. For me and my wife, it was the last piece of skin to be riveted before the move to the hangar. Engine was installed and panel was in and complete.
Some craft (like sliders) have to make an earlier choice in order to continue construction of the canopy.
__________________
Bill Pendergrass
ME/AE '82
RV-7A: Flying since April 15, 2012. 850 hrs
YIO-360-M1B, mags, CS, GRT EX and WS H1s & A/P, Navworx
Unpainted, polished....kinda'... Eyeballin' vinyl really hard.
Yeah. The boss got a Silhouette Cameo 4 Xmas 2019.
Last edited by rzbill : 06-29-2013 at 02:56 PM.
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06-29-2013, 07:21 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gardnerville Nv.
Posts: 2,828
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On my 7 A slider I riveted the panel structure all together, and then clekoed into the fuse, it is removable.
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7A Slider, EFII Angle 360, CS, SJ.
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06-29-2013, 08:10 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ottawa, Ks
Posts: 2,188
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I riveted 2/3 of the ribs/subpanel together and cleco'ed on the 3rd piece, it was easily removable. I kept it that way until I finalized my panel and started running wires, then I riveted it. I wish I had finilized my EI and remote Transponder locations before I riveted but it's still possible to work around it.
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06-29-2013, 08:30 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 634
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Hold off as long as you can. It was one of the last things I riveted on before the move to the airport.
Some will also tell you to cut some access holes so you can get at the area behind the subpanel. This is also good advice. I didn't do it, but I figure I'll do it if I need to.
__________________
RV-7 N313TD
SOLD 7/2/2020
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06-29-2013, 08:32 AM
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: California, MD
Posts: 314
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I'm building a 7 slider and like you Bret I was thinking of riveting it together and except for the two side pieces it will slide in and out. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything underneath that area.
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06-29-2013, 09:16 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
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Paint the undersurface (interior) of the top skin white.
It will help when you have to go in later to modify/fix stuff behind the panel... 
__________________
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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06-29-2013, 12:11 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: UK
Posts: 368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila
Paint the undersurface (interior) of the top skin white.
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Never heard that before but it is such an obviously good idea.
Thanks Gil, I will do that.
__________________
Steve Hutt
West Sussex, UK
RV-7 G-HUTY (not flying yet)
( Tip-UP / TMX-IO-360-M1B / Hartzell 7497-2 / 1x LSE PLASMA III / Dual AF4500's / AF-Pilot AP / 695 )
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06-29-2013, 03:54 PM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,884
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I'm building a tipup -7, & used clecos & tiny metric flat head screws/nuts to hold the top skin in critical (interfering) locations so I could do my canopy work without riveting the top skin. I'm doing FWF work now, & don't expect to rivet the top skin until almost ready for flight. :-)
Charlie
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