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  #1  
Old 06-22-2013, 07:23 AM
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aarvig aarvig is offline
 
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Default Worst screw up yet, what should I do??

While assembling the wing skeleton of my RV-9A I was riveting the number two rib from the wing root to the rear spar/W907B/W907C doubler plates. Of course, this rivet toppled over in grand style and I had to drill it out (hindsight 20/20 I should've left the little bugger but I didn't and now I have an even bigger mess to fix
1.) Can this be repaired in a structurally sound manner?
2.) If so, HOW?
3.) Should I bite the bullet and replace the rear spar/rib and doublers? (If this is the case I have a lot of rivets to drill out).

Here it is from the front:




Here it is from the rear:
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Old 06-22-2013, 07:34 AM
jmbaute jmbaute is offline
 
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Default

Probably not the end of the world. I'd send an email to Van's and work on something else for the weekend. Chances are you can go up a rivet size or use a screw. You might have to use a doubler on the shop head side of the joint.

I had to replace my rear spar due to a shop mishap- that isn't fun and I think this is a minor setback in comparison.
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  #3  
Old 06-22-2013, 07:36 AM
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You'll need to drill out the hole and go with a larger rivet. Just drill what you need to on the spar side. If that doesn't completely clean up the hole in the rib, you can just add a small doubler on that side.
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Old 06-22-2013, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mel View Post
You'll need to drill out the hole and go with a larger rivet. Just drill what you need to on the spar side. If that doesn't completely clean up the hole in the rib, you can just add a small doubler on that side.
When you say drill what you need to on the spar side do you mean just drilling deep enough through the rib/spar but not into the doubler plates? Or just drill the whole thing wide enough to clean up the hole on the rib?
How thick should the doubler be and does it need to have more than one rivet in it?
Thanks for your time Mel. I was glad to see you looked this over.
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  #5  
Old 06-22-2013, 08:07 AM
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He means drill from the spar side a hole large enough to clean up the spar side. Don't worry about the rib side. If it's still a little ragged after drilling, make a small doubler (like a wide washer) to drive the rivet through. For extra support of the rivet shank, you can set the rivet wet with a little epoxy or fill the hole with structural adhesive and then redrill it before setting the rivet.
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  #6  
Old 06-22-2013, 08:34 AM
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Yep! What Patrick said.
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  #7  
Old 06-22-2013, 08:48 AM
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Or just drill #27 and put in a #6 screw and nut or #19 & a #8 screw and nut. Might need to countersink and put a flush screw.
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:52 AM
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THanks guys! I can put the scotch away now.
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  #9  
Old 07-16-2013, 05:18 PM
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Default What about edge distance?

Mel,
You recommended I replace with a 5/32 rivet. I can do that. The hole is currently at the larger side of acceptable for that rivet (.1700), however, I don't have acceptable edge distance. Is this OK here?
Same with the #8 screw (although I think the hole is to wide for a number 8 screw. Going to a number 10 may work, but again, edge distance).
Any thoughts? I have the Van's engineers working on this right now too.
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  #10  
Old 07-16-2013, 06:16 PM
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Bob Kuykendall Bob Kuykendall is offline
 
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Default Only drill the head, drive the shank

One thing that I'd recommend going forward is that you practice drilling rivets out on scrap pieces before doing it on flight hardware. That way you can build valuable skills without risk.

When removing a rivet, you only drill through the head, and the drill bit should only go deep enough to almost touch the workpiece, but should never actually touch it. Then you can use the shank of the drill to snap off the head, and next use a drift pin of the nominal rivet shank size to drive out the shank and shop head. On thin material you can use a bucking bar with a hole in it to support the workpiece while driving out the shank.

Thanks, Bob K.
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