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  #11  
Old 04-02-2012, 08:01 AM
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GAHco GAHco is offline
 
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Thumbs up The Best Primer Lines, in my opinion....

The Best Primer Lines, in my opinion are stainless steel with AN800C2 on each end. Then you need the correct fitting, they are the are like the ones that are in the fuel distributor on top of the engine if its fuel injected. But if you have that, you dont need a primer setup.

The cone fittings need to be silver brazed onto the line.

See links for pictures and part#'s

http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com...df/ftgspcl.pdf

The components are not cheap so if you want to save money go with the straight ones instead of the forged ones.
See Tubing Here http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com...ubing+info.pdf
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  #12  
Old 04-02-2012, 08:54 AM
Bob Axsom Bob Axsom is offline
 
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Default The other end

I used the primer fittings that are soldered on to the 1/8" copper tubing (page 99 in the 2011-2012 ACS catalog) and silver solder. It is not like SN60 or SN63 solder with a melting temperature that can be handled by a pencil like soldering iron. I used the small butane torch sold by ACS (page 730) for approximately $68. I was concerned that I might run out of butane and wanted to finish the job once I started. I had a little trouble finding a source but I bought some extra bottles at a film industry store in Los Angeles. It turned out I shouldn't have wasted my money - I did the job and I am still on the original bottle. However, if one should break someday I have the gas and the tool to do the job.

Bob Axsom
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  #13  
Old 06-06-2013, 01:01 PM
184KS 184KS is offline
 
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Posts: 35
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TS Flightlines View Post
Copper lines are a pain. We switch them over to stainless braid teflon.
Tom
Tom, how are you connecting the Teflon hoses to the primer nozzles? Any photos?
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  #14  
Old 06-06-2013, 02:13 PM
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Vern Vern is offline
 
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Default Copper lines . . .

...do not belong on an airplane. See my post of how fast and how bad an RV-6 burned when his primer line broke during run up.
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  #15  
Old 06-06-2013, 03:35 PM
Randle Randle is offline
 
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Thumbs down

I will jump in on this boat again, I also highly suggest staying away from the copper lines. I posted on another thread around 2 weeks ago where another gentleman was setting up his primer line setup. I have converted MANY Lycomings from the copper to stainless after finding the brass nuts split from age and normal vibration, or broke off at the solder point. I was doing an annual on a Beech Musketeer last summer with an O-320 when I noticed one of the lines looked like it was separating, when he gave the system a pump of go-go juice, all three ends leaked gas down the side of the cylinders, and no, the nozzles were not clogged. I understand SOME of the aircraft owners on here have not had problems with their copper lines, but for people like Walt and other A&Ps on here that inspect GAs very frequently, you will get a very consistent answer from their experiences. Save yourself from being stranded away from home on that X-country and take the steps necessary to ensure the safey of you and your aircraft by using SS. You will still be able to put that shiny new flaring tool to good use with the stainless too
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  #16  
Old 06-06-2013, 07:39 PM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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Default

It's interesting that Van's primer system uses copper lines with blue AN fittings alone.
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  #17  
Old 06-06-2013, 08:24 PM
N427EF N427EF is offline
 
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Default

So are manifold pressure lines.
Properly installed copper lines, relieved with loops should last decades as they have in certified airplanes.
I am sure stainless line or teflon hose is even better but at 10 times the price.
I know some of you are going to say it's not a big deal in the grand scheme
to spend an extra $50 bucks for "proper" primer lines. Next are fuel lines, not to be made up by amateurs, 50 bucks here a hundred there, before you know it you spend an extra couple of thousand to build a space shuttle quality aircraft, it' only money as they say.
I can't dispute what the APs tell you but surly they have also seen cracks in Lycoming cylinders and broken con rods, busted valve rockers and even crankshafts that broke in half and we still use the same lycoming engines.
Bottom line, if you are not sure about what you are doing, either educate yourself or just do what the experts tell you.
The fact that you are asking tells me that you are educating yourself, good for you.
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  #18  
Old 06-06-2013, 10:13 PM
TS Flightlines TS Flightlines is offline
 
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Default

I make -2 hose ends for -3 hose.
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  #19  
Old 06-14-2013, 05:45 PM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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Default The perils of copper demonstrated

After this thread resurfaced last week, once again questioning the appropriateness of copper used for primer lines, I got a bit paranoid and went and checked mine a bit more thoroughly, having just done an examination of the system for my condition inspection a couple weeks ago. Guess what I found after wiggling each of the lines gently where they went into the cylinders?





Now, I'll be the first to say that it's entirely possible I did the initial installation wrong. At the same time, however, I did it similarly to all my other aluminum lines and followed the instructions that came with Van's primer kit. Thus, it might be considered a cautionary tale for anyone who, like me, is not an expert in copper line installations.

Needless to say, after discovering this, I immediately pulled out all of my primer lines and capped the upper port on my gascolator. This part of the year the primer system is not really needed anyway. Even though this was on the generally unpressurized side of the primer solenoid, failures like this could be potentially catastrophic. Over the next few months I'll be exploring alternative methods for a primer installation.

Hope this helps someone else.
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Last edited by alpinelakespilot2000 : 06-14-2013 at 05:50 PM.
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  #20  
Old 06-14-2013, 07:14 PM
N427EF N427EF is offline
 
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Default

It's hard to argue for copper primer line with a picture like that.
I am sure even a stainless line would have broken sooner or later wound up like that.
It's a neat looking loop but it needs to be 90 degrees perpendicular to the line of force tugging on the copper tube.
In other words you want to take advantage of the accordion effect of coiled copper line to get the benefit of a flexible installation.
No primer system or a hose might be best for most builders.

Glad you found that break in time.
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