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05-15-2013, 04:53 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 34
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Crack
When I bent the F770 side skin, a crack developed at the sharp bend.
Can I just stop drill the crack and continue building or do I need to order a new skin?
http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/ja...55108099362637
Thanks in advance,
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Jerry
RV-4 (999ZF) flying
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05-15-2013, 07:21 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 659
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I had the same thing happen on one of my skins. I filed it out with a needle file. No signs of trouble after 4 years and 250 hours.
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Andy Compton, PhD EE
RV-10 - #41414 (building)
RV-9A - N643AC (built,flying,sold,missed)
My blood and sweat, the Wifey's tears 
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05-15-2013, 07:24 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 8,144
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Stop drill and move on this corner is locked in assembly. Be careful on next one.
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05-15-2013, 08:28 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Peachtree City Ga
Posts: 56
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I would route it out and polish the edge. I believe what I see is the edge of the metal at the crack does not appear to be deburred, it may be but in this and similar locations you need to literally round the edges and polish the sheet edge to a smooth shine. All traces of the factory cut edge roughness should be removed. That is what I did and my bend was just as tight without a crack. I work aircraft structures, sheet metal at a major airline, have lots of experience doing this, proper deburring and polishing edges is required to get tight bends without cracking.
Greg
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Gregory Targonski
Peachtree City GA
RV-9A Flying as of September 12, 2013
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05-15-2013, 08:55 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 34
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Thanks
Thanks all for the replies. I will follow your suggestions.
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Jerry
RV-4 (999ZF) flying
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05-15-2013, 10:15 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: West Fargo, ND
Posts: 1,073
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In lieu of a stop drill, drill a hole large enough to remove the entire crack. Position the bit in the least obtrusive location then dress/debur the edges.
I put painters tape on the exterior of these holes then applied a dollop of pro seal from the inside. Appears nice n smooth outside and seals the water/air leak.
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Derek Hoeschen
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-9A #92103 - N803DK
G3X, Superior XO-320, Dual Pmags, Catto 3B
www.mykitlog.com/dbro172/
1974 Bellanca Super Viking - N16AW - Flying
RV-8 #83565 - N184DK - building
1968 Mooney M20C - N6801N - Sold
1956 C-182 - N744W - Sold
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05-16-2013, 05:48 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gardnerville Nv.
Posts: 2,828
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I also joined this club a few months ago, I called Vans and they said as above, stop drill and move on, that was one of those bad building days, very frustrating but moved on.
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7A Slider, EFII Angle 360, CS, SJ.
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05-16-2013, 04:21 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Fargo, ND
Posts: 146
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I did it too. Stop drilled it. I've since done other things to be mad about.
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RV-7 Flying
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05-16-2013, 05:13 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: KASH
Posts: 496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lionclaw
I had the same thing happen on one of my skins. I filed it out with a needle file.
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Ditto. After riveting the side/bottom skins and flipping the canoe you won't even notice it any more.
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Dave Setser
RV-7 airworthy!
Nashua, NH (KASH)
Putting the "slow" in slow-build since 2004!
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05-16-2013, 11:42 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: IL
Posts: 18
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