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  #1  
Old 05-14-2013, 09:29 AM
RhodeIsland9 RhodeIsland9 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Middletown, RI
Posts: 36
Default Slider roller track

This is yet another problem with my quick build fuse that was built too wide at the front roll bar area. Keeping the roller tracks parallel the over hang at the rear is greater than plans show. After removing material to clearance the tracks from the side skirts I'm left with a notch that the rollers will get caught on.

I'm thinking of making some kind of stop about an inch before the end of the track. Has anyone else had this issue?

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  #2  
Old 05-14-2013, 09:35 AM
Flyguytki's Avatar
Flyguytki Flyguytki is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Fairbanks AK
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I think the Stop an inch forward or so is the way to go.

Get another plastic block, shape it to fit inside the rail, 2 counter sunk screws from the top and you should be good to go. As always tho theres a million ways to skin a cat.

Just my 2 cents.

-david
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  #3  
Old 05-14-2013, 09:41 AM
turbosaaber turbosaaber is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: boynton beach fl
Posts: 210
Default fuel line automotive tubing

Just use two pieces of fuel hose from your favorite automotive store and make them 1.5 to 2" in length, place them in the track behind the roller and put some aluminum tape, we called it speed tape back in the day, to cover the notched out area on the track. It will keep the hose in the track in the aft section, just get the right size hose, it will be a tight fit and you will need to squeeze it in there. The AL tape is covered by the slider side skirts. Hope this helps...

carl
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  #4  
Old 05-14-2013, 11:35 AM
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MarkW MarkW is offline
 
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I inadvertently removed too much as well. Didn't really need to and mine hangs up as well. I haven't fixed it yet but I didn't want to limit the movement to the rear. It seams the space between the seat back brace and canopy is a limiting factor for large objects in the baggage area and I did not want to limit it futher. I am thinking that the fix may be to insert a thin piece of aluminum plate in the track to cover the hole from the inside. Maybe glue or epoxy in place.
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  #5  
Old 05-14-2013, 07:57 PM
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Jeff Vaughan Jeff Vaughan is offline
 
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Simple stop I created to solve the same issue




Before trimming
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Last edited by Jeff Vaughan : 05-14-2013 at 08:01 PM.
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  #6  
Old 05-14-2013, 08:46 PM
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Dbro172 Dbro172 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RhodeIsland9 View Post
This is yet another problem with my quick build fuse that was built too wide at the front roll bar area.
So, what other problems have you found with your QB?

Ps. My QB fuse is also too wide. My slider ended up working fine, the tracks are out of parallel by almost 1/4" to avoid the problem you mention. I split the difference and it is a non issue. Where I'm having an issue with the wide fuse is the front top skin is sooooo tight the panel will never be removable and I question how riveting the sides to the fuse will turn out.... I can hardly get the Clecos in to the longerons.
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  #7  
Old 05-14-2013, 09:02 PM
RetiredRacer RetiredRacer is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ipswich QLD Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkW View Post
I inadvertently removed too much as well. Didn't really need to and mine hangs up as well. I haven't fixed it yet but I didn't want to limit the movement to the rear. It seams the space between the seat back brace and canopy is a limiting factor for large objects in the baggage area and I did not want to limit it futher. I am thinking that the fix may be to insert a thin piece of aluminum plate in the track to cover the hole from the inside. Maybe glue or epoxy in place.
Mine is the same way , and yes, I blame myself for not picking this up before removing too much metal. Like Mark I haven't "fixed" it yet because I've got used to pulling the canopy to the right as I close it. It only caught sometimes when I first started flying the 9a and I was going to replace the rail, but now because I automaticaly slightly pull the canopy to the right as I close it, it is a none issue! It is only an issue with the left rail as I fitted that one first and didn't make the same stuff-up on the right side .
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  #8  
Old 05-14-2013, 09:11 PM
RetiredRacer RetiredRacer is offline
 
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Location: Ipswich QLD Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbro172 View Post
So, what other problems have you found with your QB?

Ps. My QB fuse is also too wide. My slider ended up working fine, the tracks are out of parallel by almost 1/4" to avoid the problem you mention. I split the difference and it is a non issue. Where I'm having an issue with the wide fuse is the front top skin is sooooo tight the panel will never be removable and I question how riveting the sides to the fuse will turn out.... I can hardly get the Clecos in to the longerons.
I had the same concern's, but I found when I came to do the job. By working from the top down with the rivets, the rivets pulled it down better than the cleco's and it turned out fine.
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  #9  
Old 05-15-2013, 07:02 AM
hesty hesty is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Boulder City, NV
Posts: 44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbro172 View Post
So, what other problems have you found with your QB?

Ps. My QB fuse is also too wide. My slider ended up working fine, the tracks are out of parallel by almost 1/4" to avoid the problem you mention. I split the difference and it is a non issue. Where I'm having an issue with the wide fuse is the front top skin is sooooo tight the panel will never be removable and I question how riveting the sides to the fuse will turn out.... I can hardly get the Clecos in to the longerons.

+1. I have a QB 7A with the exact same issues. Misery loves company! Glad the issues, and solutions are being discussed since I am working on my canopy now!
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  #10  
Old 05-15-2013, 09:57 AM
RhodeIsland9 RhodeIsland9 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Middletown, RI
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbro172 View Post
So, what other problems have you found with your QB?

Ps. My QB fuse is also too wide. My slider ended up working fine, the tracks are out of parallel by almost 1/4" to avoid the problem you mention. I split the difference and it is a non issue. Where I'm having an issue with the wide fuse is the front top skin is sooooo tight the panel will never be removable and I question how riveting the sides to the fuse will turn out.... I can hardly get the Clecos in to the longerons.
The longerons on my quick build fuse were bent incorrectly. The panel and top skin would not fit. I only discovered this after months of work were already done (tail and wings drilled, interior painted ect.) so I was stuck with the problem. It took another couple weeks to convince Vans that there was a problem. At first they told me to put a large clamp across the fuse and pull it into position. Well that did NOT work.

I finally dicided to drill out and remove both top decks on the right side (the worst one) and re-bend the longeron. I had Van's make new top decks without the holes pre punched and back drilled through the existing holes.

Rivets not set correctly, hole miss drilled for the bellcrank, poor fit and finish work... Someone from Vans inspected this before shipment

No surprise that I will not recommend a QB fuse to anyone. I could have built what was done in the same time it took to fix all the issues in mine. Total waste of $$ IMHO.

This picture was taken after the decks were removed showing the longeron bending out.



BTW, I feel the top decks and the baggage floors should be left off the QB fuse for the builder to install. The first thing I did was remove the floors to install the steps. I remember thinking, why am I drilling out rivets?
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