Slider Questions

[Dbro172]

Hoping someone can help me see into the future here for help with my slider.

1. Now that my anchor pin blocks are drilled and postioned; around the left rear bow, the top of the plexi is dead nuts flush with the rear skin, which I assume is the best case scenario for fitting the rear skirts. About 1/3rd of my right rear bow (about in the middle of it) the plexi is 1/8" lower than the rear skin. Will I be playing heck trying to make the rear aluminum skirt work with this? Should I plan to teach myself fiberglass techniques here? Will the fiberglass compensate for the low bow?

2. Prior to installing the slider blocks the canopy slid real well. Now, it still slides relatively well, but you can tell the blocks are there in the last inch or so, more so at the start of opening the canopy. Is this all personal preference here? I dont want to over do it to have a easy slide but then create slop inside the blocks.

[airguy]

Originally Posted by Dbro172

Hoping someone can help me see into the future here for help with my slider.

1. Now that my anchor pin blocks are drilled and postioned; around the left rear bow, the top of the plexi is dead nuts flush with the rear skin, which I assume is the best case scenario for fitting the rear skirts. About 1/3rd of my right rear bow (about in the middle of it) the plexi is 1/8" lower than the rear skin. Will I be playing heck trying to make the rear aluminum skirt work with this? Should I plan to teach myself fiberglass techniques here? Will the fiberglass compensate for the low bow?

2. Prior to installing the slider blocks the canopy slid real well. Now, it still slides relatively well, but you can tell the blocks are there in the last inch or so, more so at the start of opening the canopy. Is this all personal preference here? I dont want to over do it to have a easy slide but then create slop inside the blocks.

You'll probably end up needing to put a handle on the top aft of the canopy near where the rear bow comes up, to assist in opening the canopy on the ground. The drag in the blocks can make it really difficult without some kind of handle. I used a furniture pull-knob on mine.

[DarylT]

I installed a stainless cabinet handle from Lowes. Drilled holes for the AN bolts thru the top canopy frame.



Once you start using it the fit gets much smoother. Now after 56 hours of flying it just takes a tug to start it opening.

And the stainless finish of the handle looks good with Red.