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  #11  
Old 04-04-2013, 04:19 PM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rzbill View Post
Some years ago at a "how to" class, I was shown a different knot than mentioned so far in this thread. It allows one to do the individual knotted laces without having to cut an individual string first. You cut after the knot is finished and move on. Saves big time on wasted thread and mess. (like that matters)

This allows the roll to be on the floor, line in left hand continuously, dikes in the right and knots being made and trimmed quicky. It was competitive with zip ties for ease.

Verbal description is outside my skill so I will try to find some images somewhere.
Could it be the simple clove hitch shown of page 2 of this NASA document?

http://www.sandman.com/files/NASAcab...acing40-43.pdf

You could get the basic knot going with the reel on the floor, and then cut it and do the square knot...
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  #12  
Old 04-04-2013, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
Could it be the simple clove hitch shown of page 2 of this NASA document?

http://www.sandman.com/files/NASAcab...acing40-43.pdf

You could get the basic knot going with the reel on the floor, and then cut it and do the square knot...
Gil,
It is kinda like a clove hitch that is finished with what I think is called a double overhand (a single overhand with another wrap) . The trick was that you form a couple of loops, pass the raw end though one loop, tighten and then do the double overhand with the raw end. All of this without cutting the cord from the reel.

I looked for some images on the web but can't find any. I still have the printouts from that class so I can scan and post later. I know the knot does not conform to 43-13 but I believed the old guy and the knots are definitely secure.

EDIT: It looks like a variation of the closing stitch shown in figure 9-4
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Last edited by rzbill : 04-04-2013 at 05:31 PM.
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  #13  
Old 04-04-2013, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
Could it be the simple clove hitch shown of page 2 of this NASA document?

http://www.sandman.com/files/NASAcab...acing40-43.pdf

You could get the basic knot going with the reel on the floor, and then cut it and do the square knot...
The illustrations in that reference look similar to those in AC-43.13, my go-to reference. Electrical is Chapter 11.
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  #14  
Old 04-04-2013, 06:13 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Default Great "thread" !

Timely topic ; . . . a bunch of us must be at the same point. I just researched this last night and ordered my lacing today. Good references here, the same ones I found, and read. Great forum for builders!
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  #15  
Old 04-04-2013, 06:37 PM
Norman CYYJ Norman CYYJ is offline
 
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To save some time put your bundle together with Ty wraps and leave them loose to put in the extra wires you may have forgotten. After it is all done use the lacing cord to finish the job and remove the Ty wraps.
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  #16  
Old 04-04-2013, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longranger View Post
The illustrations in that reference look similar to those in AC-43.13, my go-to reference. Electrical is Chapter 11.
That makes sense, considering the harness tying techniques go back to before the FAA was created...

The FAA shows the clove hitch plus square knot method for a spot tie, but the easy AeroElectric Bob method is not shown in any other links.

I find Bobs method easier to in a confined space.

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles...able_lace.html

It's been a long time since I did knots in the Boy Scouts....
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  #17  
Old 04-04-2013, 11:29 PM
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AeroElectric Bob is using a "Larks Head" knot.
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  #18  
Old 04-05-2013, 08:46 AM
Stewie Stewie is offline
 
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Default Wax on/wax off

Without knowing the difference between the waxed/unwaxed, I purchased the unwaxed (it was slightly cheaper). The unwaxed is rather slippery and in my experience knots tended to loosen if they were not pulled extremely tight, which can be hard to do in confined spaces and I didn't want to cause the insulation to flow from a Vulcan death grip. I purchased a roll of the waxed and find it much easier to use: knots stay knotted, and you don't need to use an immoderate amount of force to tie them. They also look cleaner - no "bowties" - since you can clip the loose ends to 1/4" and then smooth them back around the lace - the wax will "bond" to itself. If you are using Nuckoll's guide, you'll make a loop in the end through which you pass the loose ends after doing the wrap - with waxed lace you can make this loop and pinch it and the wax will hold the loop for you. The unwaxed didn't do this and made the job a bit more difficult in tight spaces. The above explanation will make sense once you start your lacing.

On a related note (neat installation of wiring bundles) check out Waytek's online catalog. They have a very nice assortment of plastic clips, heat shrink, high temp zip ties etc. Stein pointed me in their direction.
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  #19  
Old 04-05-2013, 09:14 AM
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Thumbs up Waxed

Definitely waxed for harness ties. The wax keeps the knots from possibly slipping.

The Spruce link I gave earlier only covers waxed cord in their electrical section, and AeroElectric Bobs notes prefer polyester over nylon.
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  #20  
Old 04-05-2013, 09:43 AM
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The unwaxed cord is ideal for use FWF and the waxed is great anywhere else.
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