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  #11  
Old 03-30-2013, 05:47 PM
DHeal DHeal is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Windsor, California
Posts: 924
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Instead of punching a bunch of holes in sticky tape (I couldn't punch out consistently round holes!), I just used some lengths of old electrician's tape (long runs crossed by short stub pieces) to "frame" each of the rivets. A little dab o' ProSeal on each rivet head, smoothed out with a wet fingertip, let it set a bit, and tear off the tape. VIOLA -- a series of neat, squarish, well-sealed rivet heads. Tape is your friend when working with the gooey stuff.
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David Heal - Windsor, CA (near Santa Rosa)
EAA #23982 (circa 1965) - EAA Technical Counselor and Flight Advisor; CFI - A&I
RV-12 E-LSA #120496 (SV w/ AP and ADS-B 2020) - N124DH flying since March 2014 - 940+ hours (as of September 2020)!
VAF donation through June 2021.
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  #12  
Old 03-30-2013, 09:55 PM
RFSchaller RFSchaller is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 2,820
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Scott,

I can't challenge the position that the KAI specifies gas tank sealer, but it seems an inconvenient choice for the following reasons: the rivets are tight enough to prevent engine compartment gases from getting into the cockpit, HI tempo RTV gives a convenient and durable seal for gaps, and there is no long term exposure to gasoline that would degrade the RTV. How does the gas tank sealant hold up to the engine compartment temperature?

It just seems Hi Temp RTV is a convenient and adequate alternative Vans may want to consider.

Rich
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  #13  
Old 03-31-2013, 05:02 PM
DaveWelch DaveWelch is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 427
Default Flame test posts

Take a look at Dan Horton's posts regarding his flame tests. Date was around 13 June 2011. Takes a while to read, but very informative.

I've about given up on my "neatness score" with Proseal and Flamemaster, but here's what I ended up doing for sealing the shop heads of pulled rivets...

Get a syringe. Use a drill bit and slow drill speed to open up the hole so the material will flow thru easier. Otherwise its VERY hard to extrude the material as it begins to set up.

I used a short piece of 1/4" OD plastic tube and widened one end by forcing it onto an awl and heating it with a heat gun. This way the tube fits over the end of the pulled shop heads with a little room the spare. Install the non-expanded end of the tube onto your syringe.

The syringe can be loaded from the rear using a popsicle stick. Put on your nitrile gloves, loader 'er up, insert the plunger and go to work. Place the expanded end of the plastic tube over the shop head, extrude enough goo till you see it coming out around the base of the rivet. Spin the syringe once around to be sure sealent is applied all the way around the base, then pull it straight off and move to the next one. After a bit of practive, I was able to "seal-by-feel" even in areas of the tank that I could not see because the short tube keeps the rig located on your rivet as you sqeeze the material. Worked for me. Your results may vary.

Embrace the goo!
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  #14  
Old 04-01-2013, 05:07 PM
08FATBOY 08FATBOY is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: STRONGSVILLE OHIO
Posts: 31
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Thanks to all who responded. After seeing the photo i made my decision.
Found my gasket punch, green masking tape, and a flat piece of plastic and went to work. A farm store syringe drilled out worked great for the pro seal. Many hours later a firewall to be proud of. Thanks again!


Rod
sn#120162
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