VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics


Go Back   VAF Forums > Model Specific > RV-12/RV-12iS
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Today's Posts

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #11  
Old 03-27-2013, 04:26 PM
Chino Tom's Avatar
Chino Tom Chino Tom is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 738
Default

Not being a -12 builder (yet!) I was wondering why a CS4 there instead
of a standard rivet when those on either side are? Can't use a squeezer
for that hole?
__________________
Tom Prokop
Chino, CA
RV-8A,180/CS/Carb, AFS 4500 EFIS/EMS
RV-6, sold, 820 hrs of fun.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 03-27-2013, 04:58 PM
txaviator's Avatar
txaviator txaviator is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Arlington, TX (DFW)
Posts: 1,164
Default

Tim,
In your top photo, the two black pieces to the right, are the exact ones I was mentioning. I'd bet that by mating these two pieces, you'll find the rivets much easier to pull, and breaking where they are supposed to! I see a small gap between them, and that's not supposed to be there. I believe the tip size is fine. I think you'll find it was those two black pieces being apart....the breaking of the mandrel obviously occurs within those two pieces. If it's out of adjustment, nothing will pull the way it is designed to.

Looks like the problem has been solved!?
__________________
Gary Robertson
Arlington, TX

RV-12 Built / Sold / Flying
Currently Flying: Cessna Skyhawk 172
Rebuilding a true barn find J-3 Cub
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 03-27-2013, 05:01 PM
Bill_H's Avatar
Bill_H Bill_H is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Marshall TX (KASL)
Posts: 1,783
Default

My pneumatic puller from Cleaveland was very happy with 40 psi air. Nice smooth pull. Too much or too little pressure is not good. Built the whole plane with 40 psi.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 03-27-2013, 06:04 PM
rvbuilder2002's Avatar
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,035
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pirate View Post

Scott - The puller actually pulls rivets rather slowly. Very similar to any other puller I've used. Here's what the tip looks like that came with it. Does it need to be tighter than this? Its the exact same size as the one that came with my hand puller for 1/8" rivets.

NUMATX head:


Hand Puller:


Thanks,
Tim
Most (but not all) pullers come with an assortment of tips for different size rivets. The one you are using looks like the hole is about 1/2 again the diam. of the stem. Ideally it would be just slightly bigger than the stem. It will not hurt anything, but it will effect the aesthetic appearance of the skin rivets on the exterior of the airplane. Call Mike at Cleveland Tools and see if it was supposed to come with other tips, or if they have them available.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 03-27-2013, 08:06 PM
PilotBrent PilotBrent is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Hackettstown, NJ
Posts: 459
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chino Tom View Post
Not being a -12 builder (yet!) I was wondering why a CS4 there instead
of a standard rivet when those on either side are? Can't use a squeezer
for that hole?
There are several rivet locations in the RV-12 that can't be accessed with standard yolk squeezers. And there is no requirement to use a rivet gun/bucking bar for the -12, so Van's specifies exactly where to use the flush pull rivets instead. You really need to follow the plans to the letter to avoid getting into trouble.
__________________
---------------
Brent Connelly
Hackettstown, NJ
RV-12, N913BC
http://www.mykitlog.com/brent45

Check out & subscribe to my Youtube channel for latest RV-12 flying videos...
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxQ...Px2I7jmazGdLqg
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 03-27-2013, 08:31 PM
Special Delivery's Avatar
Special Delivery Special Delivery is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: League City, TX
Posts: 595
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PilotBrent View Post
<snip> You really need to follow the plans to the letter to avoid getting into trouble.
Amen to that!!!
and I'll add... Make no assumptions of assembly logic or order. Case in point - if your building experience is based on any model less than -10, you may have wing walk doublers left over after you've finished riveting on the top skins. What?... wing walk doublers on the OUTSIDE?
Just sayin'
__________________
R. E. "Ernie" Butcher
Friends of the RV-1/Eagle's Nest Projects
"Mentors build the student...
Students build the airplane." -Glen Salmon

Dedicated to the historical preservation of the RV-1 Aircraft
and organized for the purposes of promoting, supporting,
fostering, and engaging in aviation and aerospace education.

www.RV-1.org
www.EaglesNestProjects.org

Last edited by Special Delivery : 03-27-2013 at 09:09 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 03-27-2013, 09:29 PM
RFSchaller RFSchaller is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 2,820
Default

Ernie,

For the most part I agree with your conclusion on build order, but I bought all the airframe kits at once and mixed it up a bit with the fuselage and finish kits which made the build a little easier in my opinion.

Rich
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 03-28-2013, 06:36 AM
noelf noelf is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Cary, N.C.
Posts: 1,216
Default

OK, I see that this is in the RV-12 post area...I built a -6A. I my case, there are a number of areas that call for flush head pulled rivets. Offhand, I don't recall the exact p/n or designation. I had a similar problem as the OP, and came up with a solution to prevent the raised burr left by a too-large rivet puller nose piece.

If you look at a Cherry-Max rivet, you will find that it contains a "driving mandrill" that looks like a very small washer resting on the flat part of the flush rivet. When the Cherry Max rivet is inserted into a hole and then set, the pin mandrel brakes as you would expect, and the little washer flies off /drops to the floor/ whatever. You can retrieve these little washers and use them on other types of flush rivets to eliminate the raised burr that is caused by the not so perfect fit with other pop rivet tools.
__________________
Noel
RV-6A N6NF
tip-up
flying
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 03-28-2013, 09:35 AM
clevtool's Avatar
clevtool clevtool is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Boone, Iowa
Posts: 342
Default



Tim,

Thanks for forwarding me the link to this thread. I have been absent from VAF for far too long as we have been consumed with tool development. The question here is one that many users of the power pop rivet tools don't understand, so I thought I should make the reply public.

As others have said you want to use the smallest nosepiece that the mandrel will fit through.

For the greatest stroke the hex nut shown in your photo above should be placed in the furthest aft position, then the two black barrels should be tightened up against them with no gaps. Normal rivets should then be able to be pulled in one stroke.

When pulling shorter rivets, you may want to run all three pieces forward a bit (still tightened together) to limit the amount of recoil experienced. If you are like me, I push a bit on the material to make sure the rivet is seated properly in the material. With too much stroke, the puller will recoil when the mandrel breaks and leave the material. The manual pressure being held causes the user to hit the skin with the puller head. When adjusted correctly, the puller should just click when the mandrel breaks, with no noticeable recoil. As a measure of security, I generally hold the puller nose in a saddle with my left hand, placing my thumb and index finger on opposite sides of the nose piece and against the skin. This allows me to control the nose as the degree of freedom is added when the mandrel breaks.

Now to address your actual question... I would think that it is either too long of a rivet for the material, or more likely the two barrel parts are not jammed tightly together as shown in the photo.
__________________
Mike Lauritsen
-
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
800-368-1822
www.CleavelandTool.com
mike.toolman (at) gmail.com

Like on Facebook - Follow on Twitter - See on YouTube
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 03-28-2013, 12:19 PM
Pirate's Avatar
Pirate Pirate is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: PA/HK
Posts: 19
Default

Thanks everyone! This website is a lifesaver.

Problems solved.
__________________
RV12
Tail kit (need more time)
PA32R-300 N2236M
Reply With Quote
Reply



Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:06 AM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.