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  #1  
Old 03-19-2013, 11:51 AM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,947
Default Exterior Priming

Question:
When/if you primed, did you prime exterior surfaces at the same time? Would the paint shop be pleased or not?
Reason I ask...
My empennage was about five years old. It sat with the plastic coating in someone's garage. As I start building and removing it, I am finding corrosion near edge surfaces where humidity found a path under the plastic. My advice to anyone buying from someone else is to peel some back and look. I plan to remove it going forward. So is it ok to spray the exterior while priming the interior surface or would that present a problem for the painter who sprays the outside finish? If so, would it be advisable to at least shoot the exterior spots where I had to scotch bite out the corrosion? I don't want it coming back before the plane is finished. FYI I live in a very low humidity area and I'm using Sherwin Williams.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #2  
Old 03-19-2013, 11:57 AM
BobTurner BobTurner is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 6,797
Default

A good paint shop will stand by its work, but they can only do that if they also do the surface prep. e.g., be prepared to pay the shop to remove your primer.
Of course they do that all the time with not-new airplanes, so it's no big deal. Just added cost.
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  #3  
Old 03-19-2013, 12:57 PM
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rleffler rleffler is online now
 
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Location: Delaware, OH (KDLZ)
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Default

I concur with Bob, but the best answer, is to talk to the person that will be painting the aircraft and see what they prefer. Now would be a good time to start talking to painters and get their opinion on the subject. Our opinions don't count for much.
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  #4  
Old 03-19-2013, 12:58 PM
David Z David Z is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Thunder Bay Ontario
Posts: 335
Default

I had the same problem when I bought a used wing kit. I spot primed anywhere I removed corrosion. It's only a few small areas, so not really that difficult to deal with. Paint shops have some pretty nasty chemicals that eat old paint/primer right off the bare metal so it won't make much difference at the end.
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  #5  
Old 03-19-2013, 05:01 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Location: Estes Park, CO
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Default spot prime

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Z View Post
I had the same problem when I bought a used wing kit. I spot primed anywhere I removed corrosion. It's only a few small areas, so not really that difficult to deal with. Paint shops have some pretty nasty chemicals that eat old paint/primer right off the bare metal so it won't make much difference at the end.
Thanks
I think the best option is to spot prime the areas where I removed corrosion with Napa. It's easily removed and will protect those areas till my baby gets painted. She will look like my Beater for a while!
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #6  
Old 03-20-2013, 09:06 AM
Rupester Rupester is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Mahomet, Illinois
Posts: 2,195
Default Also note that ...

....some of the primer products specify that finish topcoat is to be applied within a matter of x hours.
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  #7  
Old 03-20-2013, 09:14 AM
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bret bret is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gardnerville Nv.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupester View Post
....some of the primer products specify that finish topcoat is to be applied within a matter of x hours.
Not a problem with the napa primer if you are just going to sand it off for real primer, and then yes, top coat with in X hrs, but my experience is that you want to wet sand the primer before top coat any way for a nice finish, and when you sand the primer, you can top coat at any time, exchanging chemical bonding (time frame) with mechanical bonding, ( no time frame)
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  #8  
Old 03-20-2013, 12:17 PM
Falcontech Falcontech is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Big Bear CA
Posts: 17
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock View Post
Thanks
I think the best option is to spot prime the areas where I removed corrosion with Napa. It's easily removed and will protect those areas till my baby gets painted. She will look like my Beater for a while!
My RV6A was started in 1999 and has gone through three other builders. There are patches of red and grey primer all over the fuselage and miscellaneous other parts.

I feel like my aircraft is the RV equivalent of a "Rat Rod", until I get it painted.
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  #9  
Old 03-20-2013, 04:08 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,947
Default napa

The Napa is just going over spots on the exterior skin surfaces where I removed corrosion. Since I had to scotch brite below the alclad, I wanted something to cover the areas for protection. It's just to protect those areas until the plane is ready for the paint shop. At that point, I or the shop can remove it for their priming and paint.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
Reply With Quote
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