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  #21  
Old 03-19-2013, 11:18 AM
Lemmingman's Avatar
Lemmingman Lemmingman is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: McKinney, TX
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Doug,
You might have found this, but check this thread and look at post #9. Nice view of how they made the stand. Cant find drawings...still looking, though.

http://www.j3-cub.com/forum/f79/cub-stacker-15207/
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  #22  
Old 03-19-2013, 11:28 AM
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Tipping or hanging from cables? Don't forget about the wind. A hangar with the big door open can have a lot of air movement.
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  #23  
Old 03-19-2013, 12:41 PM
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flyboy1963 flyboy1963 is offline
 
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Location: Lake Country, B.C. Canada
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Default wind - induced by.....?

....just when you least expect it, a King Air decides to do a tight 180 on the ramp in front of your open hangar.
This is bad.

also bad; when winching onto a ramp or lifting, be sure to rig limit devices.....ask the guys who had a 50 cent switch fail, and continued winching the plane right into the back of the hangar! ( same goes for 'up'.)

Now they have a mechanical disconnect that pulls the power plug if it travels beyond the limit. Simple. saves $$$$$$$$$ (and bad feelings.)
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  #24  
Old 03-19-2013, 03:28 PM
sthopkins sthopkins is offline
 
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Location: Boston
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I don't think that you would have any issue with any of the proposed scenarios.

These lifts can withstand a considerable amount of unbalanced loading - when I was working in a garage, I remember seeing cars lifted (to full height!) that were balanced on one set of legs; the opposite end could be lifted off of the pads by hand.

A few thoughts:

- I'd be hesitant to add the complexity of a cable system to lift the tail, and don't think it's really necessary. A T-shaped bracket (build solidly but not too heavily) would do the trick.

- Most of these lifts use only one motor (two vertical lead screws connected by a chain) so you don't have to worry about uneven lifting.

- I would try to reverse the arrangement so that the posts are behind the wings - better balance and a shorter arm on your tailwheel holder. As drawn, you may be well served to balance the other side of the lift with a little bit of sand. This may eliminate the need for braces to the hangar wall.

I'd be glad to help with the math if you need to get down to a better level of detail.
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  #25  
Old 03-19-2013, 07:30 PM
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G3i Ignition G3i Ignition is offline
 
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Thomas's lift,
Built this for $3,010.00. It was a fun project. Runs on 12 volt battery.
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  #26  
Old 03-20-2013, 07:00 AM
DeltaRomeo DeltaRomeo is offline
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Location: Highland Village, TX
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Default Update to the hangar lift idea:

Brown line is a steel channel structure that runs back to the tailwheel, bolted to the car lift. Gray square is a concrete counterweight that can be moved fore/aft and bolted into place. 2-post 9,000 pound car lift is $1,300-$1,600 and has all the modern locking safety features. Channel removable w/a wheel on the 'concrete end' for rolling around the hangar (for when you need to lift a car for maintenance. Move the weight to the 'RV position' in the hottest parts of the summer and 'Cub position' in the coldest parts of the winter.

The lift is bolted both the floor and the hangar frame via crossbeam.

Thoughts?

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Last edited by DeltaRomeo : 03-20-2013 at 07:35 AM.
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  #27  
Old 03-20-2013, 09:51 AM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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Looks better than the cable/pulley/sling setup.
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VAF 909

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Flying as of 12/4/2010

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  #28  
Old 03-20-2013, 09:59 AM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeltaRomeo View Post
Brown line is a steel channel structure that runs back to the tailwheel, bolted to the car lift. Gray square is a concrete counterweight that can be moved fore/aft and bolted into place. 2-post 9,000 pound car lift is $1,300-$1,600 and has all the modern locking safety features. Channel removable w/a wheel on the 'concrete end' for rolling around the hangar (for when you need to lift a car for maintenance. Move the weight to the 'RV position' in the hottest parts of the summer and 'Cub position' in the coldest parts of the winter.

The lift is bolted both the floor and the hangar frame via crossbeam.

Thoughts?

Stupid idea deleted...
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Last edited by Brantel : 03-20-2013 at 10:16 AM.
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  #29  
Old 03-20-2013, 10:10 AM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brantel View Post
Looks like you have room to just find the CG of the airplane with the tail down. Just roll it fwd until the CG is over the post. No weight needed!
Pretty sure the wing/post interface will prevent this
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VAF 909

Rv-10, N210LM.

Flying as of 12/4/2010

Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011

Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.

"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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  #30  
Old 03-20-2013, 10:16 AM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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Yes you are correct...I feel so stupid! Duuuuuu......
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Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
Check out my RV-10 builder's BLOG
RV-10, #41942, N?????, Project Sold
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
Like EAA Chapter 1494 on Facebook
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