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02-25-2013, 10:16 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: LaVista, NE
Posts: 60
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PIREP on new heat muff
Maybe this isn't a 'new' heat muff, but I can't determine if any of the existing posts are for this or the soup can style heat muffs. I can?t even find it on Van?s site with the part numbers. This thing was in my firewall forward kit I just got the other day and was wondering how well it worked and if you would still recommend a soup in can series with it or if it is pretty good on its own. Or, if you did any other mods with it. There are both cabin heat and carb heat outlets on it.
Thanks!
Keywords for the next person trying to find this:
EX-00001
EX-00008
OP-54
__________________
Chris Halfman
La Vista, NE
-7A, 300+ hours on the Hobbs, ECi O-360 185 hp, GA200L Whirlwind prop
Anything I post on here may not be the best way, the right way, the only way, or even an accepted way to do something, but it's how I did it. Use the information accordingly.
Last edited by chrishalfman : 02-25-2013 at 11:01 PM.
Reason: Sorry moderators-figuring out how to post photos! :) Finally got it!
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02-26-2013, 08:28 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Mahomet, Illinois
Posts: 2,195
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Wow!
That looks really GOOD. I've never seen a heat muff like that before. It looks to be at least three notches better than the old cheapo standard.
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Terry Ruprecht
RV-9A Tip-up; IO-320 D2A
S. James cowl/plenum
(Dues paid thru Nov '18)
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02-26-2013, 08:36 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,256
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Where does this go? Over the two pipes underneath on a cross-over system?
Some pics of the installation would be nice to see...this does look good, compared to the soup can...
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Steve "Flying Scotsman"
Santa Clarita, CA
PP-ASEL, ASES, Instrument Airplane
RV-7A N660WS flying!
#8,000
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02-26-2013, 10:47 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flying Scotsman
Where does this go? Over the two pipes underneath on a cross-over system?
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Yes, but it will only work on the exhaust system it is sold with.
I have been flying a pre-production prototype version on my airplane for about 2 years and it works very well. Produces a good RPM drop with carb heat applied, and heats the air quite well for cabin heat.
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02-26-2013, 12:17 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ashland, OR
Posts: 2,561
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heat muff
Looks really good, but also looks kinda heavy. Actually, it looks really heavy.
Is it stainless steel, or aluminum?
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Steve Smith
Aeronautical Engineer
RV-8 N825RV
IO-360 A1A
WW 200RV
"The Magic Carpet"
Hobbs 625
LS6-15/18W sailplane SOLD
bought my old LS6-A back!! 
VAF donation Jan 2020
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02-26-2013, 12:43 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scsmith
Looks really good, but also looks kinda heavy. Actually, it looks really heavy.
Is it stainless steel, or aluminum?
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It is aluminum.
It is heavier than a single Robbins style muff but not to bad.
Performance wise, think of it as replacing 2 1/2 - 3 Robbins style muffs for equivalent performance.
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02-26-2013, 05:04 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: LaVista, NE
Posts: 60
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Thanks for your reply, Scott! It looks like it should work pretty good-have both pipes to add heat and the baffles probably slow the air down and give it a good tumble as it passes through.
I'm guessing you didn't put anything in it (especially if you use the carb heat). As in-I've heard people mention putting stainless chore boys in the old style to slow down the air and give it more surface area to transfer heat. It's a well-made piece, but then it needs to be 'air tight' to some degree.
Steve-I'd post an install picture, but it'll be a while! Still finishing the canopy. 
__________________
Chris Halfman
La Vista, NE
-7A, 300+ hours on the Hobbs, ECi O-360 185 hp, GA200L Whirlwind prop
Anything I post on here may not be the best way, the right way, the only way, or even an accepted way to do something, but it's how I did it. Use the information accordingly.
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02-26-2013, 07:38 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
Posts: 2,246
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Chris, any time you feel like taking a break from all the canopy work, feel free to come on over and help with my wings and tanks.  The beer's cold. I'll even return the favor.
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Dale
Omaha, NE
RV-12 # 222 N980KM "Screamin' Canary" (bought flying)
Fisher Celebrity (under construction)
Previous RV-7 project (sold)
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02-26-2013, 07:45 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrishalfman
Thanks for your reply, Scott! It looks like it should work pretty good-have both pipes to add heat and the baffles probably slow the air down and give it a good tumble as it passes through.
I'm guessing you didn't put anything in it (especially if you use the carb heat). As in-I've heard people mention putting stainless chore boys in the old style to slow down the air and give it more surface area to transfer heat. It's a well-made piece, but then it needs to be 'air tight' to some degree.
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The baffles are designed so that the air flow has to cross from one side of the pair of pipes, to the other side, three times, as it passes through the heat muff.
As a result, nothing else is needed inside.
The way it fits together on the pipes, it is very air tight.
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02-26-2013, 08:37 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 374
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Anxious to see a picture of this one. Seems it could solve two problems on the airplane (limited heating and limited carb heat).
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