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  #1  
Old 02-13-2013, 03:17 PM
RFazio RFazio is offline
 
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Default RV-4 Spar Splice Plates

My friend steve, totally un-computer capable, purchased a partially completed 4 kit. He got it for a great price and has been working on it for about a year. He's to the point where he wanted to fit the wings, and finds out that he has two of the four spar splice plates. We called the original builder and he has no idea where they are, so we decided to get new ones. We ordered two plates from Vans and they came today without holes. I knew they were match drilled and kind of figured this was going to be the case. Has anyone gone through this? What is the procedure to get the two new plates drilled properly? We have the upper forward plate and lower rear plate drilled. I'm thinking of using the two drilled plates to match drill the new ones on a milling machine with turned bushings to start the first small hole. Then keep going up bushed for each size. All ideas welcome.
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  #2  
Old 02-13-2013, 03:39 PM
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rocketbob rocketbob is offline
 
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For my RV-6 rebuild I ordered a new center section from Phlogiston, which even though they were supposed to be drilled to exact dimensions I found them off. What I would do: take the two you have and duplicate the holes and not even do it on the mill. Just a drill press would be fine. Drilling with a twist drill is not exact so I would make up some bushings out of some fairly hard steel and pilot drill the holes, finish drill to a close size then ream using the old splice plates clamped to the new ones.

I think you'd find that your splice plates will bolt in either top or bottom on the spars and are probably an exact match. I think when they drilled them back then they drilled all four in a stack, then used those to drill the holes in the spar. And if thats the case then it should be just a matter of duplicating them exactly.
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Last edited by rocketbob : 02-13-2013 at 03:47 PM.
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  #3  
Old 02-13-2013, 03:52 PM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
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Bob - did you talk to Wayne directly and did he know what you where trying to do? I know he has successfully done this for many who have lost thier plates or whatever. I am surprised it did not work out.
Anyway, I would call Phlogiston and speak with Wayne. He is a great guy and could at least guide you to the best way to accomplish this although what Bob suggests is exactly how I would envision doing it.
The beauty of the older designed spars is that you can do this in the field and the tolerances are not as tight like in the new spar design.
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  #4  
Old 02-13-2013, 04:07 PM
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rocketbob rocketbob is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonJay View Post
Bob - did you talk to Wayne directly and did he know what you where trying to do? I know he has successfully done this for many who have lost thier plates or whatever. I am surprised it did not work out.
Anyway, I would call Phlogiston and speak with Wayne. He is a great guy and could at least guide you to the best way to accomplish this although what Bob suggests is exactly how I would envision doing it.
The beauty of the older designed spars is that you can do this in the field and the tolerances are not as tight like in the new spar design.
Jon, only some of the holes were off in the new center section, not sure why. Some of them will have to be oblonged (is that a word??) which shouldn't be a problem. Not in the center splice plates parts but the AN3 bolt holes.
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N9187P PA-24-260B Comanche, flying
N678X F1 Rocket, under const.
N244BJ RV-6 "victim of SNF tornado" 1200+ hrs, rebuilding
N8155F C150 flying
N7925P PA-24-250 Comanche, restoring
Not a thing I own is stock.
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  #5  
Old 02-13-2013, 09:35 PM
tturner tturner is online now
 
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Richard

I bought a partially finished RV-6 and had the same problem. I have a vertical mill and made some custom drill bushings. I was able to match drill in a three step process, small drill bit, larger bit almost to final size and then reamer to finish. It worked out very well. I think I still have the bushings. Call me if you want more details. 770-639-6900
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  #6  
Old 02-14-2013, 04:40 AM
RFazio RFazio is offline
 
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Default Thanks for the responces

Thank so much guys for the responces. Tommy, we may call you. Did you use one plate as the template for the one you were drilling? That's what we figured we would do. We were going to assemble the wings and plates on saw horses with a bench top drill press setup between the wings. But if a single plate will give us the template that seems much easier. I'm thinking if we compare the two plates we have, and they match, we pretty sure the two new ones should also match.
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  #7  
Old 02-14-2013, 08:57 AM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketbob View Post
......

I think you'd find that your splice plates will bolt in either top or bottom on the spars and are probably an exact match. I think when they drilled them back then they drilled all four in a stack, then used those to drill the holes in the spar. And if thats the case then it should be just a matter of duplicating them exactly.
Not according to my RV-6 plans...

The first hole is 3/4 inch from the centerline on the top plates, and 13/16 from the centerline on the bottom plates.

I imagine the -4 would be similar, but check your plans before you assume that all four plates are identical. Sort out top and bottom if applicable.
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  #8  
Old 02-14-2013, 01:12 PM
penguin penguin is offline
 
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You will find that the steel part from a drill stop will be almost an exact fit in the larger holes in the splice plate. I had to re-make some of the spar booms on my 4 and used the originals as templates to allow everything to be clamped up and pilot drilled. I drilled 1/64" undersize and reamed to full size in assembly (although one hole must be reamed on the bench to hold everything together ...)

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  #9  
Old 02-14-2013, 01:17 PM
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rocketbob rocketbob is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
Not according to my RV-6 plans...

The first hole is 3/4 inch from the centerline on the top plates, and 13/16 from the centerline on the bottom plates.

I imagine the -4 would be similar, but check your plans before you assume that all four plates are identical. Sort out top and bottom if applicable.
Going off recent memory my F1 splice plates are all the same....all four. Really not sure what the reasoning is on the -6 to have them spaced different. Since the F1 is based off the -4 I would think the splice plate dimensions are the same.
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Bob Japundza CFI A&PIA
N9187P PA-24-260B Comanche, flying
N678X F1 Rocket, under const.
N244BJ RV-6 "victim of SNF tornado" 1200+ hrs, rebuilding
N8155F C150 flying
N7925P PA-24-250 Comanche, restoring
Not a thing I own is stock.

Last edited by rocketbob : 02-14-2013 at 01:26 PM.
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  #10  
Old 02-14-2013, 01:40 PM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketbob View Post
Going off recent memory my F1 splice plates are all the same....all four. Really not sure what the reasoning is on the -6 to have them spaced different. Since the F1 is based off the -4 I would think the splice plate dimensions are the same.
It appears that extra 1/16 is caused by the dihedral. The bolt spacing differs (1.25 vs 1.125) for the first 4 bolts or so of the spar and the 1/16 extra is a "left over" dimension.

I'm betting the RV-4 is closer to the -6 than the F-1 on the bolt spacing.

Anyone got any -4 plans to check?

It does make a difference if you need to fabricate two extra splice plates - hopefully the OP has one upper and one lower...
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