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  #171  
Old 02-10-2013, 08:27 PM
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SmilingJack SmilingJack is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Hilton Head Island
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Brian,

I'm sure you did this, but since so many are following this, does the new TT kits come with this SB? I installed the screw retainer on both of mine.

http://trutrakap.com/forum/attachmen...5&d=1276108555

Also, I will volunteer to pay the $200 increase in hangar payments.....you know....now that you have that nice panel

I'm thinking $200 is cheap for all the fun I'll have
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RV-8 (SOLD)
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Last edited by SmilingJack : 02-10-2013 at 08:29 PM.
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  #172  
Old 02-10-2013, 09:32 PM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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My servo's have a nylon locknut on the output shaft. I think they redesigned them a while back...

Picture from a post made by Paul Dye:

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RV-10, #41942, N?????, Project Sold
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
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  #173  
Old 02-11-2013, 08:15 PM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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First a crappy pic of the pitot/static connections.

I heated the sharper bends to allow the tube to bend and take a set. Works good and prevents having extra connections in the circuit....



Today I finally decided to tackle getting all the way into the tailcone.... Not a small task for a man my size!

Anyway, I needed to route and secure the remote compass wires and to remove the Dynon remote compass and OAT probe. The OAT probe wiring was zip tied all along the stringers and one of the aft bulkheads so I had to get in there to cut all of them since I could not reach em.

Recently I saw a post on here about using packing peanuts in a bag to serve as a load spreading surface to lay a board on to support one's weight while in the tail cone.

This works great! I stopped by the UPS store and got a trash bag full of peanuts and then on to Lowes for a 2x8 pine board. I cut the board to 5' and split the peanuts up into two smaller bags.

I put the peanuts down on the tail cone floor and spread them out as best I could and layed the board on top of them. I then crawled all the way in and did my work without any damage to the airplane! The peanuts work great to spread the load evenly without any point stress!

So I went on to remove the Dynon stuff, and route and secure the new wires for the G3X remote compass. Easy as pie. Yeah right!

I made my own mount for the GMU44. I used stainless hardware to secure it all.

Here is the fruit of my labor:



That white stuff is compound left over from when my painter buffed the paint...I also gave my vertical stab mounting on the front spar a good inspection for cracks!

And I was rewarded with a compass reading on the PFD!

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Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
Check out my RV-10 builder's BLOG
RV-10, #41942, N?????, Project Sold
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
Like EAA Chapter 1494 on Facebook

Last edited by Brantel : 02-17-2013 at 08:50 PM.
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  #174  
Old 02-12-2013, 07:40 PM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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Today I had a little bit before the EAA chapter meeting so I decided to tackle getting the pitch servo swapped out and the plug re-mapped and to remove the Dynon remote compass from it's mount.

I had a couple RV buddies that showed up (to make fun of me)....help....me with tools and stuff while I assumed the position!

One of them decided to take a couple pics of me, glad it was from this end and not the other!





Working in this area is not too bad since I have learned the ritual for getting in there and out. It took some time to develop this skill! The flap motor box and that center brace behind the baggage bulkhead are the two challenges for fat people. Last night I was all the way in up to almost where the camera is in these pics!

The servo was swapped and tested before we knew it thanks to Tim and Bob's help with handing me tools. The hard part is the safety wire in that area on those three mount bolts is a pain to do and fiddling with the connector as well. The only issue is the servo runs backwards in this mechanical configuration but that is an easy fix by removing a jumper at the connector on the brain box.
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Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
Check out my RV-10 builder's BLOG
RV-10, #41942, N?????, Project Sold
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
Like EAA Chapter 1494 on Facebook
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  #175  
Old 02-16-2013, 08:28 PM
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Friday evening I got the OAT probe mounted in the inboard most wing inspection cover plate on the pilot side. I was able to run the wire in the wing conduit.

I got almost finished with ripping out the Dynon capacitive converters and replacing them with the Princeton units. Got it all done out on the wing roots for both sides.

25degF. In the hangar this morning with an expected high of 30deg so I spent some time rounding up some propane and cleaning up my tank mounted 45,000btu IR heater. This thing is the only way I can work in that cold!

Today I started out with putting the wing root fairing back on on the copilot side. Had left that unfinished last night.

Next I moved on to securing the Princeton converter boxes and the small coax that goes out to the tanks. I just double sided taped the boxes to the sides of the fuse up behind the panel on both sides.

After that I moved on to installing the EMS sensor harness with included the landing of the OAT probe wires.

Had to increase the size of the grommet and drill out a grommet shield on the firewall to get it in. The G3X system uses all shielded cables for the sensors where the Dynon did not so the harness is a little larger in diameter.

Got the #2 & #4 CHT,EGT probes swapped out as well as got the fuel flow transducer connected. Tried to use the Dynon carb temp probe but it does not seem to work with the G3X. I guess I will be buying another $75 probe.

Hopefully tomorrow I can get the rest of the engine sensors wired up.

Getting close now!
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Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
Check out my RV-10 builder's BLOG
RV-10, #41942, N?????, Project Sold
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
Like EAA Chapter 1494 on Facebook
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  #176  
Old 02-16-2013, 09:13 PM
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tkatc tkatc is offline
 
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I get a sense not a lot of people post to this thread because they are in awe. But I'm sure MANY are watching to see your next move!
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  #177  
Old 02-17-2013, 05:15 AM
humptybump humptybump is offline
 
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Tony - in my case, it's because I am learning that a panel upgrade is no small task.

Brian - at least for me, this thread has been both "motivation" and "sobering".

Just yesterday, I spent no less than 6 hours trying to get battery indicator lights to tell me the right things
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  #178  
Old 02-17-2013, 06:12 AM
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ColoCardinal ColoCardinal is offline
 
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Quote:
in my case, it's because I am learning that a panel upgrade is no small task.
. . and Brian is making it look easy!
I've spent several days now trying to figure out why my G3X won't "talk" to my SL40 or the GDL39. Grrrrr
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  #179  
Old 02-17-2013, 07:58 AM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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Thanks guys....

In many ways I think this is taking too long but my time working on the project is limited by priority #1 family, priority #2 real work, and priority #3 the weather (I am getting soft these days)...

Something that helps is the fact that this is not my first rodeo. The original build plus all of the smaller upgrades that I did in the past to the original panel have helped a bunch with knowing what to look out for. I am also an electrical automation engineer with almost 20 years of experience working with all kinds of gizmos and critical signal wiring.

Another thing that has really helped this project be a success so far is the awesome documentation provided by Garmin. The manuals are as good as they get in this business. I assume the G3X, GMA240 and GTX23ES manuals are modeled after their certified products so I guess that is why they are so detailed.

The more I play with the G3X system the more I like it. Everything is very intuitive and you almost don't need the user's manual to figure out how to configure and use it.

I get a smile every time I flip the master on and hit that avionics master to see all of the panel come alive. The integration with the VP-X Pro is simply amazing. I can see why all the manufacturers decided to take on the task of adding VP-X integration to their systems. The capabilities included in a VP-X system integrated with the avionics package is unbelievable. I am still amazed at the fact that this level of technology is available to us in the experimental market for the price it is. The build quality of the VP-X is nothing short of excellent. I love to be able to go into the MFD and turn on and off any device at will as well as to be able to see each device's current draw in real time. Calibrating the things like trim and flap position indicators is super easy. The built in features like incremental flap position automation, trim speed vs airspeed, runaway trim protection, automatic wig-wag etc. are icing on the cake!

Steve made a comment on another post that they are narrowing in on a new update with many new features. I am like a dog waiting on a treat in anticipation of what they have coming!

Hopefully today in between church services I will be able to get the engine part of this list of to-do items completed:

Items remaining:
  • Swap out the Dynon EGT/CHT probes and connect to the EMS harness on #1 & #3
  • Swap out the Dynon pressure and oil temp sensors and connect to the EMS harness
  • Connect the tach wire to the P-mag
  • Mount the Delta Pop UAT antenna and connect it to the GDL-39
  • Reinstall the engine control cables
  • Clean up the airplane, vac out all of the crud, complete the remainder of the annual condition inspection (been working on this as I go)
  • Re-install all the covers, seat pans, fairings, seat belts and cushions
  • Re-install the canopy
  • Run the engine to test for leaks and to check new EMS system out.
  • Calibrate the AHRS, Magnetometer, Flaps and Trim
  • Go FLY!

This has been an awesome project. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel now. Can't wait to enjoy it.
__________________
Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
Check out my RV-10 builder's BLOG
RV-10, #41942, N?????, Project Sold
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
Like EAA Chapter 1494 on Facebook

Last edited by Brantel : 02-17-2013 at 09:26 AM.
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  #180  
Old 02-17-2013, 09:15 AM
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jthocker jthocker is offline
 
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Brian,
Just a heads up, in addition to the Dynon carb sensor not working on my plane either, I could not get the Dynon amp shunt to work, so I bought the Garmin one and it works great. For your comparison, I had exactly 200 hours in the latest project, from start of disassembly of the RV7A tip up, to test flight. That includes No glitches. You're doing great!
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