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08-23-2012, 05:08 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Davenport, IA
Posts: 1,390
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I was flying a Cessna 140, circa 1946 before the RV-12 and it had no evidence of corrosion. Yes, it was based for its life in the midwest. On the 12, I primed a minimal amount. Rib flanges with a small roller, but, did not prime the wing walk.
Is priming necessary? Nope! The plane will outlive just about all of us. If I build another, will not waste my time.
Ask Dick what he did near the factory in Oregon.
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08-23-2012, 05:28 PM
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Spring Hill Fl
Posts: 734
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My View
Marty I agree with you 99% of the time.
Three things have to be considered
Where the plane will live, how old you are and resale.
I live in Florida and the airport in Clearwater is on the water's edge.
I think priming if you are near salt air is a good idea, otherwise not so much
My view
One more link
http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Air...aft-design.htm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MartySantic
I was flying a Cessna 140, circa 1946 before the RV-12 and it had no evidence of corrosion. Yes, it was based for its life in the midwest. On the 12, I primed a minimal amount. Rib flanges with a small roller, but, did not prime the wing walk.
Is priming necessary? Nope! The plane will outlive just about all of us. If I build another, will not waste my time.
Ask Dick what he did near the factory in Oregon.
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Last edited by joedallas : 08-23-2012 at 06:18 PM.
Reason: Added Link
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01-26-2013, 08:39 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Port Orange, Fl
Posts: 476
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I asked this in another thread but thought I could get more opinions here. For those of you who used primer whether everywhere or just the rivet lines, did you have any issues getting the blind rivets into the holes? I'm having a difficult time getting rivets through thicker material like the HS spars. If you guys had no trouble, could you please explain your technique. I'm at the point of skinning the HS and don't want to damage anything.
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01-27-2013, 03:56 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 663
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You can use an icepick to line up the holes but also to clear the holes of primer. Just turn it a couple of times and you should have no problems with inserting the blind rivets. Or take another rivet, some rivets are just a little bigger and hard to get in some holes.
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01-27-2013, 04:22 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Shalimar, Florida
Posts: 10
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What Parts to Prime
I live in the panhandle of Florida and will keep my RV-12 in a hangar about 25 miles North of the Gulf of Mexico. I decided to prime all the internal RV-12 parts because of the high humidity in the summer, and because (in a few years) I want to be able to sell my RV-12 to a buyer in Florida who may be near salt water.
I used the Sherwin Williams P60-G2 wash primer recommended by Van's Aircraft. Bought one gallon of P60-G2 and two gallons of S-W Catalyst Reducer R7K44. I mixed these one part P60-G2 and two parts R7K44. Just wiped down the parts with lacquer thinner, then sprayed a thin coat of the mix using a Harbor Freight 66871 touch-up spray gun, while wearing a 07193 3M dual cartridge respirator and Harbor Freight nitrile gloves.
Cost two years ago for everything (primer, catalyst, lacquer thinner, spray gun, respirator, and gloves) was about $250 and the 1 gal primer plus 2 gal catalyst quantities was adequate to do all the internal parts and other external parts needed (such as brackets). I would go this route again because the P60-G2 is easy to use and cures/dries in just a few minutes adding very little weight to the parts, and it does not plug up any of the rivet holes.
I used T-pins from a fabric shop to pin the parts to cardboard from the kit boxes. Spray a thin coat on one side, wait about 5 minutes, turn parts over and spray other side. Do a "batch" of several parts at one time.
Be sure to clean up the spray gun parts with lacquer thinner after each use or it will "stick" itself together--and you will wish you had cleaned it up!
Cordially,
Fred Carnes
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