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  #31  
Old 01-21-2013, 10:32 AM
Jason Krause Jason Krause is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Glendale, AZ
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Default possible replacement

I agree, it's very rare occurrence and that weld should handle the load without worry.

Here is a possible future replacement.
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=95453
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  #32  
Old 01-22-2013, 10:13 AM
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vfrazier vfrazier is offline
 
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Location: Mount Vernon, IN
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Default

And here is another possible replacement: http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/sto...roducts_id=413

We use a high tech plastic bushing. Simple and superior to the standard bronze bushings. We have been supplying these for over 5 years now. Long wearing, easily replaceable, and no known problems as long as you don't powder coat the part and heat damage the bushing!

http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/sto..._image&pID=413
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1-888-8FLYBOY (1-888-835-9269)

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Last edited by vfrazier : 01-22-2013 at 10:18 AM.
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  #33  
Old 01-22-2013, 11:20 AM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,435
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Krause View Post
Here is a possible future replacement.
In the photos the area that failed in this instance look identical to the construction of the part that you're referencing.

Dave
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  #34  
Old 01-22-2013, 02:44 PM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
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Location: Battleground
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Paule View Post
In the photos the area that failed in this instance look identical to the construction of the part that you're referencing.

Dave
They have the same joint as the Van's one that failed. Really, really rare to see this. I have never seen or heard of one failing here.
The tailpost upgrades are offering a promise of less maintenance, so they are just trying to make people aware there are other options. This person may be in the market for a new tailwheel post if he does not repair this one. Marketing opportunity.
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  #35  
Old 01-23-2013, 08:09 PM
pawicker pawicker is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Bedford, TX
Posts: 1
Default break

Similar break last November during landing

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  #36  
Old 01-24-2013, 08:35 AM
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vfrazier vfrazier is offline
 
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Location: Mount Vernon, IN
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Default

Many of us do a dye penetrant check on the lower engine mount/gear leg area. Perhaps checking the tailwheel mounting socket would be a good area to inspect once in a while?

Here's one from Grainger that should work:

dye penetrant test kit


You might also take a look at your tailwheel mounting socket welds. As Dan Horton pointed out, these are thick walled steel parts. The weld beads should be substantial. Here's a good example: http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/sto..._image&pID=413

If your welds look puny, it is a very easy thing to fix by re-welding, or even adding a triangular gusset for "belt and suspenders" protection. I don't think the gusset is necessary if the weld is beefy though.

If you decide to re-weld, try not to overheat your bronze bushing. Stuff a hot dog into the hole to soak up the heat. When you're done welding, the hot dog will be cooked. Lunch is ready. Enjoy.
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www.f1aircraft.com
F1 Rocket and F4 Raider components
1-888-F1AIRCRAFT (1-888-312-4727)
www.flyboyaccessories.com
RV and Rocket Accessories, Tailwheels, Tools, & More
1-888-8FLYBOY (1-888-835-9269)

F4 Raider - under construction
F1-H Rocket "Crazy Horse" - sold
RV-4 "Chief Pontiac" - sold in 1994, purchased in 2018

Last edited by vfrazier : 01-24-2013 at 08:44 AM.
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  #37  
Old 01-24-2013, 10:15 AM
JonJay's Avatar
JonJay JonJay is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battleground
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vfrazier View Post
Many of us do a dye penetrant check on the lower engine mount/gear leg area. Perhaps checking the tailwheel mounting socket would be a good area to inspect once in a while?

Here's one from Grainger that should work:

dye penetrant test kit


You might also take a look at your tailwheel mounting socket welds. As Dan Horton pointed out, these are thick walled steel parts. The weld beads should be substantial. Here's a good example: http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/sto..._image&pID=413

If your welds look puny, it is a very easy thing to fix by re-welding, or even adding a triangular gusset for "belt and suspenders" protection. I don't think the gusset is necessary if the weld is beefy though.

If you decide to re-weld, try not to overheat your bronze bushing. Stuff a hot dog into the hole to soak up the heat. When you're done welding, the hot dog will be cooked. Lunch is ready. Enjoy.
I the only time I have done a die penetrant it has been on bare metal. Would it not require you to strip any coatings off before using this kit?
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  #38  
Old 01-24-2013, 10:35 AM
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rocketbob rocketbob is offline
 
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Location: 8I3
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Rewelding will shrink the ID by a considerable amount. Usually when welding stuff like this if it can't fit back in the jaws of my lathe I set my mill up with a boring head/bar and shave a few thousandths off the ID to true the hole again.

The bushing should be pressed out to reweld. If its an oillite bushing have fun welding if its still in there, they tend to catch on fire readily.
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  #39  
Old 01-24-2013, 11:37 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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If a welded socket makes you nervous try an Aviation Products tailwheel. Likewise, there's nothing to stop one of our vendors from making aftermarket sockets from a CNC'd chunk of 7075 biillet.

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  #40  
Old 01-24-2013, 01:25 PM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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Default

With the fork welded on...............................
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