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  #41  
Old 01-17-2013, 10:16 PM
Strasnuts Strasnuts is offline
 
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I guess if the jam nut was safetied to the pushrod it would stay tight but couldn't the pushrod just rotate with the jam nut until they both ran out of threads?
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  #42  
Old 01-18-2013, 08:05 AM
douglassmt douglassmt is offline
 
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Default Hmmm

Good point. I assumed that if the nut was tight the rod end wouldn't turn but that may not be correct. However, I could see that if the nut got loose, which it could do even if safety wired, then the rod end could rotate freely in both the push tube end and the nut. Maybe not the way to go.

For clarity, I was planning to safety the drilled nut to the end of the push tube.
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  #43  
Old 01-18-2013, 03:26 PM
mdaniell mdaniell is offline
 
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Location: Albury, NSW, Australia
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Default Nyloc

This may sound stupid but would Nylok nuts instead of jam nuts at both ends of the pushrod work?
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  #44  
Old 01-18-2013, 03:33 PM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdaniell View Post
This may sound stupid but would Nylok nuts instead of jam nuts at both ends of the pushrod work?
The better equivalent would be a nylok insert in the threaded portion of the rod end.

It is usually a listed option, but my guess is it would be non-stocked and expensive (ie custom made) for a few...
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  #45  
Old 01-18-2013, 03:58 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Seems like what we want is a simple safety measure to add in the field.

The challenge is how to stop the big pushrod tube from rotating clockwise onto the long rod end shank, which can allow the rod end shank on the other end to become unthreaded.

Try this.

Add another nut to the shank. Spin it all the way onto the shank until it bottoms on the last thread, near the head. Install the pushrod, adjust to length, then measure the length of the threaded shank showing between the new nut and the original jamb nut. Obtain a short length of thinwall steel or aluminum tubing with an inner diameter as necessary for a slip fit on the rod end shank. Cut it to the correct length to fit between the nuts and install it there. Again check pushrod adjustment......control travel as necessary while maintaining enough rod end threads in each end so that even with the jamb nuts loose the pushrod cannot rotate and unthread at either end. Tighten and mark the jam nuts.

If you're the nervous type you can sleeve both rod ends.

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  #46  
Old 01-18-2013, 05:14 PM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Dan - great idea, but couldn't we make it a little simpler and not even install the extra nut?

The added sleeve can just sit loosely in place and do it's job. Even if it allows a turn or two back off of the rod end, it will remain safe.

In some cases the extra nut may interfere with the bellcrank end.
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  #47  
Old 01-18-2013, 05:37 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
Dan - great idea, but couldn't we make it a little simpler and not even install the extra nut?
The added sleeve can just sit loosely in place and do it's job. Even if it allows a turn or two back off of the rod end, it will remain safe.
In some cases the extra nut may interfere with the bellcrank end.
I was thinking about tightening the original locknut, then tightening the new locknut against the tube. Thus the assembly is double locked, the tube can't rattle, and even if it all comes loose the pushrod can't unthread. However, as you say, it doesn't need to be that way.

Can't speak about clearance. I seem to have misplaced my RV-10
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