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  #1  
Old 01-05-2013, 08:56 PM
Golf Echo's Avatar
Golf Echo Golf Echo is offline
 
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Default Oblong Holes -- HS-609PP to HS-603PP (rear spar)

Help! I'm kinda freaking out here...

I have match-drilled the left and right side HS skins to their respective substructures. Next, the book has you deburr all the holes. In deburring the holes on the rear spar, I noticed something horrible: oblong holes.

I used a #30 fluted reamer when I match-drilled HS-609PP to HS-603PP. I also used my 6000rpm Sioux drill. In doing some searching and reading of past posts, it now sounds like this was a REALLY bad combination.

In any event, I can't talk to Van's until Monday (which I am certainly planning on doing for a definitive answer). In the mean time, I'm hoping to get some guidance from the wealth of experience and knowledge on VAF.

Am I going to have to scrap the HS-609PPs and HS-603PPs and go shopping at Van's house of replacement parts?

Here's the evidence:



This one looks REALLY bad. This is definitely the worst of it, and perhaps it looks worse in the photo than in person.


Thanks in advance
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  #2  
Old 01-05-2013, 11:14 PM
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Default Some more info...

I see that the Mil Spec (MIL-R-47196A) has a table for maximum diameter limits. I'm not sure if this applies to oblong holes or not...

Anyways, it gives the maximum hole diameter for an AD4 rivet as 0.135".

I measured the holes with my digital calipers, and counted how many holes were larger than 0.135" in the longest dimension of the elliptical hole.
On the right side HS-603PP - 11 of 54 holes were over.
On the left side HS-603PP - 25 of 54 holes were over.

Most of the 'overs' were around 0.136" - 0.138". A couple were as large as 0.144"

For now, I think I'll have a carbonated adult beverage and call it a night... ugh.
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  #3  
Old 01-05-2013, 11:31 PM
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digidocs digidocs is offline
 
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Default

No need to sweat... lots of options to fix this guy.

One serving suggestion:
1. Shoot -4 rivets into all holes <= .135" diameter
2. Drill all other holes up to .143-.146" (#27)
3. Install correct grip CherryMax CR3243 -4 oversize rivets into remaining holes

The CR3243 (available at Spruce) is a 1/8" oversize blind rivet that is usually accepted in certified applications as a direct replacement for a -4 solid rivet. The maximum allowable hole diameter is .146". You can probably set them with your hand puller, but the $39 pneumatic rivet puller for Harbor Freight is so much easier with these larger rivets.

Take care,
David
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  #4  
Old 01-06-2013, 02:29 AM
penguin penguin is offline
 
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Default

Cherrys are a great suggestion. Its also possible to pre-squeeze a rivet to make it slightly fatter to take up the slack. If you have to there is always the option of going to a -5 rivet (use a 3X gun and large bar with two people).

Pete
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  #5  
Old 01-06-2013, 03:51 AM
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Andrew M Andrew M is offline
 
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Default Solid oversize

I personally aviod cherrys. Here is the P.N for oversize solid, think the other "oops" rivet, NAS1242AD universal head and NAS1241AD countersunk.
http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com...s_Oversize.pdf
It's hard to see without a rivet in the hole, but I might be inclined to see if a standard rivet, maybe a half size longer, would go. Just get it to fill up the hole once it's set.
Cherrys are "riskier" to remove if you have problems, and most any DER will tell you to avoid mixing up the type of fasteners in a line because how they flex (or not) differently.
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  #6  
Old 01-06-2013, 04:58 AM
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Walt Walt is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew M View Post
I personally aviod cherrys. Here is the P.N for oversize solid, think the other "oops" rivet, NAS1242AD universal head and NAS1241AD countersunk.
http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com...s_Oversize.pdf
It's hard to see without a rivet in the hole, but I might be inclined to see if a standard rivet, maybe a half size longer, would go. Just get it to fill up the hole once it's set.
Cherrys are "riskier" to remove if you have problems, and most any DER will tell you to avoid mixing up the type of fasteners in a line because how they flex (or not) differently.
Agree with Andrew, fill the ones that are in limits with -4's, step up the rest to either the OS rivet or -5's.
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  #7  
Old 01-06-2013, 06:14 AM
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Default obong holes

I would buy a new rear spar for $22 and make sure the spar doubler is fully rounded to nest into the bend all the way.
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  #8  
Old 01-06-2013, 09:57 AM
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Golf Echo Golf Echo is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt View Post
Agree with Andrew, fill the ones that are in limits with -4's, step up the rest to either the OS rivet or -5's.
Thanks. Any idea if my pneumatic squeezer would handle the OS -4 ?
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  #9  
Old 01-06-2013, 09:59 AM
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Walt Walt is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Golf Echo View Post
Thanks. Any idea if my pneumatic squeezer would handle the OS -4 ?
It will handle the -4 fine and should not have any trouble with OS -4's, but it struggles with -5's
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EXP Aircraft Services LLC
Specializing in RV Condition Inspections, Maintenance, Avionics Upgrades
Dynamic Prop Balancing, Pitot-Static Altmeter/Transponder Certification
FAA Certified Repair Station, AP/IA/FCC GROL, EAA Technical Counselor
Authorized Garmin G3X Dealer/Installer
RV7A built 2004, 1700+ hrs, New Titan IO-370, Bendix Mags
Website: ExpAircraft.com, Email: walt@expaircraft.com, Cell: 972-746-5154
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  #10  
Old 01-06-2013, 10:02 AM
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Golf Echo Golf Echo is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taildrgr View Post
I would buy a new rear spar for $22 and make sure the spar doubler is fully rounded to nest into the bend all the way.
Good thought!

I had rounded the HS-609PPs thoroughly before match-drilling, but when I clecoed them on to match-drill, I accidentally swapped the top and bottom HS-609PP. So, the rounded edges weren't where they were supposed to be. That definitely couldn't have helped.

I'd need to replace both HS-609PPs and both HS-603PPs, so the part bill would be closer to $200. I might just get them to throw the parts in with my wing kit...
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