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07-12-2008, 08:00 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Highland, IL
Posts: 271
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Sliding Canopy Latch Arm
I spent quite a little time getting the latch arm trimed to fit and work properly on my 7A sliding canopy... but that was done with the bubble off the frame. Duh!  Of course, now with the bubble installed it is too loose and will not stay latched.
I made a new one and have it close to trimed, my question is how much "pull" should it exert on the canopy frame? Not enough and it won't stay latched, too much and it will distort the frame. Just wondering.
Larry
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07-12-2008, 08:33 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Peshtigo, Wisconsin
Posts: 768
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Larry:
I would suggest you use the same guideline that is used when setting the force needed to close a quick-release bike wheel.
Make it so that when you first start feeling resistance to latching, the handle should be about 90 degrees from the postion it will be when it is closed.
Error at first on the too tight side, and then file the inside of the latch arm that captures the rollbar ever so slightly until you can close the canopy with no flex being noted. Its a trial and error type of thing.
__________________
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
Peshtigo, WI
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01-05-2013, 04:12 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Marion IA
Posts: 1,095
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C-654-1 Latch Arm - hard to fit
OK - I totally messed up trimming this one. Actually it is OK, but too loose... the canopy can move back about 1/16" when the latch is closed.
I have two questions:
1) The spring seems to pull the latch open, not closed. What did I do wrong? In fact have to hold the handle in the closed position or the spring pulls it open.
2) Any tips on making my next latch arm in the 1st pass?
__________________
Dave Gribble VAF #232
Building RV-9A N149DG (slider, IO-320, IFR)
Restored and Flying Beech Super III N3698Q
Marion IA
Struggling with fiberglass
There is no sport equal to that which aviators enjoy while being carried through the air on great white wings." Wilbur Wright, 1905
Last edited by IowaRV9Dreamer : 01-05-2013 at 04:14 PM.
Reason: typo
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01-05-2013, 04:59 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Roy, Utah
Posts: 1,144
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Make the bottom of the slot in the arm just deep enough so the handle rotates slightly past center when the canopy is latched.
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Five Sierra Fox
RV-9A
Utah
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01-05-2013, 05:07 PM
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Morrison, CO
Posts: 372
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If you're planning on putting weatherstripping in between you may wish to make it looser still. Second chance? 
__________________
Carl - - Morrison, CO
N16CB RV7A
Airworthiness cert issued 12/24
best X-mas present I could have hoped for!
paid 'til 10-19
Last edited by ColoCardinal : 01-05-2013 at 05:14 PM.
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01-05-2013, 05:34 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Marion IA
Posts: 1,095
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canopy latch spring
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve
Make the bottom of the slot in the arm just deep enough so the handle rotates slightly past center when the canopy is latched.
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Somehow this is my problem. There is no "over center" to it at all and the spring doesn't do what it should.
What is the spring for?
In the closed "stretched out" picture from the plans, it is pulling on both the latch arm and the handle. The latch arm can't move toward the spring (because of the pin in the roll bar) but the handle rotates freely, clockwise in this view from above. That is what is happening to me - the spring pulls the handle towards the unlocked position even when the latch arm in in place.
__________________
Dave Gribble VAF #232
Building RV-9A N149DG (slider, IO-320, IFR)
Restored and Flying Beech Super III N3698Q
Marion IA
Struggling with fiberglass
There is no sport equal to that which aviators enjoy while being carried through the air on great white wings." Wilbur Wright, 1905
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01-05-2013, 06:43 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Hampshire, IL
Posts: 276
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Sent you a PM
__________________
Ed Martin
Bluskydtl
RV7
DKB
Donations 1/19 & 6/19
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01-06-2013, 08:16 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 488
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the spring has nothing to do with
the over center function of the latch. It is only there to open the arm fully so that the notch in the arm will reach thepin on the front rollover weldment while engaging the latch. The over center action comes from the relative depths of the notch in c654 and the notch at the end of the arm. Sounds like the notch in the arm that swallows the big pin #667 isnt deep enough to allow over center latching...
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Terry F.
RV 7A N457RV
250 hours and lovin it! 
Southern Nevada EAA Chapter 1300 - www.eaa1300.org
Paid VAF 03/17
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01-06-2013, 08:24 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Marion IA
Posts: 1,095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frazitl
Sounds like the notch in the arm that swallows the big pin #667 isnt deep enough to allow over center latching...
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You might be right Terry - I didn't do much with that notch.. just opened its width up a little allow teh 667 bushing to fit inside. Maybe I'll deepen it and see what happens. Ed sent me some awesome video of how its supposed to work and I'm not getting any over-center action at all.
__________________
Dave Gribble VAF #232
Building RV-9A N149DG (slider, IO-320, IFR)
Restored and Flying Beech Super III N3698Q
Marion IA
Struggling with fiberglass
There is no sport equal to that which aviators enjoy while being carried through the air on great white wings." Wilbur Wright, 1905
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01-06-2013, 10:56 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 626
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I too thought I had this task done until I mounted the windscreen (before glassing it in.) At first it closed nice and tight, but with the windscreen on, I could see and hear it distorting the windscreen when I latched it. I figured I did not want the windscreen creaking and moving every time I latched the canopy. I removed just a slight bit of material from the C-654-1 latch where it contacts the latch pin when in the closed and latched position. This did loosen it up a good bit, so if you try that method, go easy - a very very little bit of removed material goes along way here.
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