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12-09-2012, 09:26 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 963
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Aileron Trim - Manual or Electric?
What about Aileron Trim? Should I go manual or electric?
Thanks,
Bob
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Bob Hassel
NM
Subscription Paid for 2020
Home is where the hanger is...
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12-10-2012, 08:53 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Twin Falls, ID
Posts: 683
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The manual trim works great and is cheap and simple. Plus you don't have an ugly tab hanging off the aileron. Don
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RV 7 N212MD Flying as of 12/22/2007
Backcountry/TCOW Super Cub flying 03/12/2011
Next project?
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12-10-2012, 09:13 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: KSLC
Posts: 4,021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yakdriver
The manual trim works great and is cheap and simple. Plus you don't have an ugly tab hanging off the aileron. Don
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Except, everyone that flew my RV6A with that little tab hanging off the aileron...........preferred the "feel" of it. It was also electric. Their planes had the bias system. I know that "biased" spring trim is usually used these days, for it's simplicity. But if I was ever to do it again, I'd always incorporate a tab of one form or another. I've never liked bias springs.
edit: PS.... my (elec) elevator & aileron were operated from a four way hat switch on the stick. Worked better, than I ever could have imagined.
L.Adamson
Last edited by L.Adamson : 12-10-2012 at 09:15 AM.
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12-10-2012, 09:25 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 1,007
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I've used both manual and electric, either was biasing Van's spring. (Trim tab vs. spring is a different issue.) I'm sticking with electric for only two reasons. First, the manual lever of the Van's installation is a real PITA for groping between the seat cushions to find and move it. Second, Van's manual set-up relies on friction to keep the position; the spring pulls on that end, too, so eventually it creeps out of position. There's a friction adjustment, but getting to it to compensate for nylon oozing over time requires removing the seat pans.
John Siebold
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12-26-2012, 05:42 PM
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Morrison, CO
Posts: 372
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Aileron trim
I can't seem to locate my drawing of the electric trim. I'm also missing the springs and whatever else attaches it all to the controls and need to order those parts. Without the drawing that's a problem. Can anyone help with that?
Thanks!
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Carl - - Morrison, CO
N16CB RV7A
Airworthiness cert issued 12/24
best X-mas present I could have hoped for!
paid 'til 10-19
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12-26-2012, 05:58 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Mahomet, Illinois
Posts: 2,195
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I REALLY like my manual trim ...
It's simple, straightforward, and works like a charm. Unlike someone said, there is no "groping" for it. It's but a few inches straight below the throttle and mixture knobs. Trimming for straight & level seldom requires more than a 1/4 turn of the knob .... usually far less. With my center-panel location for the flaps and fuel pump switches, all the controls I need in the pattern are within about 10". It is convenient, easy, and natural - even on my first two or three flights. I would go manual trim again, no question.
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Terry Ruprecht
RV-9A Tip-up; IO-320 D2A
S. James cowl/plenum
(Dues paid thru Nov '18)
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12-26-2012, 06:10 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: NC25
Posts: 3,508
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My background is Electrical Engineering.
I built my RV-6 over 15-years ago. I installed manual Aileron trim, manual, elevator trim, and manual flaps.
The manual stuff is cheaper and works well. I saw no reason to spend more money and end up with additional stuff to break.
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Gary A. Sobek
NC25 RV-6 Flying
3,400+ hours
Where is N157GS
Building RV-8 S/N: 80012
To most people, the sky is the limit.
To those who love aviation, the sky is home.
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12-26-2012, 06:18 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,768
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Ditto everything that Gary said except that aileron trim wasn't available when I built, 20 years ago. Add manual aileron trim when it became available and love it.
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Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century.
EAA Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor, Friend of the RV-1
Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>
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12-26-2012, 06:28 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 1,587
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Maybe neither
I originally installed the manual that uses springs. I don't remember an electric option at the time.
When I am hand-flying the airplane I don't notice any tendency to roll even though it is there if I let go. I change tanks every half hour. The EFIS reminds me.
When I want the airplane to fly itself I use the AP. If you are going to use the airplane for IFR don't even think of not getting an AP. If you are going to fly in Class B airspace, get at least altitude hold, but even better, a 2-axis AP. They like precision and it prevents any accidental deviations that could cause an unpleasant conversation later. When the AP is working you have more time for charts and plates, paying attention to the radio, etc.
I removed the trim mechanism. And yes, it was a PITA to find the little lever between the seats. It also would prevent you from installing an inside armrest / storage box.
Just one more option.
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H. Evan's RV-7A N17HH 240+ hours
"We can lift ourselves out of ignorance, we can find ourselves as creatures of excellence and intelligence and skill. We can be free! We can learn to fly!" -J.L. Seagull
Paid $25.00 "dues" net of PayPal cost for 2015, 2016, 2017 and 2018 (December).
This airplane is for sale: see website. my website
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12-26-2012, 06:51 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Winston-Salem, N.C.
Posts: 1,213
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Luv my electric trim
I put MAC electric elevator and aileron trim on my -4. I also have electric flaps. Everything is on the stick grip...I never have to look for a switch or take hand off stick. Just a tap of aileron trim and instant level wings. I made a simple 6" wide, 1" deep tab similar to the elevator tab that is almost undetectable at the outboard end of the l/h aileron. I can provide pics if your interested.
__________________
Bill E.
RV-4/N76WE
8A7 / Advance NC
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