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12-09-2012, 01:30 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 374
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Deburring the inside of a flange or rib
I am building the practice project that looks like a section of an aileron.
I am getting pretty good at deburring most holes, but how do you do an adequate job on the INSIDE of a flange or rib where you can't get a tool?
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12-09-2012, 01:39 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,967
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deburring bit
I know what you mean about the "inside holes." They are a pain. However, I've had good luck using the deburring bit that Cleavland sells, chucked up into a cordelss drill, with an extension if needed or my 90 deg drill if it's really tight. Be careful with the 90 though, or any pneumatic drill because they turn very fast and you can countersink if you're not careful.
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12-09-2012, 01:51 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battleground
Posts: 4,348
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Run some 400 grit sandpaper over it to knock off any burrs and call it good. There are a lot of areas in the build you just can't get a tool into.
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12-09-2012, 01:58 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: KPYM
Posts: 2,686
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Seems to me that Van says probably one of the most common errors is deburring TOO much.
I have heard that people are prone to get too aggressive and inadvertently bevel the hole.
I second the 400 grit sandpaper even for holes that aren't within a flange.
Truth be told, all you need to do is make a nice clean "cylinder".
When I deburrred large sheets, I sanded them instead of deburring each and every hole with the deburring tool. It will save GOBS of time and sanity!
 CJ
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12-09-2012, 02:06 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,967
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Sanding is good too..
because there will always be areas that get drilled after the fact that are very tight to get into. I'm more talking about pieces yet to be assembled and riveted when I mentioned tools. It's also true what they say about most people deburing too much. Light touch and a low RPM drill are key with a debur bit, but I think it does a slightly better job than sanding alone when you look at the stuff under a loop. Also you won't be scuffing any alclad off.
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12-09-2012, 02:44 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: San Rafael, CA
Posts: 101
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Check out Cogsdill tools http://www.cogsdill.com/products/deburring/. They deburr both sides of a hole without risk of countersinking. I found a whole set on that big auction site.
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12-09-2012, 06:16 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Posts: 3,932
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A Vans engineer told me they use scotchbrite pads for deburring. They just run a scotchbrite pad down the line of holes after drilling. Works the same inside and outside the rib flanges. Don't waste time with a deburring bit, you'll just end up chamfering the hole and that's not what you want.
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Rob Prior
1996 RV-6 "Tweety" C-FRBP (formerly N196RV)
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12-09-2012, 06:28 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 1,499
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Leather gloves worked very well.
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12-09-2012, 06:31 PM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Boone, Iowa
Posts: 342
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Use a reamer with light pressure and high speed to enlarge the hole and there will be very little burr. Scotch brite the back side and it's done.
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12-09-2012, 10:04 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N526JS
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I loved my Cogsdill Burraways...unfortunately, I bent the #40 size (late in the build), but they are *great* tools. a quick in and out and both sides are deburred.
I also used a pancake drill adapter in a few places, one with the threads going all the way through, so I could mount the deburring bit facing back towards the drill...then hold it up against the back side and run the drill backwards...easy as pie. Usually.
If all else failed, a little sandpaper and some finger yoga did the trick 
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Santa Clarita, CA
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