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  #1  
Old 12-05-2012, 08:25 PM
Golf Echo's Avatar
Golf Echo Golf Echo is offline
 
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Location: Prince George, BC
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Default Riveting separation

Greetings,

Hopefully I don't win a prize for dumbest first post ever, but here goes...

I've received and inventoried my empennage kit for what will someday become an RV-7. I've pondered my choices for engines and avionics, but today, my question is a little more rudimentary...



In riveting the reinforcement plates and ribs to the spar (of the practice kit) I'm getting some deformation and separation of the rib flange (see photo). I'm using the Cleaveland pneumatic squeezer to set the rivets. Is this simply an issue of inadequate clamping? I tried putting a cleco clamp near to the rivet being set, but it didn't seem to help. I'm going to drill them out and re-rivet for practice, but I figured somebody might have seen this before. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance for the help. This site has already been an enormous resource for me.
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  #2  
Old 12-05-2012, 08:53 PM
aerhed aerhed is offline
 
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Default

Tweaking that flange to fit as flat as possible will help. Even so, sometimes you get spreading like that. Lots of ways to deal with it, but try a tiny pair of needle nose vise grips (taped jaws) on each side of the hole. Tricks like that start coming natural after awhile.
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  #3  
Old 12-05-2012, 08:55 PM
aerhed aerhed is offline
 
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You oversqueezed a bit too.
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  #4  
Old 12-05-2012, 09:06 PM
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Default My suggestion is

that the parts should be "nested" together better before riveting. Try squeezing the whole assembly with your dimple dies before riveting. I did this a lot resulting in much better fit and riveting results...
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  #5  
Old 12-05-2012, 09:09 PM
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Default Rubber grommet

Put a rubber grommet over the tail before you squeeze. As the squeezer starts to "squeeze" the rubber will compress all the parts together and then the shop head will form. Works great. You can get a bunch of them at HF for cheep. Hopefully I explained that correctly.
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  #6  
Old 12-05-2012, 09:58 PM
Joe Parish Joe Parish is online now
 
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Default

Putting the rivet in the other direction may help in some instances. Although not always possible. Love the rubber grommet idea.
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  #7  
Old 12-05-2012, 10:35 PM
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Default Puckered.

That happens when the set rivet swells the hole and puckers the flange of a thin piece. Set less or reverse the rivit direction. Leave that one alone, you can only make an acceptable joint worse at this piont. the metal has been streched and won't pound compleatly flat.
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  #8  
Old 12-06-2012, 02:02 AM
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Golf Echo Golf Echo is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerhed View Post
You oversqueezed a bit too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew M View Post
That happens when the set rivet swells the hole and puckers the flange of a thin piece. Set less or reverse the rivit direction. Leave that one alone, you can only make an acceptable joint worse at this piont. the metal has been streched and won't pound compleatly flat.
Seems like over-setting a bit might be the culprit.

The strange thing is that the shop heads of both those rivets fit inside the rivet gauge. Because of that, I didn't think I was over-setting.
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  #9  
Old 12-06-2012, 02:04 AM
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Golf Echo Golf Echo is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Parish View Post
Putting the rivet in the other direction may help in some instances. Although not always possible. Love the rubber grommet idea.
In the Van's documentation, they suggest putting the factory head on the side of the thinnest piece. Makes sense to me. But, in looking at some other's photos, the factory head was on the leading side of the spar, so I did it that way. Not really sure why I didn't keep the factory head with the thin material...
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  #10  
Old 12-06-2012, 07:47 AM
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Jamie Jamie is offline
 
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This is precisely what side-grip clamps (used with cleco pliers) are used for. It will solve this problem 99% of the time.
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