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  #1  
Old 11-27-2012, 05:16 AM
10_year_plan 10_year_plan is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sydney
Posts: 8
Default Lets talk about tool choices...

I want to arm myself with the knowledge needed to pick out tools. What capacity receiver and CFM/PSI compressor did you get? was it enough for the job? too much?

Did you get a reversible air drill? Do you think you can get away without one or do you really need that switch lever?

what sort of drill RPM is best value for money? I know "higher the better" but if I get one that only spins up to 1800 rpm, am I missing out on something important?

I do want to get a DRDT-2, but I would rather put the front end on a steel frame that I make myself, is this possible?

I would like to use a pneumatic squeezer, is it okay to use an alligator one or does it have to be in line?

For the squeezers, can I make my own yokes with the right steel?

Anything on tools that helped you along in your build process that isn't common knowledge?
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  #2  
Old 11-27-2012, 06:12 AM
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dlloyd3 dlloyd3 is offline
 
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Location: Locust, NC
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It all depends on exactly what you are trying to do.
If you plan to paint, you need a larger compressor and tank. I got by with a small compressor on a 20 gallon tank. The compressor would run every 20 minutes or so while shooting wing rivets (there are a lot of wing rivets). Infrequently other than that. But every time it did run, it was loud--do not buy an oiless air compressor!
I have an air drill but used it only a few times. People swear by them but I used a 2500rpm battery drill. The air hose never got in my way and using it did not cause my compressor to run--do not buy an oiless air compressor!
The DRDT people do sell the front end only for your frame. Check their website.
Alligator is more money and will fit a few places the inline won't. A lot of airplanes have been built using hand squeezers and rivet guns.
Yep, you can make your own yokes, it is not magic.
Get the right tool for the job. Sometimes you will have to make that tool.
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  #3  
Old 11-27-2012, 07:32 AM
10_year_plan 10_year_plan is offline
 
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Location: Sydney
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I saw some second hand aligators for less than the in lines. I thought that for some reason the aligator squeezers are inferior.. Obviously not.

I do plan on painting my own aircraft, but I'm thinking of borrowing/hiring someones higher capacity compressor for the brief time that I will need the extra capacity. Would a compressor that's good for an air drill be suitable for light primer painting (corrosion proofing)?

Thank you for the help.
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  #4  
Old 11-28-2012, 08:25 AM
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clevtool clevtool is offline
 
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Location: Boone, Iowa
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ExperimentalAero.com shows the plans to build your own frame. Consider using 1/4" wall tube to limit flex.

I have been recommending for years to buy a good steel cylinder two stage oil type compressor at around 11cfm at 90psi. You only need half that for normal work, but go to the farm store and buy a larger pulley and appropriate belt to cut the speed in half. It will lump along making MUCH less noise than if you would have bought the 5cfm model. If you do want to paint, switch the pulleys back and you will have the volume. Tank size is not very important, just like a battery, the bigger it is the longer to charge and the more time between charges. Pipe the air inlet outside to get rid of about half the noise.

dlloyd3, what make and model drill did you find that turns that fast?
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  #5  
Old 11-28-2012, 08:37 AM
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Lemmingman Lemmingman is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10_year_plan View Post
Anything on tools that helped you along in your build process that isn't common knowledge?
Well, if you decide to go with a kit of tools from one of the vendors, then you might think that this is all you're going to need. This is not the case. I spent every other day of my tail build going to Lowe/Home Depot to buy one tool or another. Bench grinders, band saws, drill press, sanding stations, various files and saws....are all things that can help but are not strictly necessary.

There are items that you will get in a kit that it would be smart to buy replacements for before you need them. Through one misadventure or another I've broken the male dimple for my #40 die set twice. I now keep a spare in the shop for the next time. I also bought an extra female die that I ground down the side of so that I can dimple in tight spaces.
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  #6  
Old 11-28-2012, 12:22 PM
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Bill_H Bill_H is offline
 
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Location: Marshall TX (KASL)
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If you have not built before, strongly consider a preselected tool kit from Cleaveland or Avery for your plane. I got the Cleaveland for the RV12 VERY VERY happy with them. Now, even the folks that like Avery say to get the Cleaveland "Main Squeeze" squeezer. Great tool. I used a CORDED electric drill from Sears, variable speed up to 2500 plus. Worked GREAT and I avoided that noisy compressor. Just the thing for some holes. A battery drill will work for most others. Get a POWER SCREWDRIVER as well (that is not a drill), the kind where the handle can be positioned as either flashlight type or pistol type. A lot of basic tool questions get asked and answered in the RV12 forum because there are a lot of us first-timers there. A search there pulls up some very good advice.
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  #7  
Old 11-28-2012, 03:27 PM
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Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
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Location: North Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill_H View Post
If you have not built before, strongly consider a preselected tool kit from Cleaveland or Avery for your plane. I got the Cleaveland for the RV12 VERY VERY happy with them. Now, even the folks that like Avery say to get the Cleaveland "Main Squeeze" squeezer. Great tool. I used a CORDED electric drill from Sears, variable speed up to 2500 plus. Worked GREAT and I avoided that noisy compressor. Just the thing for some holes. A battery drill will work for most others. Get a POWER SCREWDRIVER as well (that is not a drill), the kind where the handle can be positioned as either flashlight type or pistol type. A lot of basic tool questions get asked and answered in the RV12 forum because there are a lot of us first-timers there. A search there pulls up some very good advice.
Good advice except for one item.

A corded drill is potentially deadly when building a metal airplane. Drag the cord across the edge of something sharp like the firewall and things are going to get interesting (dangerous!) very quickly! Most sheet metal shops don't allow corded hand tools, this is one reason air tools are used.
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  #8  
Old 11-29-2012, 07:02 AM
Mohammed Mohammed is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
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You would be better off with preselected tool kit from one the vendors in this website like Avery or Cleaveland. I went with Cleaveland and I am happy with their services. You could still customize the kit (this is what I did) by adding and deleting but make sure that you check the required tools list at Van's website

Since you are like me living away from US it make sense to order only the DRDT-2 front. I ordered the front only and made the frame at a local steel shop. The required drawings comes with the front part. You could order it with your kit and the tool vendor can source it for you and ship it with your tools.

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  #9  
Old 11-29-2012, 08:58 PM
diamond diamond is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Rochester, MN
Posts: 710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlloyd3 View Post
It all depends on exactly what you are trying to do.
If you plan to paint, you need a larger compressor and tank. I got by with a small compressor on a 20 gallon tank. The compressor would run every 20 minutes or so while shooting wing rivets (there are a lot of wing rivets). Infrequently other than that. But every time it did run, it was loud--do not buy an oiless air compressor!
I have an air drill but used it only a few times. People swear by them but I used a 2500rpm battery drill. The air hose never got in my way and using it did not cause my compressor to run--do not buy an oiless air compressor!
The DRDT people do sell the front end only for your frame. Check their website.
Alligator is more money and will fit a few places the inline won't. A lot of airplanes have been built using hand squeezers and rivet guns.
Yep, you can make your own yokes, it is not magic.
Get the right tool for the job. Sometimes you will have to make that tool.
Can someone elaborate on what all is involved in making a yoke? Any special type of steel required?
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  #10  
Old 11-29-2012, 10:25 PM
AEA AEA is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: so cal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Buchanan View Post
Good advice except for one item.

A corded drill is potentially deadly when building a metal airplane. Drag the cord across the edge of something sharp like the firewall and things are going to get interesting (dangerous!) very quickly! Most sheet metal shops don't allow corded hand tools, this is one reason air tools are used.
With gfi protected outlets and double insulated tools I'm not sure this as dangerous as you suggest.
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