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  #11  
Old 02-21-2012, 07:44 AM
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clevtool clevtool is offline
 
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My opinion is to use a the scotchbrite wheel whenever you can. When that is not possible use a fine toothed (mill) file to knock off the punch marks, then lightly drag the edge deburring (hook) tool down each side. Follow either method with a quick 3 passes with red scotch brite then use your fingers to feel for any imperfections.

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  #12  
Old 02-21-2012, 08:13 AM
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I edge finish pretty much everything. This debate though is where I think redoing the builders manuals will help clear up confusion. All the builders manuals make it sound like the aircraft will fall out of the sky if there is a nick that is palpable to the finger any where on the aircraft. Then when I call Vans regarding a nick in the edge they immediately refute the necessity of spending to much time fixing it. For instance, I had a couple of shipping damage nicks in my spar caps that were palpable to the finger nail. I sent a pic to Vans and they said not to worry about it (dress it mildly but don't spend a lot of time on it). They also proceeded to send me pictures of the RV-12 spar which is plasma/laser cut with sharp edges and cutting marks every 6-8 inches. He sent me those to demonstrate that the spar caps were pretty rough and needed no finishing. So the builder is left to wonder...what is to much, what is to little?
I think modernizing the build manuals with color pictures would help a lot. In defense of what they said my Cessna 172 was not edge finished or deburred at all and it is 41 years old and still going strong.
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  #13  
Old 11-17-2012, 08:39 AM
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LAMPSguy LAMPSguy is offline
 
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Default Burr on hole

One thing that has confused me a bit as well is the burr on a rivet hole. I have read multiple "sheet metal construction basics" type books and they all seem to say the same thing about construction. From what I can gather, we are going way overboard with what is considered acceptable.

Of course most people want this thing to be beautiful, but if the concern is about basic safety, the books description of acceptable rivets is pretty far off what I have been told by many builders. Many of my practice rivets do not fit the rivet gauges I have purchased, but when I take a micrometer and measure based on mil spec, they spec out as "well within specs".

Same for the hole burr. Many holes I have drilled on my practice kits have a burr I can feel, but using many different methods of deburring ends up giving me a visible chamfer before removing the burr. These books seem to have told me to remove large hanging pieces of metal and if the remaining burr doesn't leave the panels raised from one another or prevent the rivet from laying flat, good enough.

Am I all wrong?
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  #14  
Old 11-20-2012, 09:13 PM
Erik.37m Erik.37m is offline
 
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Default How are the Quick Builds done ?

I've not seen a QB so can someone tell me how much effort they put into it. Deburring is a thankless job, and it seems there is a difference in how much is appropriate. Vans must approve the parts leaving their warehouse.

Erik
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  #15  
Old 11-20-2012, 10:50 PM
Flying Scotsman Flying Scotsman is offline
 
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I was over at jdeas' shop this evening, and we were looking at the edges of the fuselage skins on his QB -7...I was looking closely at how they were finished, something I noticed on another buddy's -8 when we were building it. The edges of the skins are *really* nice, and seem to have been machined somehow to put an extremely consistent, extremely smooth "bevel" on them. I never did find out how they did that, because I would liked to have done the same on my SB -7A.

It looks very clean and professional, even under an 8X loupe. Nice work.
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  #16  
Old 11-21-2012, 08:26 AM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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A homemade tool like this can quickly and easily put a nice bevel/edge on skins before installation -



It's simply a piece of a vixen file and a piece of wood.

Pic shamelessly stolen from an EAA chapter site....

I've found you don't even need the mounting screws, some RVT type "goop" glue can be used instead.
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  #17  
Old 11-21-2012, 08:43 AM
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Hmmmmmm, I hope the tool companies that are members here are seeing this...


Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
A homemade tool like this can quickly and easily put a nice bevel/edge on skins before installation -



It's simply a piece of a vixen file and a piece of wood.

Pic shamelessly stolen from an EAA chapter site....

I've found you don't even need the mounting screws, some RVT type "goop" glue can be used instead.
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  #18  
Old 11-21-2012, 01:29 PM
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clevtool clevtool is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAMPSguy View Post
<snip> Many of my practice rivets do not fit the rivet gauges I have purchased, but when I take a micrometer and measure based on mil spec, they spec out as "well within specs". <snip>
Keep in mind that all gauges that I know have dimensions of a perfect rivet. Since that is nearly impossible you then have to compare the tolerance in each direction to what the gauge is telling you. Two sets of gauges for go/no-go would be an option, but I doubt they would get used.

Does anyone on the list have access to a laser or waterjet cutter for small batch work? We could make up a small batch of go/no-go and see if there is interest. Perhaps anodize on green and one red?
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  #19  
Old 11-21-2012, 01:35 PM
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clevtool clevtool is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FresnoR View Post
Hmmmmmm, I hope the tool companies that are members here are seeing this...
We used to sell an 12" version mounted on a wood handle. Rarely sold, I still have one in my box I use often.

http://www.simondsinternational.com/...menu=mnuPFiles
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  #20  
Old 11-21-2012, 08:48 PM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Exclamation

Quote:
Originally Posted by clevtool View Post
We used to sell an 12" version mounted on a wood handle. Rarely sold, I still have one in my box I use often.

http://www.simondsinternational.com/...menu=mnuPFiles
I made a long one - 10 or 12 inches like yours, and a shorter 3 to 4 inch one just like the previous picture.

I found the shorter one got used much more and was easier to use.
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