|
-
POSTING RULES

-
Donate yearly (please).
-
Advertise in here!
-
Today's Posts
|
Insert Pics
|

11-19-2012, 12:29 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: 8I3
Posts: 3,564
|
|
I saw the inside of the valve cover when he reamed the guide. Yes it was as clean as your engine, as far as one can tell from inside the valve cover. And yes it is a Phillips-sanctioned test, he gets the oil directly from Phillips at no cost and it is marked as a test oil not for resale, comes in plain black bottles. The test oil he gets is mixed with off-the-shelf Troparctic.
__________________
Please don't PM me! Email only!
Bob Japundza CFI A&PIA
N9187P PA-24-260B Comanche, flying
N678X F1 Rocket, under const.
N244BJ RV-6 "victim of SNF tornado" 1200+ hrs, rebuilding
N8155F C150 flying
N7925P PA-24-250 Comanche, restoring
Not a thing I own is stock.
|

11-19-2012, 01:21 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 846
|
|
camguard
Ed
would you say that Mr Cotton was right about the benzotriazole and is the phosphate to clean or is it to combate the acid build up.
|

11-19-2012, 01:52 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Scotch Plains, NJ
Posts: 28
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6 Gun
Ed
would you say that Mr Cotton was right about the benzotriazole and is the phosphate to clean or is it to combat the acid build up.
|
What did Mr Cotton say about benzotriazole? It is a copper corrosion inhibitor.
The phosphate ester is an anti-scuff/anti-wear and not a cleaner nor an acid neutralizer. As a matter of fact the phosphate ester in the Shell oils breaks down (hydrolyzes) and becomes acidic. You need a lot of benzotriazole to protect copper in the presence of this oil soluble phosphoric acid derivative.
Ed
|

11-19-2012, 02:04 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Scotch Plains, NJ
Posts: 28
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketbob
I saw the inside of the valve cover when he reamed the guide. Yes it was as clean as your engine, as far as one can tell from inside the valve cover. And yes it is a Phillips-sanctioned test, he gets the oil directly from Phillips at no cost and it is marked as a test oil not for resale, comes in plain black bottles. The test oil he gets is mixed with off-the-shelf Troparctic.
|
So you have not seen inside the crankcase, the pistons or the jugs? I would like to see the pistons out of this engine.
Did Phillips pay for the valve guide reaming on your friends engine? They should have.
Did they analyze the guide deposits? They should have (looking for ash deposits).
I would be interested how and why your friend would do this testing. Are they paying him for his engine? I find the whole thing surprising to say the least.
Ed
|

11-19-2012, 02:22 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: 8I3
Posts: 3,564
|
|
I'm sure he can explain the background of his relationship with Phillips as he's an occasional poster here. Bottom line is he is running oil with ZDDP and has had two valve guides require reaming in 800 hours which doesn't necessarily point to ash deposits as the cause since valves stick regularly on engines running nothing but aviation oil.
__________________
Please don't PM me! Email only!
Bob Japundza CFI A&PIA
N9187P PA-24-260B Comanche, flying
N678X F1 Rocket, under const.
N244BJ RV-6 "victim of SNF tornado" 1200+ hrs, rebuilding
N8155F C150 flying
N7925P PA-24-250 Comanche, restoring
Not a thing I own is stock.
|

11-19-2012, 03:58 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 118
|
|
I was surprised to read the following in the presentation.
Engine should be warmed up to operating temperature by FLYING.
That seems to go against conventional wisdom on this forum. Can you explain the reasoning for this statement?
Thanks
__________________
Todd Neidinger
RV-9 Flying
|

11-19-2012, 05:50 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Broken Arrow OK
Posts: 183
|
|
Last post got my attention also. I interpreted to mean warmed up to 180+ by flying and not short ground runs that would do more harm than good.
I also use a home-made dryer, and pump air through the oil filler neck immediately after shutting the engine down without connecting the return line on the dryer. It is amazing how much vapor pumps out of the breather line....goes on for 5 minutes. I have had my suspicions however that much of that vapor is also oil since it definitely leaves a residue on the fingers. If only I could find a way to just as easily remove the acids and other corrosive materials. I have heard only good things about Cam guard. I have no first hand experience.
|

11-19-2012, 08:31 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Scotch Plains, NJ
Posts: 28
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsneidin
I was surprised to read the following in the presentation.
Engine should be warmed up to operating temperature by FLYING.
That seems to go against conventional wisdom on this forum. Can you explain the reasoning for this statement?
Thanks
|
This is the problem with seeing my presentation without me to explain the points. (I did not post it)
The point I was making was to thoroughly heat up the engine/oil by flying before draining the oil. This maximizes the removal of lead bromide particles from the engine with the oil drain. Lead particles combine with varnish (from the blow-by fuel)to form lead sludge. Lead sludge can fill the prop hub or seize an oil control ring, both are expensive.
I am curious, what did you think I was talking about?
Ed
|

11-19-2012, 09:10 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Broken Arrow OK
Posts: 183
|
|
Thanks for clarification. I can see how it would be interpreted a couple of different ways? At first glance it appears to read that you should take off before the engine is warmed up. I think this is what he was referring to.
|

11-20-2012, 06:21 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Marion IA
Posts: 1,095
|
|
Cam guard question
Ed - I recently overhauled a lycoming IO-360 (200 hp). As it is now winter I needed to go with a multi grade oil. After speaking to their salespeople at Oshkosh, I decided to go with Aeroshell 15w50 from late fall to spring and Aeroshell w100+ in summer. The temperatures in Iowa can swing around a lot and I like the flexibility of the multi grade. The engine is preheated when night time temps are below 40. Oil changes are every 30-40 hours or so.
Will Camguard work with both of these oils? I use a total of 9 qts so I guess a half pint would be 5%.
Also, do you think these oils will work in my situation? Not wanting to start an engine oil flame war, but I'd love to hear what oil you'd use if you were me. You are clearly a lubrication expert with great knowledge and I'd like to benefit from that,
Thanks for any info you can share,
Dave Geibble
__________________
Dave Gribble VAF #232
Building RV-9A N149DG (slider, IO-320, IFR)
Restored and Flying Beech Super III N3698Q
Marion IA
Struggling with fiberglass
There is no sport equal to that which aviators enjoy while being carried through the air on great white wings." Wilbur Wright, 1905
|
| Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:39 AM.
|