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  #1  
Old 11-11-2012, 09:12 AM
agirard7a's Avatar
agirard7a agirard7a is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Newport, RI
Posts: 740
Default Red Cube mounting solution?

Per recommendation of the manufacturer, the cube is to be mounted downstream from all pumps. I came up with this mounting solution which seems it should work. Please feel free to comment if anyone sees potential problems here. This is mounted on an 0320 carbureted standard Vans cable attach bracket. I built my own hoses and have yet to fire sleeve.



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  #2  
Old 11-11-2012, 09:55 AM
mtnflyer mtnflyer is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: granby co
Posts: 180
Default From an old country farmer

While ferrying an RV 7 from TX up to Denver, all the bell and whistles went off when a fuel line broke inside the AN fitting on the fuel servo. It was mounted much like yours.. One mans opinion, never mount a sensor or transducer on the engine, there is just to much vibration. In the ancient past, a couple of years ago, it was recommend that you mount the fuel flow transducer on the firewall with a couple of inches of straight flow before and after. Dave
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  #3  
Old 11-11-2012, 10:39 AM
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Jeff A Jeff A is offline
 
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Location: Dallas, TX
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Default

While I don't see any issues with the mount itself, I'd recommend two things. Replace the aluminum AN fittings with steel, and send those lines to Bonaco and have them duplicate the length with braided stainless lines.
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  #4  
Old 11-11-2012, 10:42 AM
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agirard7a agirard7a is offline
 
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Location: Newport, RI
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Arrow Mounting?

Dave, thanks for that response. I purposely mounted
In this fashion thinking if it was mounted on the fire
wall, there would be greater movement of the outgoing line
From the cube to the carb due to the static mounting on the FW.

However, I need to listen to experience.
My thinking is that although there is fibration when mounted
To the engine, the Cube and lines would all be as one. I also am
influenced by past posting on this issue.

I will speak to the manuf. of the red cube and get their
opinion on this. I will be sure to post as others are dealing
with this issue. Again thank you.
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  #5  
Old 11-11-2012, 10:55 AM
Rupester Rupester is offline
 
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Location: Mahomet, Illinois
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Default

I think that tight end radius on the one side will put significant lateral stress on the AN fittings ...enough to be a concern. As others said, steel would be better.
The EII/red cube people told me that it needs to be mounted with flex lines on both sides (which you have). When I questioned if they meant that requirement for cubes piped to the engine (because of vibration), they said no ...regardless of location. That seems to fly in the face of hundreds of RVs that have the red cube hard piped on the cabin floor ahead of the FI pump/filter without leaks or troubles.
My experience with EII was not good; I came away with zero confidence in what they told me for a number of reasons. FWIW.
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  #6  
Old 11-11-2012, 11:05 AM
RV Jerry RV Jerry is offline
 
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Location: Chino, CA
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The perfered way is to have approx. 4" straight inlet and outlet on cube bends near cube create turbulance and create eronius readings also steel fittings would be perfered.
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  #7  
Old 11-11-2012, 11:11 AM
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Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
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Default

I especially agree with the steel fittings replacement, I recommend steel fittings on all FWF lines personally. Tight bend radius and short line are also not the best arrangement (the short line acts like a rigid line with virtually no flex).

Another point from a maintenance stand point, cleaning the inlet screen on the carb with your setup will require removing the "cube" to get the short line off the inlet fitting. I'd be cussing you at annual for not thinking about maintenance.
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  #8  
Old 11-11-2012, 11:19 AM
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agirard7a agirard7a is offline
 
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Location: Newport, RI
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Default Bit of a conundrum.

Great input. Thanks to all. It would be great to have a straight
Run in and out and understand the need. However with the limited
Locations to mount this thing I am not sure at this point how to accomplish this.

I will for sure change out to steel fittings. However, I have some very
intersting feed back about the stainless lines. Apparently, certified aircraft
do not use the stainless lines which my AP confirmed. The Teflon inner lining
Is more susseptable to heat and wear and have had known problems.
The hose I am using is 303 hose an apparently very dependable. Just an FYI.
Also the aircraft company that sold the hose told me the same story. He does not stock the stainless as most of his market is certified.
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  #9  
Old 11-11-2012, 11:42 AM
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agirard7a agirard7a is offline
 
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Location: Newport, RI
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Default Change of plan

After some great input from some experienced
folks. (exactly what I was hoping for). I am changing
the mounting location to the fire wall, in the process making sure there is long straight as possible long runs in and out of this thing to absorb fibration.
Using steel fittings and keeping the 303 hose. Will post pics when done.
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  #10  
Old 11-11-2012, 01:27 PM
mtnflyer mtnflyer is offline
 
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Location: granby co
Posts: 180
Default Follow up from an old country farmer

Routing for the fuel line would be, thru the fire wall then 303 to the fuel pump, 303in a large circle to red cube on the firewall then 303 again to fuel servo or carb. This has worked well on my 4 my 6 and on my 7. Dave
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