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  #11  
Old 11-09-2012, 08:05 AM
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WingedFrog WingedFrog is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txaviator View Post
Radio Shack or Frys Electronics? Or I could darn near guarantee that you could buy a micro crimper online through Mouser Electronics.

Update: yep, Mouser has them....at a whopping $324 each! Gulp!
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...bTyxQVcJFPQ%3d
Found the $324 crimper too, deemed it absurd to buy it for a total of 10 terminals to crimp, although another way to look at it is $32.40 per terminal, peanuts compared to the cost of the Rotax!
On the other hand and in the same line of thinking, at 100HP the cost per HP of a Rotax engine ain't that bad!
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Last edited by WingedFrog : 11-09-2012 at 08:09 AM. Reason: additional comment
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  #12  
Old 11-09-2012, 08:18 AM
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videobobk videobobk is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhassel View Post
Would those same people solder or crimp?
I would guess that a large part of that group might solder. Soldering is more of a problem where vibration is present. I doubt there is much inside a nine pin D-sub connector with the wires being clamped down. I used some of these on my 9A years ago and have had no problems.

Bob
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  #13  
Old 11-09-2012, 09:15 AM
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txaviator txaviator is offline
 
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Let me see if I can find one a little cheaper in price than the $324 version. If I can, I will gladly buy one- then we can rent it out amongst us -12 builders for say, $30 per plane/builder? Just an idea...
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  #14  
Old 11-09-2012, 11:51 AM
Fastglas86 Fastglas86 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Columbia, Maryland
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Default RV-12Wiring

Steinair has an open barrel crimper for about $65 that works with those tiny pins.
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  #15  
Old 11-09-2012, 01:42 PM
Rich_in_AK Rich_in_AK is offline
 
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Location: Anchorage, Alaska
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IT seems to me like some of you are just looking for ways to add time and dollars to your project ! Are you afraid you might actually have to fly it some day?

On all my planes I just soldered the wires together with shrink wrap over it. Quick and inexpensive and never had a problem. If you ever have to disconnect it ( and I never did) just cut and redo it.
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  #16  
Old 11-09-2012, 02:27 PM
BigJohn BigJohn is offline
 
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See posts 27 & 28 this thread. http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...t=92407&page=3

Not specific to tiny pins, but thoughts re: soldering.
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  #17  
Old 11-10-2012, 05:24 AM
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WingedFrog WingedFrog is offline
 
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Default Got it done!

I noticed that my regular crimper was the same width as the two tongues to be crimped so I did both crimpings in one shot. It worked. The trickiest is to strip these tiny ends and position the insulation correctly as only 1/16th of an inch need to be crimped. I'm lucky I still have good eyes at "umpty"!
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Builder's name: Jean-Pierre Bernoux
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Kit # 120395 N124BX
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Builder's Blog:http://vieilleburette.blogspot.com/
EAA 1114

Last edited by WingedFrog : 11-10-2012 at 05:25 AM. Reason: Typos
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  #18  
Old 11-10-2012, 07:21 AM
LittleJoeA LittleJoeA is offline
 
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Location: Livermore, CA
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Default small connector pins

I just bent the tabs close to the pin over with a small set of pliers and soldered. I then bent the outer tabs over the insulated part of the wire. Seems sturdy enough for me.
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  #19  
Old 11-10-2012, 10:09 AM
rgmwa rgmwa is offline
 
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I've just done these using the two smallest jaws on Steinair's SAT-18 ($31) open barrel crimper as per the instructions in Section 5. I was a bit doubtful when I looked at the size of those tiny pins, but they actually worked fine.
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  #20  
Old 11-10-2012, 06:14 PM
sandpiper sandpiper is offline
 
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I heard at EAA today that new kits from Van's come with these connections completed. Any truth to that?
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