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  #1  
Old 10-13-2012, 09:49 AM
2bolts 2bolts is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 120
Default To deburr, or not to deburr

I'm working on my tail unit, and am currently at one of the burr and edge stages.

My question is this.

The plans say to edge and 'deburr all'. I assume this includes rivet holes as I was taught on the RV Assembly course. But unless I am mis-reading/understanding my mechanics manual, it suggests not to burr holes that are going to be dimpled, such as rivet holes. My instinct is to deburr the rivet holes.

Thoughts?

Opps just noticed title should've been 'To deburr, or not to deburr'
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  #2  
Old 10-13-2012, 10:24 AM
Flying Scotsman Flying Scotsman is offline
 
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Default

Deburr everything...rivet holes, tooling holes, lightening holes, edges, notches, flanges...

In fact, a hole that is going to be dimpled is going to be stretched, which I would think would *increase* the risk of a crack if not properly deburred.
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  #3  
Old 10-13-2012, 10:31 AM
sstellarv10 sstellarv10 is offline
 
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Default

I read the very same thing back a few years ago when I started but deburred everything anyway. I never got an explanation on why it said that.
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  #4  
Old 10-13-2012, 10:34 AM
rockwoodrv9 rockwoodrv9 is offline
 
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Default

Use a reamer for the drilled holes and save a bunch of time.
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RSF40
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  #5  
Old 10-13-2012, 11:45 AM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Exclamation

Make note that deburring is NOT countersinking.

The max depth should be 10% of the metal thickness...

3.3.1 here - http://mybearhawk.com/MIL-R-47196A_MI.pdf
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  #6  
Old 10-13-2012, 12:03 PM
nineninefour nineninefour is offline
 
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Default

The deburring reduces the risk of cracking, particularly fatigue related cracks originating at stress risers. Best practice is to only dimple cleaned, deburred holes, since doing otherwise could embed bits of burr into the surrounding metal.
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  #7  
Old 10-13-2012, 12:43 PM
g zero g zero is offline
 
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Location: palm coast fl.
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Default Deburr

I keep an assortment of drill bits , long short and different diameters on the work bench for deburing holes . Wrap some masking tape around the bits so they are easy to grip without wearing out your fingers . Deburing tools with a swivel blade is great for the lightening size hole or any hole larger than a half inch. I debur everything completely smooth ,it's part of my therapy.
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  #8  
Old 10-14-2012, 07:05 AM
2bolts 2bolts is offline
 
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Default Thanks everyone

I'll deburr.

Thanks for the reamers idea Rockwoodrv9, I'll have a look at them.

Thanks az_gila for the link

And thanks to the whomever for correcting the title.
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  #9  
Old 10-14-2012, 08:48 PM
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vfrazier vfrazier is offline
 
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Default

My cousin used to work for one of the giant aerospace companies making helicopters for the military. He claims that all they did was use a chip chaser to remove the debris from the drilled sheet and then riveted them together. No deburring at all.

I didn't specifically ask him about CS or dimpled parts.

I suspect that very few spam cans ever saw a deburring operation, but I could be way off. Anyone care to chime in?

Van's mentions somewhere that a Roloc disc works well and is very fast. However, if you're gonna polish the plane, don't use it on the outside!
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  #10  
Old 10-15-2012, 10:02 AM
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longranger longranger is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockwoodrv9 View Post
Use a reamer for the drilled holes and save a bunch of time.
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RSF40
I too use reamers on pre-punched holes in assembly to acheive the final hole diameter, but I've found that doesn't negate the need for deburriing. Even reamers leave a bit of a burr, especially on the inside. One turn with a deburring bit on a speed handle usually does the trick. I only wish edges were so easy...
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