Getting started on new panel

[Brantel]

Originally Posted by N941WR

While I agree with the startup flow, using your bost pump in flight is more critical than on the ground, during startup.

Besides, having it next to your primer and ignition switches means that you will hit the wrong switch during a bumpy flight.

By moving it, your landing sequence will be:
- Taxi light
- Landing light
- Bost pump
- Flaps & Throttle as needed

Try to group things by "phase of flight".

To be honest Bill, I run it all the time. Not that it really matters but I got in this habit because of the bug in carburated RV's with VDO fuel pressure sensors where the pressure indication drops and causes false alarms. I got sick of seeing the pressure so low so I just started running the boost pump all the time. I turn it off during run-up to make sure the mechanical pump still works.

The engine has never quit even with those false low pressure indications at altitude with the boost pump off. I just can't break the habit of leaving it on all the time.

[Brantel]

Originally Posted by RV7ator

The passenger warning could use one additional sentence: "It's better."

Were you happy with the 430 as far to the right? I know the screen starts to fade before the box's left edge passes the centerline. Crowding the screens and stack left will start mangling support ribs, so it's that or leaning right a bit.

John Siebold

Haha,

I have seen those kinds of statements on other planes....

The 430W will have to suffer a little bit in order to cram it all in. Like you say, the support rib needs to go in there somewhere and it needs clearance so everything must shift. I want the Gemini as high as I can get it in the panel for backup and I have it scooted over about as far left as I can get it. I have just enough clearance for the rib in between it and the G3X screens and I have both of them close together. I am planning to only use 1/2" stack rails so that puts the radio stack just to the right of the centerline.

I will play around with my existing panel to see if that bothers me at all before cutting the order for this panel.

The thing that worries me more than that is having the radio stack under one of the tipup hinge points. Regardless of what the folks at Van's have somehow tricked themselves into believing, these things do leak water at that joint!

[Roy Thoma]

Brian,

I have two +12V outlets. One that is switched with the master and one that is always hot. The always hot outlet is handy for connecting a trickle charger (nice while the screens are on but the engine won't be). Also allows things like charging a cell phone, using a +12V pump for my air mattress, etc. without having to activate the master. From your panel, it looks like you have two batteries, so it would take some thought about which battery to connect to an always hot outlet.

My panel has radio rack side plates that extend from the panel to the subpanel and also function as the support ribs between the panel and the subpanel.

Do you have a switch for the P-MAG AND use the keystart switch to turn the P-MAG on? Is the switch for the P-MAG power so you can easily test the internal alternator? Maybe a better application for a breaker than a switch?

Regards,

[gasman]

Originally Posted by Brantel

The thing that worries me more than that is having the radio stack under one of the tipup hinge points. Regardless of what the folks at Van's have somehow tricked themselves into believing, these things do leak water at that joint!

Make a trough and a drain tube. They do this on cars with special drain needs. The Solstice trunk for example.

[Brantel]

Originally Posted by Roy Thoma

Brian,

I have two +12V outlets. One that is switched with the master and one that is always hot. The always hot outlet is handy for connecting a trickle charger (nice while the screens are on but the engine won't be). Also allows things like charging a cell phone, using a +12V pump for my air mattress, etc. without having to activate the master. From your panel, it looks like you have two batteries, so it would take some thought about which battery to connect to an always hot outlet.

My panel has radio rack side plates that extend from the panel to the subpanel and also function as the support ribs between the panel and the subpanel.

Do you have a switch for the P-MAG AND use the keystart switch to turn the P-MAG on? Is the switch for the P-MAG power so you can easily test the internal alternator? Maybe a better application for a breaker than a switch?

Regards,

The second battery will only be a small one to backup the EFIS system and the Gemini.

Good idea on the radio rack/panel support rib

The Keyswitch is for controlling the P-leads for the mag and the p-mag and of course the starter motor. The power for the p-mag is fed from the VPX. The toggle switch is the signal for the VPX. The current protection for the p-mag comes from the VPX.

Thanks for the suggestions!

[Brantel]

Originally Posted by gasman

Make a trough and a drain tube. They do this on cars with special drain needs. The Solstice trunk for example.

I am definitely going to try something like this to protect the radio stack when I rip into it. Thanks for reminding me about this way of doing it.

[shuttle]

Hi Brian,
I like the panel. Regarding the comment about guarding switches against accidental activation, using locking switches like those made by Eaton can help here.

I see you have the anti-rotation tab defined in the switch hole cut-outs. I must be missing something as I've not found how to define this in the FrontPanelExpress software.

Did you define these somehow yourself? Or did you find the definition somewhere online?

Either way, would you be able to share this info here or send it to me somehow?

Would greatly appreciate that if you could.

Thanks,
Steve

[rockwoodrv9]

Brian,
I am doing a layout for my panel now. I am using ACAD and the drawing from Vans. Im still looking at all systems, but leaning to the MGL new IEFIS. My question is about mounting the screens. When I put them where I want, they interfere with the 2 support ribs the panel mounts to. Is it possible to modify the supports or is the screen thin enough it doesn't matter? Having never seen one of the screens, Im not sure how they mount and I didn't see a side view on any of the sites.

Your panel looks great to me and there have been some great comments here that are helping me do a layout. thanks

[Brantel]

Originally Posted by shuttle

Hi Brian,
I like the panel. Regarding the comment about guarding switches against accidental activation, using locking switches like those made by Eaton can help here.

I see you have the anti-rotation tab defined in the switch hole cut-outs. I must be missing something as I've not found how to define this in the FrontPanelExpress software.

Did you define these somehow yourself? Or did you find the definition somewhere online?

Either way, would you be able to share this info here or send it to me somehow?

Would greatly appreciate that if you could.

Thanks,
Steve

Steve,

I drew them myself in Autocad by looking up the spec sheet for the switches I am using. I then save it as a DXF and import it into Panel Express. Did the same for the G3X cut outs, keyswitch etc.

I can draw em and send you the file if you want. No problem.

[Brantel]

Originally Posted by rockwoodrv9

Brian,
I am doing a layout for my panel now. I am using ACAD and the drawing from Vans. Im still looking at all systems, but leaning to the MGL new IEFIS. My question is about mounting the screens. When I put them where I want, they interfere with the 2 support ribs the panel mounts to. Is it possible to modify the supports or is the screen thin enough it doesn't matter? Having never seen one of the screens, Im not sure how they mount and I didn't see a side view on any of the sites.

Your panel looks great to me and there have been some great comments here that are helping me do a layout. thanks

These days most panels interfere with those ribs. Most of us cut them off and reposition them where needed.