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10-02-2012, 09:51 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 176
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Ribs
The extra holes should be where the main ribs are riveted to the spar. If there is a local builder in your area it might help to have them stop by and confirm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar591
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David Taylor
RV-7 N207DT
Wings
Warner Robins, GA
"The greatest mistake you can make in life is to be continually fearing you will make one. "
Elbert Hubbard
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10-02-2012, 10:18 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: SW Louisiana
Posts: 119
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Thanks guys for the help.. I am at work and I have to look at the plans on my next day off.. I am in contact with a RV8 builder that has offered to help. I'm gonna give him a call.
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10-02-2012, 10:53 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battleground
Posts: 4,348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar591
Thanks guys for the help.. I am at work and I have to look at the plans on my next day off.. I am in contact with a RV8 builder that has offered to help. I'm gonna give him a call.
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The RV8 spar have little in common with the 4, just FYI.
The RV4, 3, 6, have a piece of angle riveted to the front of the rib that get's bolted to the spar. The holes left open in the spar should for these bolts as already mentioned. The holes in the web look like a mistake, but nothing to worry about if they are in my opinion.
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Smart People do Stupid things all the time. I know, I've seen me do'em.
RV6 - Builder/Flying
Bucker Jungmann
Fiat G.46 -(restoration in progress, if I have enough life left in me)
RV1 - Proud Pilot.
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10-02-2012, 11:51 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: NC25
Posts: 3,507
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S/N
IIRC, the S/N is written with a vibrator pencil on the 1/4" part of one of the bars near the inboard mating surface. I do not remember if the writing is on the top of the top bar or on the bottom of the bottom bar.
I hate to make a judgement call, but it looks like the two off center holes in the stiffener bar may not have correct edge distance but that should not matter. IF you are concerned about the edge distance, remove the vertical bars and replace with a wider bar that gives all the holes the correct edge distance. Yes it will be work to do that but cheaper than a new spar.
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Gary A. Sobek
NC25 RV-6 Flying
3,400+ hours
Where is N157GS
Building RV-8 S/N: 80012
To most people, the sky is the limit.
To those who love aviation, the sky is home.
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10-02-2012, 01:05 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: SW Louisiana
Posts: 119
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I haven't been able to see any scribed numbers, I do know that they were purchased at the same time, and it is a matching set.. The workmanship is not perfect but I want to make sure that any unnecessary holes don't hurt the structural integrity of the spar.. I mean it does need to support 6gs and the weight of the whole airplane
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10-02-2012, 01:40 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Winston-Salem, N.C.
Posts: 1,213
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RV-4 spars
The original spar components that came in the kit have the critical holes already match drilled, so its hard to make "bad" mistakes, even when building your own spar. Phlogiston spars are simple standard spar kits that are assembled by their very experienced team, with a few additions such as anodizing. Your spar looks about normal, and I can see the builder tapered the upper and lower spar laminations, as I did. The plans give the option. The thick bar with the 2 questioned holes, are where the fuselage bulkhead attaches on either side. I doubt it will be an issue. Make sure you have the fuselage bulkhead, and just assemble it all on the shop floor to see if everything aligns. The pencil scribe part numbers can be very hard to see, especially if things have been de-burred and primed. The steel splice plates will have to be on the side of the spar and oriented in which they were match drilled at the factory.They are heat treated and fairly resiliant . You will know they are in the correct when the bolts fit through the full stack-up of all the parts. From what I can see, most all the holes look to be fairly clean (no drill chatter) and I suspect you will be fine. The missing rivets are where rib flanges bolt on, and that should all be fine. Hopefully, your inquiry to Vans will be answered favorably.
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Bill E.
RV-4/N76WE
8A7 / Advance NC
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10-02-2012, 04:09 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: SW Louisiana
Posts: 119
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Bill - Thanks for the help. I am going to assemble everything on my next day off to see if it lines up, I might pm you if I have any more questions.
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10-02-2012, 05:38 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 202
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The edge distance should be ok that is a compression member the midrilled holes are not a problem.
Regards Jerry
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Jerry Scott
Rocket II
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