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  #11  
Old 10-01-2012, 03:20 PM
truflite truflite is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 124
Default Circle cutter

Being a part time machinist, my guess is that the bit is High Speed Steel (HSS). Slowing the speed down will help, but just delays the inevitable. If the blade can be removed, and looks like a normal bit, you should be able to find a carbide bit to replace it for stainless work. Go slow as suggested above as the bit will grab and turn your stainless into scrap at high speed. Take your time and you should get a perfect hole.

303 Stainless is free machining although shallower cuts, slower speeds and feeds are required.

304 Stainless will eat carbide for breakfast if you go just a little to fast or heavy cut. And forget about tapping it by hand.

Ask me how I know.
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  #12  
Old 10-01-2012, 11:33 PM
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rv8ch rv8ch is online now
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: LSGY
Posts: 3,173
Default MSCDirect

Quote:
Originally Posted by cka357 View Post
There's tons of drill bit suppliers on the net. I use MSC for my source. They are quick to deliver. They give you a good description of the bit material and coatings when using their sort menu.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm

Search for aircraft drills.

Cleveland or Precision Twist Drill are two quality manufacturers.
The 135 degree split point really helps to prevent bit walking as well.

Chuck
Chuck, thanks for the tip on MSC Direct - I have not visited their website in a long time and I can see it's really made a lot of improvement!

Regards,
Mickey
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  #13  
Old 03-28-2013, 02:48 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,428
Default Great Tool!

I bought one of these, a Malco HC-1, from Amazon to cut the lightening holes in the wing ribs of my RV-3B. The holes were very easy to cut, with none of the danger associated with a fly-cutter.



For these holes, it was hard to clamp them down and still get a full swing of the tool. I started with this corner clamp and one more, and later added a third and removed the corner clamp - for each rib.

Since the tool rides on a pilot, when I got near the end of the cut, I had to be sure that the tool was firmly pressed against the backing wood piece to keep it from wandering. This wasn't hard and there were simply no issues at all. All 23 cuts went real easy. Yes, the RV-3B wings are symmetric - I made a practice cut before attempting the ribs.

I used a Sioux air drill and used about 95 psi. My compressor needed to recharge five times for the drilling.

The hole was slightly rough and needed cleaning up. I used a drum sander in the drill press for that, finishing off with a Scotchbrite drum in an air die grinder. A piece of 220 grit sandpaper would have done as well, been quieter and taken considerably longer. With the air die grinder going, the air compressor was on constantly, but never dropped below 100 psi. I was running about 95 to the grinder motor.

Dave

Last edited by David Paule : 03-28-2013 at 02:50 PM.
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  #14  
Old 03-28-2013, 03:34 PM
terrye terrye is online now
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 860
Default Rotabroach

Quote:
Originally Posted by aparchment View Post
Nice! I wonder how the bit would stand up to the stainless firewall.
I got one of the Rotabroach kits from one of the usual tool suppliers. Sizes 5/16" to 3/4". These work excellent on the SS firewall. Also work excellent on aluminum.
http://www.hougen.com/cutters/kits/a...tter_kits.html
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  #15  
Old 08-21-2013, 10:57 AM
drb930 drb930 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 3
Default

Sweet!!!
Just what I was looking for...
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  #16  
Old 08-21-2013, 11:24 AM
John R. Graham John R. Graham is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 88
Smile

The fly cutter has always scared me. I'm going to get one of these very soon. You've gotta love the Van's community.

- John
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  #17  
Old 12-31-2013, 07:30 AM
tomhanaway tomhanaway is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 313
Default

Has anyone used this tool to cut access plates in rear of fuel tank when the tank is already built?

Wondering whether there's enough clearance for the tool to clear the skins when cutting into rear baffle.

Thanks,
Tom H.
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  #18  
Old 12-31-2013, 08:07 AM
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Ron RV8 Ron RV8 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Okanagan Valley BC, Canada
Posts: 482
Default

I have used one to cut access holes in the rear baffle. You only get part arcs however before the frame hits the flange on the baffle. I finished mine freehand with a dremel and carbide burr designed for aluminum, then a sanding drum in a drill.
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  #19  
Old 12-31-2013, 10:00 AM
mbell mbell is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 132
Default

I just sawed an inch or so off the handle of the tool.
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  #20  
Old 12-09-2016, 10:22 AM
exercise exercise is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 183
Default

Hi Guys,

I just cut my first panel using a Malco hole cutter and each hole came out perfectly. Using a cordless drill, it took about 60 seconds per hole and is completely safe. I laid the panel down on a piece of pink styrofoam board to do the cutting. My neighbor loaned the cutter to me. Turns out that he helped design this tool way back when. One third the cost of a hole punch and adjustable to just about any size hole you want.
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Last edited by exercise : 12-09-2016 at 10:27 AM.
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