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  #21  
Old 09-24-2012, 08:14 AM
David-aviator David-aviator is offline
 
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Location: Chesterfield, Missouri
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerhed View Post
Ah ha. Sideshot looks mo better. Disregard previous post.
Ah ha. Thanks for "seeing it" from my point of view.
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  #22  
Old 09-29-2012, 02:11 AM
plhamilton plhamilton is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 22
Default Dies?

Hi There,

What dies were you using before hand and how did you find the cleaveland dies?

cheers

Paul
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  #23  
Old 09-29-2012, 04:29 AM
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rbibb rbibb is offline
 
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Location: Freericksburg, VA
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Frankly I wouldn't use the pneumatic squeezer to dimple. A hand squeezer is fine and easier to control and produce good results. That and the C Frame are my tools of choice.
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  #24  
Old 09-29-2012, 04:46 AM
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chevy chevy is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Australia, QLD
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Is the any reason why you wouldn't use the pneumatic squeezer for dimpling?
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  #25  
Old 09-29-2012, 06:23 AM
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agirard7a agirard7a is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Newport, RI
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Default Dimpling

I often use the pneumatic s. for dimpling.
Especially ribs and I use clevland tank dies
For the ribs as skins tend to nest better. Use the spring backs
For the skins and have good results with flat skins.
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  #26  
Old 09-29-2012, 06:43 AM
Captain Avgas Captain Avgas is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevy View Post
Is the any reason why you wouldn't use the pneumatic squeezer for dimpling?
I have a pneumatic squeezer and it produces dimples that are OK, probably better than the DRDT-2 due to the force that the pneumatic squeezer can produce. But for a truly optimum result I switched to using an impact deep throat dimpler exclusively on my skins to ensure really deep seated rivets. I explained my reason for this in a previous post on this thread. For ribs, bulkheads and other small internal structures I find that using the pneumatic squeezer is more convenient and produces a result that is adequate for the purpose.

For the record, I am attaching a photo that shows how I achieve deep throat dimpling quickly on large sheets, with a high level of consistency, and with the least inconvenience. You will see that I have a sunken recess in the centre of a large workbench that allows me to slide the deep throat dimpler backwards and forwards while keeping the bottom dimpling die level with the underside of the sheet I am working on. This ensures that the sheet is always well supported and that the action of the dies is always normal (at 90 degrees) to the sheet.


image ru
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  #27  
Old 09-29-2012, 08:45 AM
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vlittle vlittle is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Victoria, Canada
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When I coach novice builders, I see this problem a lot. It's often the adjustment of the die spacing with the pneumatic squeezer thats the problem.

Usually, however, it's the squeezer yokes themselves that are flexing. The smaller C yokes are much better at forming dimples than the larger ones. This makes a huge differece in dimple quality and urge I folks to try it.

Once a dimple is properly formed, the lead-in will be perfectly flat with a "halo" around the dimple.

Finally, if all else fails, the best system is to use the c-frame dimpler.
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  #28  
Old 01-25-2013, 07:13 PM
md_clermont md_clermont is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Clermont, FL
Posts: 14
Question Newbie Question

Taran, did you solve the problem you were having by getting different dies? My tools won't be here until next week, but I have never done any dimpling at all. I have a practice kit, but I'm wondering if I should line some other practicing up before ordering and starting on the empennage. My toolkit from Cleaveland includes the Geezer Squeezer and C-Frame Bench Riveting Tool.

-Matt
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