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  #11  
Old 09-22-2012, 10:10 AM
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agirard7a agirard7a is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Newport, RI
Posts: 705
Default Pro auto body supply?

Do you have a pro auto body shop near by?
I use a solvent cleaner/ degreaser called "Big Sky". Looks to be a combination
of chemicals. Works well. Just wipe the parts with
Paper towel. Primer is self etching primer by SEM.
Very nice stuff. Just hit the mating surfaces. No need
To hit the entire alclad surface.
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  #12  
Old 09-24-2012, 01:53 PM
vjwodack vjwodack is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Copperas Cove, TX
Posts: 11
Default don't prime

I'm with Wayne on this one. Manufacturers use ALCLAD specifically because the pure aluminum coating prevents corosion.

That being said, if the coating is scratched or damaged(ie. If your drill slips) you open up the alloy underneath the coating to corrosion.

IMHO, the only primer you need to apply is to cover up damaged spots on the coating.

Additionally, the average paint job for a single engine a/c weighs 30-40 lbs. Imagine how much extra weight priming all those interior surfaces will cost you!
Cheers!

Last edited by vjwodack : 09-24-2012 at 02:06 PM.
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  #13  
Old 09-24-2012, 08:58 PM
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aarvig aarvig is offline
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: KANE, Hugo, Minnesota
Posts: 765
Default Crazy idea but you never know...

If you want to use the nasty stuff get a big pile of parts ready for priming. Go visit a local auto body shop and inquire about renting their paint/prep booth while they are closed on the weekend. A local body guy here offered to let me paint the entire plane in his shop on the weekends for 20 bucks an hour cash as long as I brought my own gun, and cleaned up after my self.
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  #14  
Old 09-24-2012, 09:26 PM
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Andrew M Andrew M is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Secluded Lake,Alaska (AK49)
Posts: 359
Default Soap and water

I use dawn dish soap with scotch brite, water rinse and air or heat gun dry. Final wipe with clean cloth and lacquer thinner. Alumiprep cleans real good to, the waste can be treated to neutral P.H. with baking soda and put down the drain. Alodine is nasty stuff (cromates), and difficult to dispose of properly. I believe the modern epoxy primers do not require a conversion coating to stick provided the primer is applied soon after prep. I use the axon primer (green death), and as long as its clean, it sticks.
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-9 empennage
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  #15  
Old 09-25-2012, 10:43 AM
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MauleDriver MauleDriver is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Lake Ridge Aero Park - Durham NC
Posts: 199
Default

For interior priming, I'd second what Wayne and others have said, "don't prime". At least don't prime except where Vans suggests priming (very few places). Vans seems to be very conservative minimalists when it comes to priming - if they say do it, I'd do it. Otherwise, unless you will hangar next to the ocean, don't do it. Save weight and time.

For finish paint, that's a long way off. If you take it to a shop, no worries. If you do it, I'd second the PreKote approach. But washing is the least of your pollution worries if you decide to paint at home. Just about everything is toxic.

Bill
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  #16  
Old 09-27-2012, 08:14 PM
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Junglepilot Junglepilot is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Auburn, AL
Posts: 189
Default Phosphoric acid & alodine

Creature of habit and have always used following method:
  1. Wash the plane with Dawn & rinse.
  2. Dilute phosphoric acid from "aviation paint department" at big box (diluted per instructions) and wearing HD rubber gloves go over entire area with Scotchbrite & rinse well.
  3. Brush on alodine (1201- wearing HD rubber gloves) and rinse after 20 minutes or so leaving copper finish. Let dry completely, preferably overnite.
  4. Try to shoot primer within a day or so.

This applies to fuse, wings, & other outside surfaces.

Interior I used rattlecan (Rustoleum Professional primer then top coat).
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Last edited by Junglepilot : 09-27-2012 at 08:16 PM.
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  #17  
Old 09-28-2012, 08:02 AM
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Location: Peachtree City, Georgia
Posts: 440
Default

The same as Wayne & Bill; shiny Alclad. A little rattle can primer where I bugger up the Alclad. After a few years I plan on CorrosionX treatment.

John
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  #18  
Old 09-28-2012, 01:08 PM
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BSwayze BSwayze is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Molalla, Oregon
Posts: 955
Default Cleaning wars!

You really opened the can here, my friend. This is just like primer wars! I may as well throw in my 2-cents...

A lot of people use Alumiprep to clean parts before priming, but I found an excellent product from Aircraft Spruce that I've used throughout my whole project. It's called Metalprep 79. Read about it on ACS's site. It seems to be an improved product over the old alumiprep. Anyway, it has worked very well for me and I would use it again. The cleaned parts dry quickly, come out squeeky clean, and the primer adheres aggressively to the parts. It's good stuff!



And if you think the empennage parts are a big batch, wait till you do your wing ribs! I have a page on my site, right here, showing how I set up a scrubbing operation outside on a picnic table and did my wing ribs:

http://www.europa.com/~swayze/RV-7A/Wings/20070803.html

As far as run-off, all the cleaning solution was contained in the scrub bucket I used. It could be carried off somewhere appropriate for disposal when you're finished.
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Last edited by BSwayze : 09-28-2012 at 01:17 PM.
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  #19  
Old 09-28-2012, 05:32 PM
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Aiki_Aviator Aiki_Aviator is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 246
Default

Just my $0.02 worth: From my site:

I have now begun the priming process and have finally chosen the paint, PPG Desoto EAP-12 and Desoprime 7502 (2-pack epoxy).

The main reaon for the choice is the 'relatively' more environmentally friendly (read: doesn't kill you) system, and it is a reasonable level of solution relative to the wash primer used on the rest of the quick build kit. Although I looked at chromates, the backyard nature of application, disposal issues, secondary ingestion issues (i.e. kicked up from the floor after turned to dust) and carcingenic nature of the chromates caused me to go the non-chromate 2-pack route.

The actual process I am following is:
1. Clean with a solvent (using Acetone)
2. Mild chemical etch (5:1 watered down AlumiPrep-33 in Garden spray bottle) Could use scotchbrite if looking little 'old'.
3. Application of EAP-12 (Boegel) adhesion promotor. (Garden spray bottle if required)
4. Application of 3 part expoxy primer.

I also purchased some equipment from overseas (UK). This was purchased from Andy at SprayGunsDireck.co.uk. Thier prices are excellent and service is good, even including the shipping costs which are good value.

Equipment purchased was:
1. Iwata air fed mask cheaper than here in Oz by x3.
2. Sata Minijet 4 spray gun with 1.2 SR
3. Disposable paint cup system (50 small and 50 medium)
4. Disposable gloves and paint suits (x3)

I have already noticed that although the fumes are not significantly dangerous, they are not particularly perfumed..... The face mask has come in very handy.
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  #20  
Old 09-28-2012, 06:53 PM
localizer localizer is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 50
Default

Wow! I did not think this was going to envoke so many replies! I'm so glad I asked - it is very educational for me to read all this.
I think I'm going with PreKote and with doing only mating parts. I like what is said about PreKote and also less time and weight.
Well, I'm still busy with preparing my workshop.. Not a single rivet yet
Yuri
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