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  #1  
Old 09-22-2012, 02:07 PM
Michael Burbidge Michael Burbidge is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sammamish, WA
Posts: 698
Default How does my starter cable routing look?

I'm just beginning work routing and securing wires forward of the firewall. One of the first wires I secured was the starter cable from the starter contactor to the starter. I wanted to get some feedback on whether the way I've secured and routed it is appropriate. Here are some pictures.

Beginning with the contactor which is in the standard position.



I route it straight from the contactor to the engine mount on the lower opposite side of the engine.



From there the wire takes a gentle half loop and is attached further up to the next engine mount support bar.



Then it goes inside the intake manifold pipes and the exhaust pipes up to the middle-side sump bolt.





Finally it goes from the middle sump bolt to the starter.



Each of these hops is about 10 inches long. The last hop is more like 8. The cables are the welding-type cables from B&C.

What do yo think?

Thanks,
Michael-
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RV-14A Wings
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Last edited by Michael Burbidge : 01-22-2015 at 09:30 AM.
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  #2  
Old 09-22-2012, 02:40 PM
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RV6_flyer RV6_flyer is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: NC25
Posts: 3,763
Default

Very clean and professional installation. Looks almost like a certificated airplane.

Someone is likely to say to put a "boot" over the connections to prevent shorts in case something falls on it. I have no problem with it as it is as this is an intermittent circuit that does not continuously have power applied to it.

IF you want an award winning airplane, the boots will get you extra points.

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  #3  
Old 09-22-2012, 02:43 PM
NYTOM NYTOM is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Posts: 1,188
Wink Thanks for the guide

Michael for what it's worth I going to use your photo's as a guide when I wire mine. Looks great!
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  #4  
Old 09-22-2012, 05:25 PM
Michael Burbidge Michael Burbidge is offline
 
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Location: Sammamish, WA
Posts: 698
Default Have boots...

Thanks. I do have the boots and plan on using them for the final install.

Michael-
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  #5  
Old 09-22-2012, 07:47 PM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RV6_flyer View Post
Very clean and professional installation. Looks almost like a certificated airplane.

Someone is likely to say to put a "boot" over the connections to prevent shorts in case something falls on it. I have no problem with it as it is as this is an intermittent circuit that does not continuously have power applied to it.

IF you want an award winning airplane, the boots will get you extra points.

EAA TC
FAA A&P
FAA DAR
A "standard" boot at the starter end is going to look tacky because of the 90 degree terminal at that end...

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  #6  
Old 09-22-2012, 10:39 PM
Wayne Gillispie Wayne Gillispie is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 1,499
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I installed a flat ss standoff at sump bolts then installed #2 ga starter cable on bottom and alternator 6 ga on top.

Soldering all of your fat cable terminals will provide better connections.

Mark and remove oil drain back tube clamps to trim off excess then smooth edges. Saves weight and makes working around those areas easier/safer down the road. Retighten these after 10 flight hours.

Keep truckin, not much longer.
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  #7  
Old 09-23-2012, 02:11 AM
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Rosie Rosie is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: I live in on the Rosamond Skypark (CA) and am married to Victoria (Tuppergal).
Posts: 981
Default



In your last picture, I see you have a 90deg crimp connector. My plane 'ate' (broke) two of these early on (vibration) before I changed the cable to a 'straight' crimp connector with a big loop coming in from the side. Either way, a boot is a good idea Rosie
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  #8  
Old 09-24-2012, 11:37 AM
RKellogg RKellogg is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Newark, IL
Posts: 287
Default 90 degree vs. straight terminal

Rosie has a valid point. The roll vibration will quickly fatigue the ring at the starter in bending. I'd better take another look at mine... - Roger
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  #9  
Old 09-24-2012, 12:59 PM
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rocketbob rocketbob is offline
 
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Location: 8I3
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I always want to see a service loop at both ends to allow for inevitable changes. For example, if you decided to go with a different starter down the line (lets say your starter quits in the middle of nowhere, and your only choice is to use a different one), with a service loop you have some flexibility there (pun intended.) Same goes at the contactor end. Generally there should be an adel clamp to support the loop so that vibration in the wire does not cause a premature failure of either the terminal or the bolt.
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  #10  
Old 09-24-2012, 01:44 PM
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rv8ch rv8ch is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: LSGY
Posts: 4,311
Default give blood

Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Burbidge View Post
...




...

What do yo think?
...
What's the red stuff on the drain back tubes? Is that the donation to the hose clamp gods that Wayne was referring to when he said to trim the clamps?
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