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09-21-2012, 12:12 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 50
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Washing parts before priming - practical approach?
Hello everyone,
As I'm about to start on empennage I have a myriad of questions. Here is one of them - how do you guys wash parts and dispose of the dirty liquids? The thing is that our house, and garage, where I will be building is about 100 feet away from a lake. I don't even wash cars on our driveway because I don't want any runoff to the lake...
Any suggestions how to wash with water and then with MEK or laquer thinner?
Thanks,
Yuri
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Yuri
DA40
RV-10 - build in progress
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09-21-2012, 12:16 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Big Sandy, WY
Posts: 2,567
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You can let solvents evaporate. Then it goes into your neighbors airshed instead of your watershed. That's what most of the world does.
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Actual repeat offender.
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09-21-2012, 05:33 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 860
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Washing parts before priming
First you should check the primer manufacturer's instruction sheets for the recommended products and sequence. I tried using MEK and all I got was a headache and not very clean parts.
The paint I am using recommends using Alumiprep 33 to clean and etch, followed by a water rinse, followed by Alodine 1201, followed by a water rinse, then paint when the water has been blown off or has evaporated (I usually leave it overnight).
I use two types of tanks for the Alumiprep and Alodine. For small parts I have a plastic (underbed storage) container about 2'x4'x6". When done I pour the Alumiprep and Alodine back in their bottles for the next session. For larger parts I use the box the wing parts came in lined with vapour barrier polyethylene with a drain in one corner. After use, as with the plastic containers, I drain the chemicals back into their bottles
You're probably referring to the water rinses and does this contaminate the ground water/creek/lake. I live next to a ditch that empties into a fish bearing river. I haven't tested the water in the ditch to see if any chemicals are present in it, but I suspect not. I believe the chemicals evaporate before doing so, but you'll have to let your conscience be your guide or test to make sure.
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Terry Edwards
RV-9A (Fuselage)
2020/2021 VAF Contribution Sent
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09-21-2012, 06:08 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Lee's Summit, MO
Posts: 747
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Going green?
Painting and paint prep is a pain in the butt, messy and time consuming. I'm doing it but I'm not sure I would recommend it to others.
If you are concerned about water run off during the wash process, I would recommend not doing it. Blow a little rattle can primer on the mating surfaces and move on. You'll probably save about 150 hours of build time as well.
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Robert Williams
Lee's Summit, MO
RV-8 - Empennage & Wings Done
Working on Fuse
O-360-A1A
1946 Cessna 120
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09-21-2012, 07:10 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Dixon Ca
Posts: 91
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Wash befor primer
What I do is scuff real good with Scotch brite to take the shine off and give the primer a good adhesion surface, then wash with dawn dish soap and water and a good clean water rinse, let dry in the sun.
I use Acid etch primer from Napa auto parts #7020 i do believe. Very simple it works well.
No chemicals to worries about at all.
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John Cumins A & P for way to long
N864JF Reserved
Emp complete , slow build Wings Fuel Tanks Finished, ailerons, and bottom wing skins ready to rivet on. Working on Flaps
My Build log http://websites.expercraft.com/jcrv10
Home Base VCB Nut Tree
Eaa 1230 VP
VAF 2015 Dues Gladly Paid
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09-21-2012, 07:19 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 1,499
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Don't prime
Alclad parts. 90% of your plane is taken care of. Then you have saved money, time, weight, your health and the lake or air. Mine has not corroded out of the air yet.
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Good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.
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09-21-2012, 08:23 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oliver, B.C. Canada (Okanagan valley)
Posts: 786
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Alumiprep 33 and Alodine rinse water waste: For very conservative users, mix the waste water with premix
concrete/ sackcrete and pour in to plastic pail moulds. Remove from moulds after 24 hours.
Store in a dry place while the casts are curring (30 days or so).
Dispose by burying. Just one guy's thoughts.
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Lorne
RV 7a tip-up
Pre-cover MD-RA Inspected.
Canopy completed. Bonded with Sika-Flex.
Up on her mains, Firewall Fwd and wiring on going.
Last edited by lorne green : 09-21-2012 at 11:44 PM.
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09-21-2012, 11:07 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 416
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PreKote is one alternative
I've just begun building and am using PreKote instead of a chromate conversion. It is easier to use and approved by the EPA. There is a how-to video on their web site ( www.prekote.com) that supposedly is addressed exclusively toward GA aircraft, but by that they mean how to prep an entire bizjet. RV parts are easier by far.
I bought a large plastic "under bed" storage container and am using it as a wash basin. I spray the part with enough PreKote to thoroughly drench it, then scrub it to a lather with a stiff, plastic bristle household brush. Next, I scrub and scuff with a maroon Scotchbrite pad, spray on more PreKote and repeat the brush-to-lather step. Then I immediately rinse very completely with plain tap water.
All the rinse water can go straight down the drain. In fact, a clean laundry sink would make a good rinse basin, and I'll probably get one for that purpose. The usual last wipe down with MEK or other solvent is not only not required, it is strongly advised against. Just dry the part and prime ASAP.
As a caveat, I should state that I haven't yet had enough experience with it to give an impression of how well the primer adheres and holds up to abuse. I chose it based on the fact that the military and major airframe companies are using it. I would guess there are several on this forum who have extensive experience with PreKote. Maybe they'll chime in.
Good luck with your project...enjoy the journey.
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John Halcrow
Tustin, CA
RV-12 120682
Emp/TC done; Wings done; Fuse kit done
"History teaches us that men and nations behave wisely once they have exhausted all other alternatives." --Abba Eban
Paid up until Aug 2021
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09-22-2012, 06:14 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: lake charles, La.
Posts: 699
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Its prekote for me also, easy enough to use, not harsh on me or the environment and promotes excellent adhesion.
bird
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Bird
rv8 entire airframe at airport now, painting done, intersection and gear upper and lower fairings done, maybe order engine around first of year or before the next rate increase.
"to fly is a privilege that I am so thankful to God for"
http://www.mykitlog.com/tcb328/
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09-22-2012, 08:27 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 1,658
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I've always thought that if I were to build another I'd only acid etch then alodine the entire airplane.
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