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  #11  
Old 08-22-2012, 09:59 AM
LettersFromFlyoverCountry's Avatar
LettersFromFlyoverCountry LettersFromFlyoverCountry is offline
 
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Default

It's a lot harder with an "A" model. Nothing wraps around. If you drill on the front inboard side, you might miss the weldment for the gear leg tower above, but only by about 1/8" if you're lucky. A screw location further aft will put you between the spars, which ain't great access.

I GUESS people are installing nutplates on the underside of their wing root fairings to secure the inboard side but, like I say, I would like to see how they're doing this.

The problem with the Cleaveland upper fairings isn't the fit per se (they're not as wavy as the Van's ones), it's that they're too long and also they follow the rubber channel of the wing root fairing, making it difficult to get a nice flush fit with the underside of the fuselage. And, like I said, they don't compensate for the dip between the bottom of the fuselage and the bottom of the wing root fairing.

But, again, the wheel pant fairing is nice. Still, $185 is a lot of money to pay for two usable fairings.
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  #12  
Old 08-22-2012, 10:32 AM
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DanBaier DanBaier is offline
 
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Bob...

You might consider rivnuts instead of nut plates.

Dan
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  #13  
Old 08-22-2012, 10:50 AM
Bob Axsom Bob Axsom is offline
 
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Default I understand your frustration

$185 is a lot of money to pay for something that leaves you very little better off work wise than if you did it from scratch and the darn things look like sails. I can suggest three options: 1 - try to send them back for a refund; 2 - try to use the good features with extra fiberglass modifications to customise them for your needs: 3 - throw then in the sacrifice pile and build custom fairings from scratch. I sense that you are in that phase where you know something is not right but you just want to move on without another personal work project.

Good luck with your decision. If you choose to try to "roll your own" it is educational, relatively easy and satisfying. I have some photos that I can copy from my 4 volume Build Photo Album set for our RV-6A but at this point it might be inflamatory and neither of us wants that.

Bob Axsom
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  #14  
Old 08-22-2012, 03:25 PM
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LettersFromFlyoverCountry LettersFromFlyoverCountry is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Axsom View Post
I sense that you are in that phase where you know something is not right but you just want to move on without another personal work project.
I'd kind of like to roll my own... At least the upper ones. The prob is I also want to get the ship to (a) Cleveland (to fullfill the wish of my son) and (b) the East Coast (so that my mother can see the ship and she's 90...time is of the essence).

I could fly without any leg fairings or intersections but gas is $5.69 a gallon and I'm kinda cheap so I'd kind of like to have them in place for the above two trips.

I like to putter around the plane so taking on a "roll your own" doesn't bother me a bit. It's the timing that's a problem.
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  #15  
Old 08-22-2012, 04:14 PM
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GeneL GeneL is offline
 
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Default Gear legs

Bob, It was great to meet and talk to you in Mitchell, SD, I was with the Spruce Creek bunch. I was just wondering what you used to fill the gear leg fairings on your plane? My 7a gets a lot of air into the cockpit from the mains ( I always know when I am to heavy on the brakes ). Thanks in advance Gene
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  #16  
Old 08-22-2012, 04:45 PM
Bob Axsom Bob Axsom is offline
 
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Default First the fill of the strut fairings

I just filled the ends with foaming adhesive from the hardware store as directed by Tracy Saylor. Do not use that soft curing stuff they use for window sealing - it cures to the consistency of marshmallows - you want the rigid stuff. Spray (squirt?) it in the ends only, leave a cavity in the middle.





I also have an inverted "T" riveted to the inside of the strut fairing and the extended shaft is clamped to the strut with a hose clamp.



After it cured I just trimmed away the excess and it was done. I also applied RTV around all the openings in this area of the fuselage where there was a skin penetration. I use a lot of Dow 736 but for this application you can use whatever you can get from an auto parts store.

Bob Axsom

Last edited by Bob Axsom : 08-22-2012 at 05:04 PM.
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  #17  
Old 08-22-2012, 05:38 PM
Bob Axsom Bob Axsom is offline
 
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Default The way I made the upper fairing

I formed modeling clay to the shape I wanted right over the rubber and everything else that I wanted to cover with the fairing. Then I appied mold release wax to everything in the area.





Then I mixed my A & B parts of EZ Poxy (24 hr cure) and progressively impregnated short strips of 2" wide fiberglass cloth (yes I know they call it tape) by softly pounding it in with a sponge (small piece cut - maybe an inch wide - from a small sponge) loaded with epoxy resin and applying them to cover the area I want covered.



I always pop off the first layer and almost never have to go back to the mold on these small things. When I make a wingtip I always go back on the mold to apply the next layer.





My standard on these fairing things and even my wingtips is 3 layers of fiberglass. On the windshield molding I think I used 9 layers.



Bob Axsom

Last edited by Bob Axsom : 08-22-2012 at 10:23 PM.
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  #18  
Old 08-23-2012, 02:23 AM
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Janekom Janekom is offline
 
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Saw this only now. Guys I have sold a lot of these fairings and this is the first time I read about the uppers not fitting properly.

No matter how hard we try to make a perfect fairing, they do get disformed a bit during shipping. Slide it in position and drill the attach holes. Three to four will do. Then cleco and heat up with a heat gun and let it settle. The fit will improve.

"Looking like sails" someone commented They are made slightly bigger/longer in order for each builder to trim it back to where they personally like like it.

The best way to fit the uppers is to use plate nuts on the wing root fairing and rivnuts on the belly.

With regards to the rubber, just make a small recess in the fairing where the rubber is.

I really hopes this helps.
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Last edited by Janekom : 08-23-2012 at 03:39 AM.
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  #19  
Old 08-23-2012, 09:44 AM
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LettersFromFlyoverCountry LettersFromFlyoverCountry is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janekom View Post
With regards to the rubber, just make a small recess in the fairing where the rubber is.
I tried notching it but the portion where the fairing contacts the fuse pretty well follows the channel all the way down to about 1" from the aft edge. So I'd have to slice pretty much the whole side and then lay up glass over it to make it look decent.

I can certainly do that, but it would take a fair amount of time. And for the heck of it, I dragged the Van's ones I'd bought out of the box of old useless things, I found they fit a bit better. Of course, those need a lot of glass work too, but the difference is the "joggle" over the uneven area between the wing gap fairing and the bottom of the fuselage (at least on my plane; I might've built it wrong).



... and probably will require less work.

The lower intersection fairings, however, are no contest. I just had to move one nutplate connecting the front and back wheel pant (you can see the one that had to be moved in the following picture, it would get covered when I smoothed out some slurry), and shave off a little clearance for the inboard lower screw that holds the back half of the wheel pant in place.



I was going to go with the "screw it on and be done with it" method, but now I'm leaning toward the "screw it on, slurry the edge, and slice it on the seam" style.

I'm not going to trim the aft edge at all because I rather like the look.

By the way, in Bob's images above, it looks like he split the fairings and then bonded. Is that the preferred way? Or would it be better to bond the fairings and then split them?
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Blog: Letters From Flyover Country
RV-12iS Powerplant kit
N612EF Builder log (EAA Builder log)
Last article: "Gonna Finish This Sucker" (Kitplanes)
Waiting for the avionics kit (backordered: chip shortage)

Last edited by LettersFromFlyoverCountry : 08-23-2012 at 10:15 AM.
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  #20  
Old 08-23-2012, 10:33 AM
PaulR PaulR is offline
 
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Default Split

I don't know which is better, but I bonded mine then split them. FWIW
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