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  #1  
Old 08-22-2006, 10:58 AM
Frank Smidler Frank Smidler is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Stoughton, WI
Posts: 473
Default Plastic brake line difficulties

I've searched the archives and other sources for how to install the ferrule into the plastic brake tubing. The suggested way is to insert it, put it into near boiling water and then push against a brick wall. I have not had much luck with this.

I have tried lubing it with brake fluid, chilling it in the freezer, heating it in water and in the end the ferrule does not want to go in and seat all the way against the tube. I am about to make a clamp out of a wood block, clamp in the tube and pound it in with a plastic tipped hammer. What is the secret?
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  #2  
Old 08-22-2006, 11:54 AM
Steve Steve is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Roy, Utah
Posts: 1,141
Default

I let the brake line cook on the 120 deg. F black asphalt in front of my hangar for 15 minutes then pushed it through the ferrule using the steel hangar door as the backstop. It still took two tries.
Steve
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  #3  
Old 08-22-2006, 01:03 PM
Chickenlips Chickenlips is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 92
Default

As suggested in the previous post, heat the tubing in the coffee not the insert.... and be sure and put the ferrule in place first as the insert going in will expand the tubing enough to fix the ferrule in position.
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  #4  
Old 08-22-2006, 02:37 PM
hevansrv7a's Avatar
hevansrv7a hevansrv7a is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 1,587
Default Get a different connector

If we are talking about the plastic to brass connection at the top of the master cylinders, after too many leaks, I recommend changing to "align compress" fittings from Parker. They are size and thread compatible and have a built in squeeze insert so that all you have to do after the nut is loosly on the cylinder is push in the tubing and tighten with a 1/2" open end wrench.
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  #5  
Old 08-22-2006, 04:52 PM
chaskuss chaskuss is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: SE Florida
Posts: 1,499
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hevansrv7a
If we are talking about the plastic to brass connection at the top of the master cylinders, after too many leaks, I recommend changing to "align compress" fittings from Parker. They are size and thread compatible and have a built in squeeze insert so that all you have to do after the nut is loosly on the cylinder is push in the tubing and tighten with a 1/2" open end wrench.
I concur. However, since I have size 12E clod hoppers masquerading as feet, I chose to throw the plastic lines away and replace them with Teflon lined, SS braided hoses. My concern is that I might kick the plastic tubing.
RV-9A builder Chris Heitman, owner of Pegasus Auto Racing sells these at very attractive prices.
See

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro....asp?Product=4

Charlie Kuss
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  #6  
Old 08-27-2006, 09:32 PM
rmcgann rmcgann is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 52
Default Brass Inserts in Plastic lines

Try the following:

a. find a nail or panel pin slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the brass insert.
b. insert the nail into a block of wood so the brass insert can slip neatly over it.
c. let the plastic tube sit in VERY hot (as close to boiling as possible) water for a few minutes.
d. slip the tube over the insert on the nail. The nail and block gives plenty of support to push the tubing onto the insert.

Worked like a charm for all my brake lines.

cheers,
Ron
-10 finishing
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