Nose fork assembly

[dhmoose]

It might just be a late night brain fade, but I want to make sure I'm stacking the belville washers correctly (page 46-06) on the nose fork assembly. These cupped washers are designed to be stacked in the same direction or in opposing directions depending on what the engineer is trying to achieve. The manual simply says "to function properly, the outside perimeter of the washers must be in contact with each other". Does this mean that the washers are stacked in opposite directions (in other words, like stacking two cups with the openings facing each other)?

Again, it may just be late and I'm tired...so excuse the brain fade.

[BobTurner]

Yes. Concave side up on the lower one; concave side down on top washer.

[dhmoose]

Thanks Bob. I was confident enough to install it that way tonight, but figured I'd double check. By the way, the 26 lbs of force used to turn the nose fork sure seems like a lot. Its difficult to rotate the nose fork by hand now, but I suppose it'll turn well under a 1600 lb aircraft!

[TSwezey]

Originally Posted by dhmoose

Thanks Bob. I was confident enough to install it that way tonight, but figured I'd double check. By the way, the 26 lbs of force used to turn the nose fork sure seems like a lot. Its difficult to rotate the nose fork by hand now, but I suppose it'll turn well under a 1600 lb aircraft!

Well you can do less but you will end up replacing your wheel pant. Ask me how I know.

[BobTurner]

Many recommend going over 26 lbs rather than under, to get the cotter pin in. It will loosen in service. I've also seen a suggestion to drill a second hole, 30 deg off from the existing one, to give you more options for positions where you can get the cotter pin in.
Speaking only for myself, I went a bit on the high side, it turns okay and at 100 hrs there is no shimmy.

[dhmoose]

I was able to get the pin in when the pull measured about 28. I think I'll take that without drilling another hole. Thanks for the help!
David